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radiator conversion!! 79 620 tomeegun style


Tomeegun222

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as we speak i am putting a radiator from a 1991 toyota camry in my 79 620 a little custom mounting electric fan conversion, it was only 30 bucks almost brand new at a scrap yard even the same hoses are gonna work!!! so ill fill er up and drive it around and let you guys know what happens!!!

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i made brackets, everything bolted in nicely and looks hella clean/flush , it still got hot but im pretty sure its cause the hoses weren't pressurizing im going to double clamp them and see if they pressure up, if not i'm on a wild goose chase for some different sized on each sidee hoses

will pos a pic later today

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nah, that's not the reason. If they "weren't pressurizing" then coolant would be leaking out.

 

The most likely reason is that you need to let it cool down and top up the radiator (or air bleed it when you first fill it).

 

Other reasons you are aware of, most of important of which is improper airflow (fan mis-match, especially with electric fans, core support opening to radiator matchup, or perhaps airflow around top/sides/bottom of radiator), incorrect thermostat, gauge out of spec, sender out of spec, etc.

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What you should try is to top up the radiator. Remove the radiator cap, and put some more coolant in it. If it's already full, warm up the engine and check the actual temp (don't rely on the gauge, but use a temp gun, borrow or buy one). Maybe it's not really overheating.

 

Don't worry about the softness of the hoses. The fact that the temp gauge was reading hot tells you there is a problem. Even a non-pressurized radiator should cool the engine sufficiently (as long as coolant is not leaking out ).

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k so ill top everything off, take it for a drive i think autozone will lend me temp gun, what should it read and were do i point it?

also the inlet and outlet of the radiator are a little smaller than that of the thermostat housing but i still tightned them down that way

so that nay be why its not pressurizing sending it through the thermostat causing it to get hot?

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Good plan. The temp of the radiator and radiator hoses should read the same as your thermostat. If you have a 195-degree thermostat, the radiator should not read 205 degrees ...

 

If it reads correctly, then compare to your dash temp gauge. Dash gauge should be somewhere in-betwen H and L. It is not specified to have it read exactly at halfway.

 

Your test of "pressurizing" by squeezing the hoses is faulty. It is not a reliable method for testing. What "sends" coolant through the thermostat is the water pump. AS LONG AS YOUR COOLANT IS UP, AND NOT LEAKING, THE ENGINE SHOULD NOT RUN HOT. Pressure is not necessary to keep the engine cool. Pressure only raises the boiling point above 212 degrees. If the temp gun confirms it's running hot, look elsewhere, not at the pressure. Perhaps your used Camry radiator is partially blocked (even though it looks new) so the coolant is not flowing properly. Could be a lot of things. Maybe it is leaking. Maybe the fan is not coming on. Check it out.

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okay so before i put the new rad on i flushed the living hell out of it, stuck a water hose in it and covered the other with my hand let it build pressure then let go rann water through it for a good while theres no way its clogged, and i can see the fan is on i have it mounted between rad and grill, my water pump is fine not leaking or making noise.

i think once i actually DRIVE it instead of letting it sit and idle everything will be fine and im still gonna get that temp gun but i have to work in a couple hrs might not have time today :sleep:

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If it is overheating at idle its fair to say it going to do it while driving it. I suggest pressure checking the system. Go to auto zone and for like 12 bucks you can rent the tool to do it. You may have a pin hole leak somewhere that is impossible to see. Its the first place I would start when dealing with a cooling issue before throwing good money after bad at parts. Good Luck.

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If it is overheating at idle its fair to say it going to do it while driving it. I suggest pressure checking the system. Go to auto zone and for like 12 bucks you can rent the tool to do it. You may have a pin hole leak somewhere that is impossible to see. Its the first place I would start when dealing with a cooling issue before throwing good money after bad at parts. Good Luck.

 

That isnt necessarily true. The radiator cools the liquid inside of it from the air passing through the fins, drawing heat away. If you are moving, there is more air passing through the radiator and therefore drawing more heat away from the radiator. I can overheat at idle if my electric fans arent working because the air is standing, but once I start rolling the temps will drop because of the air passing through it.

 

If you overheat at idle and not while driving, then it would point to a fan issue.

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That isnt necessarily true. The radiator cools the liquid inside of it from the air passing through the fins, drawing heat away. If you are moving, there is more air passing through the radiator and therefore drawing more heat away from the radiator. I can overheat at idle if my electric fans arent working because the air is standing, but once I start rolling the temps will drop because of the air passing through it.

 

If you overheat at idle and not while driving, then it would point to a fan issue.

 

He said his fan is functioning which is why I said that if it s overheating at idle it will most likely do the same while driving it. . .however the bottom line is a smart guy would pressure check his cooling system - or a guy can continue to chase his tail and throw money and parts at a problem until he hopefully figures it out. Again, good luck.

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Why pressure test it? A pressure test is to find leaks, if he's not loosing coolant there is no leak. And therefore no leak to find. And even with no pressure it should cool the engine (if the coolant level is full up). I run Datsuns with the cap loose sometimes to check the flow pattern after it warms up. They don't overheat.

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