dbrick Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 Question for the L20 experts. I normally build the roadster EI Dizzys, but I'm building a matchbox L20 dizzy for a customer. He has an early L20, year unknown, with points. I'm planning to use a late L20 matchbox unit. The question is whether I need to get a matching pedestal for the late L20 or if the original is the same. I have an early L16SSS D411 88-1702 points distributor here as a sample of what I think is in there so I can match it up to the EI as far as orientation and mounting, as long as the pedestal and holddown clamp are the same. Detting up the guts are easy, they are all the same basically it's getting the new to match the old where the details count. Any info appreciated, I'm working outside of my usual parts here. BTW, the points SSS distributor will be available intact and in nice shape when I'm done if anyone wants one. Thanks Dave Brisco Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 I think you might lose some timing adjustment when you start to mix parts. Best to keep everything matching. Post a picture of the pedestal. I may have an extra pedestal for the L20 if yours is the wrong one. . Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 there were 2 types of matchboxes. Both have different pedastals.But one is the same as the point L20 dizzy The L16 pedastal will not work as the hole is located farther inside(tang isnt as long)and maybe clocked at a different spot also. Really the timming plate hole locations. just put motor on TDC and put the dizzy on the front cover and see where the rotor locks down at.That will be your # 1 plug wire and see if your in the middle of the timming range of the timming plate.Then you can turn the dizzy left or right to get your 10-12deg adv using a light. We will assume he has the oil spindal lined up in the 11.28 pos when its at TDC. toward the end of this I install a # of different dizzy just to show the variation, see if you can Fast Fwd it http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild Personally I would just put a Pertronix kit#1741 in the SSS L16 single point and call it good. it has the faster advance. and the guy isnt going to know a differecne in HP anyways esp if hes just running a Weber DGV. I think the Pertronix is good enough myself and had not pproplems with them. Can run the stock coil and Ballast. when grabbing a matchbox best to always grab the whole assembly as it dont matter when it comes to L motors,they all fit. The from covers are all the same. It when people grab only the dizzy and for forget the peadastal or matchng timming plate. For some reason Nissan made them different Quote Link to comment
dbrick Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Thanks for the replys, this is for a customer, I had the same suggestions, use a Crane XR-700 or pick up a complete Matchbox. He really want's one of mine, so I'm trying to get it right on the first try. I know the ROadster stuff inside and out, but the L series throws in some variables I have an L20 matchbox body and the plate from the 67 SSS distributor, but have no idea on what pedestal is in the car. Now knowing the 11-28 orientation, I'm halfway there. I'm in New Jersey and he's in California, so mistakes will be a large PITA. Quote Link to comment
lardlungs Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 I have watched this video by hainz about ten times, and love it. are there any others? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 The Crane 700 has been known to be a good sytem. Crane bought them out from Allison. But crane is no longer in Bussiness. So Im sure there is alot of them boxoes out there new still. However Pertronix is a ezer sytem to install esp on a SSS or 68-69 dizzy. It has 2 wires comming out. red to the plus side of ballast resisitor and the blk to the - side of coil. DONE look stock. The Crane 700 has a box and more wires and you need a place to mount it. if anything else find a matching matcbox on here for 50-75 dollars remove the ballast resisitor and get a MDS2 coil. B of matchbox goes to + side coil. the blk/wht wire will go to the + side coil(switchable power from keyswitch IG) C of matchbox to -side coil. done an you can run more gap due to the more powerful coil Quote Link to comment
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