RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I bought forged pistons to push up my redline a bit but was wondering if the NISMO head gasket would be enough or should I get a copper gasket built? I know the NISMO is probably the more cost effective option, but my redline is probably around 8k. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Forged pistons won't increase your redline. Upgraded valve train components, balanced bottom end and stronger hardware (example: ARP rod bolts) are what you're wanting if you're trying to keep your engine from flying apart. Forged pistons won't hurt, but I wouldn't start with just those. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Well forged pistons tend to not have the skirts fall off them at higher rpms and temps vs cast. And valve train components will be steel valve guides, steel intake valve seats, Isky valve springs with comp retainers. I think that will be good. And bottom end will be a brand new z22 and the rods will be shot peened and have larger bolts put in . BTW what rod bolts should i use for say a 8.5K limit? ARP obviously. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 The nismo gasket is good for 10,000 rpm. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Are you using L20b rods? Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 No Z20E rods. The 6 inch rods. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 The l20b ARP hardware should work with those. I am using it on my LZ23 bottom end. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Are they different rod bolts than the standard l20 ones? I thought you had to upgrade to something like small block bolts. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 You can do that, but the ARP ones fit in the same place without having to machine anything. ARP are NOT the same as factory Nissan rod bolts(weakest link in their engines of that era). Some reading on the difference in bolts: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34831 Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Very useful thank you. And cheaper than small block bolts. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I am just nervous that the l20 bolts wont be able to handle the extra power of a stroker engine. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Its not the extra power you have to worry about, its the piston & rod weight on the rebound. RPM is the biggest factor. If you are not going to exceed 7000 Rpm the stock L20B bolts are strong enough. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 And If I am then I need small block bolts? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 You never need Chevy bolts. ARP bolts are stronger. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Well I meant small block ARP bolts. I am just trying to get the proper bolts or part number so I can take them to my machine shop so they can machine the rods properly. I want to be able to get above 8k RPM. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 In the old days, guys fit stock Chevy bolts to the L rods as SBC bolts were stronger. That was instead of ARP bolts. A Z22 cranked L20B can use the ARP bolts made for the rods. No need to use ARP bolts for Chevy with the mods that will require. As long as you are buying ARP bolts, buy the right ones. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 rod bolts ARP 202-6003 key is will your distrbutor run up to 8k w/o cutting out. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Its a matchbox so I hope so. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 matchbox only good to about 7k per my Nissan book Match box is fine just that the slop in the worm gear tooth spindal can cause it to back off on the timming. crankfire is the way to go. I had a pumps L20 and it cut out about 7k. In higher gear the motor wouldnt that hard Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I've never heard of a crank fire ignition. Care to explain more? Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Also for ignition I have a MSD box. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 crank fire is a digital trigger off the crank flywheel in most cases some guys have done soem conversion on here ussing a degreed front pulley. all newer cars use this to trigger the coil packs. Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Are there any kits for a datsun? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 any for Datsun ? There used to be look it up. I say run the matchbox and have a cam that goes to 6500-7000 call it good. otherwise get a KA area power and reliability Quote Link to comment
RTB Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Well a kit of a 510. Ive seen the fully electronic ones they sell online. Quote Link to comment
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