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A14 Spark Plug Issues


ElephantPrint

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I have a 1976 B210, when i install the correct spark plugs it will run after about five minutes. But after those five minutes the engine cuts off. I pulled all spark plugs and all spark plugs in cylinders 1 2 3 & 4 are bent. Has anyone came across this problem, or heard of a possible solution? Should I just go ahead and rebuild the whole engine, or could it be just an easy fix?

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The Champions are exactly the same. 1976 B210 stock spec was BP5ES, but of course we all use R type now.

 

Before you start spending $, why not find out what is causing the problem? Since BPR5ES is the correct plugs, the question now is: What happedn to your engine? Does it have the correct engine? They made A14s from 1975-1982. And does it have the correct cylinder head? Some 1977-1978 heads took a different kind of spark plug.

 

Most common cause of plugs getting bent like that is:

* Incorrect plugs

* Wrong piston & cylinder head combo

* Cylinder head shaved too far

* New plugs, but gap was not set correctly

 

If the engine was running fine until you changed the plugs, I'd put the old plugs back in and see how that works. Gap them to correct spec.

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Well i put in NGK shortie spark plugs that i ordered through Jegs, it runs but now it seems like its an idle issue because it wont stay running by itself i have to keep feeding it gas with the accelerator pedal. One good thing is that they dont get bent like the BPR5ES. I still dont know why they get bent because the head has never been replaced its all original and its never been shaved down, could a worn out gasket make this happen? No signs of coolant leaks or bad cylinder compression.

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I bought the car from a mechani that bought it from a lady that was the first owner, all of her documents of when she purchased the vechicle are all still there even the tickets of everything she paid automotive shops of what they been maintaining, she took very care of this engine. When he bought it from her it had the original plugs in it, he drove put in and installed a performance exhaust and one day it decided to bend the plugs, he tried to find out what was causing it and gave up. The car sat for a year and thats when i came and purchased it from him. Now im trying to see if maybe i can figure it out or maybe a easy fix, or if not try to rebuild the motor which i was hoping to drive it and not have to do that and spend money. I will take pictures of the engine and post them up.

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When he bought it from her it had the original plugs in it, he drove put in and installed a performance exhaust and one day it decided to bend the plugs, he tried to find out what was causing it and gave up.

 

So he says. Most likely he replaced the plugs with something else that were too long. You have to agree that something hit and bent the electrodes, right? The only other thing is a foreign object in there..... and that's if it has the original motor.

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something is hitting them. and King rat said, that it's either the plugs are wrong, Which the plugs you have are the plugs i'm running in mine, of there is forging material in the combustion chamber. I HAVE seen an engine with carbon build up so bad that it would gradually bend the electrodes back until grounded out. GRANted this was a briggs, but they all run on the same four strokes, and have much the same basic parts

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Before you start spending $, why not find out what is causing the problem? Since BPR5ES is the correct plugs, the question now is: What happedn to your engine? Does it have the correct engine? They made A14s from 1975-1982. And does it have the correct cylinder head? Some 1977-1978 heads took a different kind of spark plug.

 

Good info here. How do we know there isn't a L20B swapped in there?????????????????

 

If the engine was running fine until you changed the plugs, I'd put the old plugs back in and see how that works. Gap them to correct spec.

 

Compare the old and new plugs!!!!!!!! Make and number.

 

I assume it had old plugs that worked ... did you compare them?

 

Perhaps a picture of the motor would help. Maybe it has a different one swapped before you got it..

 

 

So if the old plugs worked did you compare them to the ones you have in now?????????????????????????? They must be different!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Take and post a picture.

 

David can you tell him where to look to identify the block (A12/14/15) and the head?

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IMG_0011.jpg

 

This is the spark plug that the previous owner had bought and bent which are BPR5ES and the old plugs that were originally in before he bought it was BPR5EY. Both are supposed to work for this engine but got bent.

 

 

 

IMG_0005.jpg

 

 

IMG_0004.jpg

 

On left hand corner you can't see the I.D number but it reads A14. I've taken out all four plugs and able to see in the spark plug hole and there's no carbon build-up or foreign material inside. I've turned the engine without the spark plugs and I didn't hear anything that would bend the spark plugs. I did run the engine with NGK short reach spark plugs .460 seemed to run fine but I had to keep pushing down the accelerator pedal to keep it running but that was probably a carb issue. Right now I have the carburetor off bc i have a spare 32/36 Weber that I would like to install also, so that's why I have it off. Where would the stamp number be on the cylinder head to find out if its the right head for this A14 engine block?

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There are no stamp numbers to identify the cylinder head. You can remove the valve cover to read the two CASTING numbers

 

But it wont do any good as you dont know which of the four basic A14 types it is

 

Most important is to read the id plate in the firewall. What does it say? And the underhood sticker?

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It all looks right, and the plugs aren't damaged in any way, they're just pushed back in. can you look into the cylinders, I know I'm jumping the gun here, but I would say that piston with heavy, heavy, Heavy, carbon build up in side the combustion chamber, namely on top of the piston and that's causing your head ache. Either run a compression test, or take a peek at the tops of the piston.

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Yeah i pulled out the plugs and still i dont see any carbon build up at all not even a little. The id plate reads A14 203458 for the engine and numbers match HLB210727422 on firewall. Ive ran it with the .460 reach NGK spark plugs pulled them out and where fine. I just have to fix this carb issue first so i can really get the engine idling and running like it should and go from there again.

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Wellthen just use the plugs that work. Those id plates have more data to identify the engine but its not really important

 

To allow it to idle, both wires to the carb need to be connected and once running should show battery voltage. If the alternator is not charging correctly it won't idle correctly.

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having the check valve out and plugged off could muck with it as well. Cold air used to flow through that passage and now it's at what ever temp the engine's running at. could affect it as well, You also might want to check for a vacuum leak, and that really screws with the mix, when mine develops a leak, it all but runs.

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