thisisn8n Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 so earlier this week i found out my clutch slave cylinder was f**ked so i got a new one, slapped the sucker on, try to bleed it, but theres no change in the feel of the pedal and the rod on the slave isnt moving. So i figure... maybe the clutch master is f**ked aswell. i have an extra 40 bucks and im trying to get this done so i buy a new one. this morning i got everything put on and was going to run fluid through with the bleeder open to clear the major air bubbles(,have to wait for my buddy to get here so i can properly bleed it) after i top it off a couple times with fluid running steady, i seal the bleeder. put the cap on and pump it a few times and it feels a bit better BUT.... now theres fluid leaking from the master where it attaches to the line. its pretty tight on there... wasnt sure if this is one of those things that has to be tightened to hell, or if you need to add a little sealer around it.... or did the parts store just screw me? btw im using synthetic dot3 brake fluid. PLEASE HELP!! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I use regular dot 3 fluid. I personally never bleed them up top I just go to the slave cylinder and bleed there. With break Lines it best to have a flarenut wrenck so you can really tighten it w/o stripping the corners of the nut. if you dont have one buy one at sears(dont be cheap) maybe loosen it up and try again on putting the break line in straight. I hate doing these myself, as I always fear im going to X thread the master cylinder. NO sealer is used. if anything i put a little antiseize on the threads myself. There are 2 types of clutch maters on a 510. they mostly sell only 1 model now so you got to bent the line to the outlet from the master cyl. So its up to you to get it straight. one sign a master is bad is fluid leaking inside the car. Did you see it leaking? Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Buy a quality flare nut wrench! Not like the one Hainz has. Quote Link to comment
thisisn8n Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I use regular dot 3 fluid. I personally never bleed them up top I just go to the slave cylinder and bleed there. With break Lines it best to have a flarenut wrenck so you can really tighten it w/o stripping the corners of the nut. if you dont have one buy one at sears(dont be cheap) maybe loosen it up and try again on putting the break line in straight. I hate doing these myself, as I always fear im going to X thread the master cylinder. NO sealer is used. if anything i put a little antiseize on the threads myself. There are 2 types of clutch maters on a 510. they mostly sell only 1 model now so you got to bent the line to the outlet from the master cyl. So its up to you to get it straight. one sign a master is bad is fluid leaking inside the car. Did you see it leaking? didnt see it leaking inside. ill check in a second. i gotta go the wrench unfortunately lol but i will listen to you very experienced datsun folks. i may see if i have some non synthetic dot3 around somewhere Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I had a Bad Slave cylinder once. It would NOT leak but suck in Air. I had to bleed it every few days. Then work OK. Quote Link to comment
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