Quick Steering Box Question!!

[matwood]

Okay, I finally sourced every gasket, oil seal, and bearing in my steering box and I am putting it back together tonight.

 

What type of gear oil is to be used in the steering box? I cannot seem to find it anywhere..? Is it just 90W?

[MicroMachinery]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/18203-how-to-change-steering-box-oil-and-shifter-bushings/page__p__252355__hl__%22gear+box%22__fromsearch__1#entry252355

 

Meanwhile, back at the steering gear box oil change, I looked at my factory service manual, and it said to drain it. But that was just after the section on describing how to remove it from the truck. I kind of think you have to remove it to change the oil in it.

 

Another option, leave the steering gear in the truck.

Remove the pitman arm off the steering gear shaft. Mark where it is first

Put a pan under it to catch the oil.

 

Now follow the first three steps in the disassembly.

1, Drain the oil. (never mind, that will happen soon)

2. Loosen the sector shaft adjusting screw lock nut, and turn the adjusting screw a few turns counterclockwise.

3. Remove the four bolts holding the sector shaft cover on the gear box, and pull the sector shaft and cover off the steering gear.

 

Oil will now be running out of the big hole where the sector shaft was.

 

Reassemble it, Make sure everything is centered. Be careful to not damage the seal at the bottom of the hole where the sector shaft goes. The manual says to replace it, that may not be possible.

Tighten the adjusting screw until there is no free play in the pitman arm, work the steering gear back and forth several times, do not go hard to full lock, with out the steering linkage hooked up.

Tighten the sector screw in very small increments if there is free play, in the pitman arm.

fill it with 90 weight gear oil, about 7/10 of a pint.

Cover bolt torque, 11 to 13 ft-lbs.

Sector screw lock nut torque, 23 to 27 ft-lbs. Do not let the sector screw turn when turning the lock nut.

[datzenmike]

I would add that if just draining only lift the sector shaft enough to let the oil out or suck it out with a plunger. This is because some if not most have one or two rows of needle bearings supporting the shaft and they will fall out the 720 have two rows or 30 needle bearings. Getting them back inand holding them with grease while you slide the sector shaft in is a nightmare. The 620 may have a sleeve or bushing instead of needles, I forget.

 

If replacing a leaking lower sector shaft seal, the shaft needs to come out so the old seal can be knocked out from the top. If not leaking I would leave it. :lol: In desperation I guess a long screw could be driven into the seal from the bottom and it could be pulled with a slide hammer. Certainly a new one could be slipped on and tapped into place with a suitable piece of pipe over the sector shaft.

 

I don't know which box you are rebuilding but there is usually a C clip and washer under the seal. To get the Pittman arm off my 620 I removed the nut and washer, hammered a ball joint remover 'pickle fork' between it and the steering box housing and heated the Pittman arm with a propane torch. When smoking hot I gave a final smack and it popped off. Don't worry about the spline position. The sector and Pittman are indexed and the arm can only fit on in 4, 90 degree positions. Just set the steering aprox. in the middle and the wheels straight ahead and it has to be close.

 

 

I would also add about setting the worm assy to sector clearance that you raise both wheels and turn the steering from lock to lock checking for any stiffness. Because most of the wear is in the straight ahead position and less to the outsides, if you tighten in the center to remove play it will be too stiff when turned to the unworn areas on the outsides.

[matwood]

I have the thing completely out of my 510. I am in the process of a ground-up restomod. This steering box is VERY nice with no play but one of the bearings was mashed up from PO trying to "fix" it. I will take pictures tonight and if anyone needs insight on where to find all the seals and bearings for it, I've got you covered. haha...

 

Good guess on the 90W. :)

[datzenmike]

As long as there is no copper or brass inside GL-5 would be best.

 

NOTE they use GL-4

[matwood]

Worm gear is copper, i do believe.

[datzenmike]

News to me, it wouldn't wear very well.

 

Anyway I checked and it calls for GL-4 so there must be something in there with copper/bronze

[rcjone]

Where in the world did 'ya get the parts...? Been looking as my box is way sloppy, and yes it has been adjusted..