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Flares for 15x10 wheels


chebetio510

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Just one for now.

 

American Racing steelies, 15X10 w/ 225/60's all around

 

6865686194_6cc4ac2d2b_b.jpg

 

 

 

I Want the rear flares such as this.. i hace pulled out the inner lip and started rolling with bat... I dont understand how i can achieve such an high arch ... any ideas?

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i don't think a fender roll will acheive that, the front is doable, but the rear is defiently done with a bat/metal tube. you can tell by the arch it is in. a fender roller will get you an even arch.

 

basically to acheive such a flare you need movement, weight and leverage. so when you get it out a bit to go more you now have to weigh the back down, and get the wheels out enough for the leverage you are wanting to acheive with a lip. you may want to get someone around you to help that has done it before or post on craigslist for help

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Thanks everybody. I'll get some more pictures this weekend after I do some more flairing, still rubs a little on hard bumps. I did the pulling with the infamous baseball bat. Still have got a ways to go...

 

It was the very last post... all one pages of it.

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Yeah, you should be able to get good results with a alum. bat or pipe... just take your time and do it right. Then once you acquire a roller you can finish it up. Youre only going to get out what you put in. You might even think about using a heat gun as well while youre working the metal with the bat.

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the video didn't get the same flare because the wheels werent the same, he cut the bottom of the fender and then pulled it out slightly... you have to do that but KEEP doing it. Looking at your truck i can tell you are going too easy on the leveraging the bat against the tire to push the flare out.

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i am going to have to go 4 inch in the rear and lower front more because im on bumpstops now...

Ordered some suspension parts. With these wheels.. very shakey when i brake.. with the titans no problems

 

Im gonna put alot more weight in the meantime and roll harder lol

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No bad info in this thread that I caught~ but a lot of holes in the good info. A lot of reference to using *A* bat/pipe~ BUT your best results will be gained (whether using a real tool or otherwise) by rolling it in increments~ i.e. progressive diameter pipes and/or angles. Best results to minimize paint flaking acheived by: 1~ a newer paint job, or one that's been well maintained (LOTS of wax~ or even oiled well in advance); 2~ performing all operations on as warm a day as possible (again a paint issue); and 3~ (last but not least) is doing it very slowly in lots of incremental stages. Not only will you minimize paint damage~ but any metal cold-formed gets work-hardened. This will lead to (more) down-the-road paint flaking, and fatigue cracking of the metal. Once completed give the inside some TLC as well~ remove flaking undercoat, prep and recoat. A little patience/effort on the frontside will save you time/$ down the road....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did all of that flaring with a bat, working the angle, using different diameter etc. and rolling the car back and forth. It's not the prettiest job but it gets the job done. Be ready for ur paint to crack like a dropped egg.

 

ever get some more pics up?

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