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Hey guys I'm going to go see a KA long block today and need to know what to look for on it, and what questions to ask...is this just a chance I have to take whether the engine is good or not? Has 150k miles. Compression isn't known but seller says it ran strong. Problem is how can one know for sure? I hate being screwed over. What do I make sure it has? For example O2 sensor? What else?

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Hey guys I'm going to go see a KA long block today and need to know what to look for on it, and what questions to ask...is this just a chance I have to take whether the engine is good or not? Has 150k miles. Compression isn't known but seller says it ran strong. Problem is how can one know for sure? I hate being screwed over. What do I make sure it has? For example O2 sensor? What else?

 

Look for oil leaks around the front cover, oil pan, front/rear seals, look for signs of oil leaking, look for signs of rusting or corrosion. If stored outside look to see that there isn't signs of water seeping inside. I'm assuming this engine is already out of the car...chances are you can still get the compression test done if you care to. You just pull the plugs and connect a battery with jumper cables to the starter to tap until you get the thing to turn over and give you readings. Oh and when you pull the plugs be sure to inspect them to gauge how bad (or good) they look like.

 

A seller will tell you anything just to get rid of it...so just be careful and cover your behind! Plus what does 'ran strong' really mean? I want to hear it ran great, it ran smooth! :P

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Take for a drive.

 

If the motor is out you have to rely totally on the seller's say so about it's condition. If it's your brother's engine or some close family member then there is less risk involved. Otherwise it's a crap shoot, isn't it. Why is the motor out of the car anyway??? If you found this motor on the side of the road what is it worth to you? Probably a $50 to $125 for a spare head/intake/injectors/block/pistons/rods/crank/CAS and manifolds.

 

If you are concerned about being ripped, pass on it now. Find one that is running.

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Engine was removed because something in the rear of the vehicle snapped...like the frame or something where it made the car inoperative. It's in a garage, doesn't seem leaky. It's being sold very cheap, $225 for long block, wiring harness, and ECU...I'm really tempted...damn it. Or I can pay 500-700 for one with lower miles and maybe running...

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Engine was removed because something in the rear of the vehicle snapped...like the frame or something where it made the car inoperative. It's in a garage, doesn't seem leaky. It's being sold very cheap, $225 for long block, wiring harness, and ECU...I'm really tempted...damn it. Or I can pay 500-700 for one with lower miles and maybe running...

 

 

Well you're going to meed a transmission so does this include the 5 speed? If so that'e not... to ... bad. Use it to convert your truck over while saving for a good low milage one... that runs!!! This way you have spare parts (ecu/wiring/motor) Make sure you get the ECU from an automatic if possible to avoid problems with the rev limiter.

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Doesn't include transmission, knocked off $100, because I don't want to use the 240sx one due to having to massage the tunnel and shorten the drive shaft...instead I will look for a early 720 nap z 5 speed...fits right in and no shortening required...so I've read.

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