Help with getting clutch system straight

[Toney]

In my 510 I have an L18 with a 5 speed, I have been trying to set up the clutch hydraulics.

 

I have a master cylinder for 620 and slave cylinder for 620.

 

The clutch does not stiffen up and the slave cylinder barely pushes out.

 

Could it be that my perhaps my transmission is out of a Z? How would I diagnose this problem? Any special codes I can look for stamped on the tranny that would tell me what my trans is out of?

Thanks, Tony

[datzenmike]

Still has air trapped in it. The 620 slave should travel about 1.18" when pedal depressed.

 

If these are new master and slave OR if the master was emptied and gat air into it, it should be bled separately.  Get a small length of brake line you don't need, about a foot long with a fitting on the end. Connect to the clutch master outlet, and bend the other end up and around and into the reservoir. Repeatedly pump the clutch pedal until all air is expelled and there are no more bubbles. 

 

Remove and re-connect the clutch hydraulic line.

 

Make sure the master does not go empty for the remainder of the bleeding.

 

Loosen the bleeder on the slave, depress clutch pedal and hold.

Tighten the bleeder and lift up on the clutch pedal.

 

Loosen the bleeder on the slave, depress clutch pedal and hold.

Tighten the bleeder and lift up on the clutch pedal.

 

Repeat the above, making sure the master reservoir does not run dry, until all bubbles are expelled from the line and only clear brake fluid is coming out.

 

Make sure bleeder is tight, master is full.

 

You are done.

 

 

 

 

 

Could it be that my perhaps my transmission is out of a Z? How would I diagnose this problem? Any special codes I can look for stamped on the tranny that would tell me what my trans is out of?
Thanks, Tony

 

 

A Z car? Then it's an Fs5W71B. Nothing really on it to tell you. About 31.5" long and a front and rear aluminum case sandwiching a 1 inch steel adapter plate between them?

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry I just read the other posts made about the same issue. So I should check the free play of the pedal?

 

 

I would bleed the system first. The 620 and the 510 masters are basically the same so it should be set close enough as is.

[Toney]

Sorry I just read the other posts made about the same issue. So I should check the free play of the pedal?

[Silky_Johnson]

 

If these are new master and slave OR if the master was emptied and gat air into it, it should be bled separately.  Get a small length of brake line you don't need, about a foot long with a fitting on the end. Connect to the clutch master outlet, and bend the other end up and around and into the reservoir. Repeatedly pump the clutch pedal until all air is expelled and there are no more bubbles. 

 

Remove and re-connect the clutch hydraulic line.

 

Mike, I have a question about this.  I somewhat recently "bench" bled a clutch master as you outlined above.  Once you disconnect the short length of brake line after bench bleeding, how do you keep the fluid from running out of the master?  I did this with the lid off, so maybe the lid keeps the reservoir under enough vacuum to keep fluid from pouring out the outlet?

[datzenmike]

Some will drip out but not much, have a rag to catch it. Get the old line on pronto. Dripping out is better than air in.

[Silky_Johnson]

That makes sense, and that's the way it happened.  I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

[Toney]

Ok thanks for the help, so far I'm making progress on building pressure, I have the freeplay set at 2.03, how far is the pushrod on slave cylinder supposed to travel?

[Toney]

Never mind I found the spec for 1.18" slave rod travel

[Toney]

I am only getting the push rod on slave cylinder about 1", what adjustments do I need to make, I've bled the clutch several times. Thanks

[datzenmike]

Check pedal play. a couple of mm will do. Just as long as there is a slight slack before the pedal begins to move the master pushrod up under the dash.

 

One inch is probably it... there is no adjustment.