Anyone have source for the '85 brake booster hose? Or an A.B. valve?

[xsdg]

I'm hunting down vacuum leaks, and mine has a split.  For the larger-diameter hoses, I've found that non-pre-bent hose tends to kink, which is why I'm looking for a pre-fabbed part.  Any suggestions on how to make straight hose bend without kinking would also be helpful, because I have a source for hose of the right I.D.

 

I've called junkyards around here that have brake boosters, and they pretty unilaterally come without the hoses.  I visited the only Pick-n-Pull nearby that has a 720 and it was a diesel with a cut hose.  *sigh*.

 

Also, my A.B. Valve is bad (has a non-sealing diaphragm), so if anyone has ideas for getting that fixed up, I'm all ears.  I would happily buy another one, but haven't been able to find anything that seems like the right part.  The closest thing I've found is the "air diverter valve" thing on Rock Auto, but there's no picture, and it doesn't even show up in Beck/Arnley's online catalog.

 

 

FTR, my truck is a 1985 California 720, 2WD, Z24, base model.  I live in California, so that emissions equipment has gotta stay.

[DanielC]

Have you tried the local Nissan dealer?  I can still get some parts for a 521.  Most are special order, if available.

Almost anything would work for the brake booster hose.  Metal pipe, copper, or aluminium.  Maybe a section of pipe from the air conditioning system, of a car or truck in a junk yard.  Walk up an d down the rows of all the cars.  Maybe you get a short 90 degree piece, or whatever angle you need, and connect it with pieces of rubber hose.

[xsdg]

DanielC: you are the man.  I've got an A.B. Valve headed my way, although it cost me an arm and a leg, just like all the rest of the emissions components *sigh*.  Also, it'll take 7 business days to get here, which is past my smog deadline.

 

They also had an OEM dipstick for $20, but for that price, I'm going to see if I can't just repair the thing with some RTV.  I mean, seriously, how can a dipstick cost as much as a shock?

 

Anyway, idle is still high.  It feels like it's temperature-dependent, because it drops back down to where it's supposed to be after a minute or so at idle.  I suppose that could be related to the timing of the EGR closing.  I should disable the new one and see if my high idle goes away.

 

I got some properly large vacuum caps to cap off things like the AB valve ports.  We'll see if I can smog it with those disconnected and properly capped.  Got my fingers crossed.