Automatic choke, anti-dieseling, throttle sw, BCDD cut out solenoid - Removed but engine runs

[ohmrchristopher]

So I am trying to make a means of my engine harness and I find that there are a lot of items removed or disconnected.

I am not sure where to start, or if I should bother at all. The truck starts, idles and runs fine, although a bit lean I can guess and that it will diesel on hot days when I turn it off.

 

Anti-dieseling solenoid has been cut, with about 4" of wire left.

Throttle switch was on the carb, but unplugged, however when I plug it in the truck runs very very rough and almost stalls at idle.

Auto choke has no wires connected, just the stud off the back. Oh and a lot of screws have been removed in/on the choke. Even if it was hooked up electrically there is so much mechanical missing I doubt it would even work..

The BCDD, I don't know, there is no cut out solenoid, but it doesnt look like the California style. Its open to atmosphere, and when I cover it with my finger the idle increase and I hear a sucking sound from little vacuum line at the front.

 

 

BCDD can be seen here w plug. What is the cylindrical thing with the wire and two vacuum lines caped? (That wire has since broken off)

 

Auto choke w/ wire going to the DIST RELAY ( I removed it because it didnt make sense) Throttle SW plugged in but not for long, and two other wires

 

 

If someone can help with any of this that would be wicked. Let me know whether I need to bother hooking any of this stuff up or just leave it be.

[ggzilla]

If the Anti-Diesel valve is unplugged, the engine will not idle. So perhaps someone modified it by removing the pin from inside the AD valve.

 

Auto-choke is run off a Relay (choke heater relay) controlled a signal from the alternator. That way it only starts heating up when the engine is actually running. If you wire it directly to IGN or coil, it's starts heating up even before the engine starts.

[ohmrchristopher]

Wont run? Or wont shut down when turned off? Is that wire SIGNAL or GND what can I try plugging it into?

 

Oh the ALT, I was wondering what that relay was about, so is that wire SIGNAL, the carb is GND and it heats up internally?

 

I Dont suppose you could throw up some pictures of your engine and its wires too?

[ggzilla]

Wont run? Or wont shut down when turned off?

If the Anti-Diesel valve is unplugged, the engine will not IDLE. It will start, run at fast idle or any RPM over about 1500 RPM.

 

If your engine idles now, don't mess with it, unless you want to fix the run-on problem (engine keeps chugging along after you turn key to OFF).

[ohmrchristopher]

It seems like its idling high? But I am not familiar with this engine so I wouldn't know. I don't care about the run-on. I usually easy out the clutch and stall it that way.

 

How about the choke? Guess it all works now so why should I bother fucking with it right?

 

What does a Webber remove, just out of curiousness?

[ggzilla]

That's right -- don't fix what ain't broken,

 

Idle for any car should be around 750 RPM when the engine is fully warm. Only race cars (or race camshafts) will use an idle over 900 RPM.

 

About the weber, a weber doesn't remove anything, it is a carburetor.

[ohmrchristopher]

I mean the Weber doesn't have the anti-diesel, auto choke and a few other things right? Its built different then the stock carb.

[ggzilla]

The better weber 32/36 have auto-choke and anti-diesel valve. The less expensive 32/36 doesn't have them.

[ohmrchristopher]

ooooo, so technically anything that is attached to the stock carb goes when the Weber comes in right? Does it use the facotry harness?

[ggzilla]

I am not sure what you are saying. If you buy a weber with anti-diesel valve, it comes with a weber AD valve. The Datsun AD valve doesn't fit it.

 

For wiring, the stock AD valve wire and Choke wire will work just fine on a weber.