unidentified components in 620 engine bay?

[stheodore10]

so i have a couple questions about some things in the bay of my 620... hope someone can help me! excuse the watermarks im too lazy to figure out what happened this time

 

 

not sure why someone blocked this off with a screw but what is it and where does it go  :confused:

 

 

 

so i cant exactly remember the conditions this happened in but when i plugged it in, it started smoking... again not sure what this is for. 4 pin connector

 

 

 

got  double whammy, id just like to know what the unit on the bottom does, it wasnt initially mounted for me. also is this spring mounted in the right fashion?

 

 

 

and last but not least, these look they were cut. if so, where do they go?

 

 

 

also if you know anything about transmissions please check out this thread for me!

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/62228-73-l16-transmission-stuck-in-reverse/

 

 

thanks in advance!

[moparvwfreak]

the 2nd pic is your choke relay. cant really tell the rest, actually i cant remember. i dont have that stuff anymore on my 620s.

[stheodore10]

is this needed?

[datzenmike]

Yes the choke relay is needed. Without it the choke stays on and you get 8 MPG.

 

First picture is the Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve. The hose with the screw probably goes to the air filter in the last picture.

 

Picture two could be the choke heater relay but is disconnected. In picture three you can see the choke (round black thing with bare wires crimped together) relay... probably doesn't work and owner found another electrical power source for it.

 

Picture three... springs to keep the carb switch below from working. The switch is to detect idle and full throttle. It's an emissions thing to turn the second set of points on and off to change the advance. 

 

Picture four is the air filter.

It should have a temperature sensor that uses a vacuum signal to open and close a gate to allow warmed air from the hot exhaust to mix with cold air in the snorkel. It tries to keep the carb air around 100 degrees for better running and economy. It's best feature is that it prevents carb icing if near zero.

It will also have a vacuum signal to an idle compensator. It's job is to open a small air bleed when under hood temps get too hot. The air bleeds into the intake and eliminated an over rich condition from the heat. 

[stheodore10]

ok so,,,

 

pic one hose goes to (which hose?) on the filter housing? 

 

not sure if we advanced on the second picture or not. seems like it needs replacing. any suggestions on where to get one? or maybe i can repair it?

 

i should remove the spring then?

 

if the screw hose connects to one of these two hoses, which i still dont know which one, where does the second hose from the housing go?

 

again thank you both very much i appreciate all the help. esp mike im so glad youre willing to lend such a helping hand to a noob  :thumbup:

[stheodore10]

excuse the double post but in waiting for a response ive found this

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E4svtCml3Us/T-g4pbEOWCI/AAAAAAAAHbE/qVQd8gU2vS4/s640/620-051A-01.jpg

 

which begs the question where the hell is #23? but i think this answered the question about the two hoses on the housing, t fit them together into screw hose?

[datzenmike]

 

Top hose is for the warm air valve on the snorkel.

Bottom hose goes to the temp compensator.

 

Both hoses join together and connect to the intake manifold just below the carb.

 

The blue metal tube should have a hose connecting it to the flow guide valve on the inner fender.

[stheodore10]

so:

t fitting for the two small hoses coming from the bottom, then they go to the tube from my first pic?

 

and i just have to find that flow valve guide on the inner fender now...

 

also should i remove the spring on the throttle?

 

lastly, what do i do about the choke relay? are there any solutions besides finding a donor car? any site i can buy it from that i dont know about?

 

again thank you so much

[stheodore10]

help?  :blush:

[datzenmike]

Take top of air filter when the car has beed sitting over nigh and is cold. Step on gas pedal and release. The choke plate should snap closed. Start and allow to warm up for 10 min and watch and see if the choke turns off. If it does it's good enough. Someone has already found a source of power for the choke heater around the relay.

[jvb5577]

Grab a factory manual.  It will be your best buddy!

[stheodore10]

Ok will try that as soon as I get out of work, and I have two manuals but they never seem to tell me the information I need!

[datzenmike]

You need the Nissan one for your year. AKA the bible.

[jvb5577]

You need the Nissan one for your year. AKA the bible.

THIS! :thumbup:

 

The haynes and others are garbage!  They take stuff out of the Nissan factory one and compress it leaving out a lot of good information.  You may pay a little bit for it but it is well worth the investment.

[stheodore10]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291151747534

 

Is this the one I should get?

 

Also the throttle cable keeps coming out of its track due to not enough pressure... What does this mean?

[datzenmike]

That's the one! (if you have a '73)

 

Where the wire comes out of the cable... is it lined up with the throttle or does it pull to the side a bit? I think you can bent the clamp part over to get it lined up.

[stheodore10]

Just to be clear, you mean the plate that holds the end of the cable in the bay?

[datzenmike]

Yeah. Clamps the end of the cable. It should pull straight away from the carb keeping the wire in the groove. Be sure the cable is then adjusted so the carb will close properly at idle.

[stheodore10]

okay so i tried screwing with the choke plate and it literally has no pressure, not exactly sure if thats normal but it doesnt seem right