sinner720st Posted April 24, 2010 Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 i believe it should look something like this when you get it installed. to the left of the red vacuum plug and to the right of the choke thingy Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2010 Thanks! I think my main concern now would be installing it correctly on the inside. Do you know how sinner? Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 no. i bought the carb new about a year ago. came with it. it never "runs on" unless shutting off at 2000rpm but thats just from inertia. did have prob once but realized my vacuum guage was unplugged wich made one big vacuum leak Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 Ok I connected the solenoid and it only trembles once sometimes. Now... How do I set up the choke? Is it supposed to stay open when off and warm. Or closed when off and warm? Ideas???? What about when cold and off? Is the choke supposed to stay closed right and or close slowly from a warm car? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 So the solenoid wire gets power at all times and gets no power when off. BUT! The choke wire gets no power at all. Something is wrong here... Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 I was looking at the wiring diagram and the heater/choke relay is connected to the resistor? I think my relay is fried... Can i connected it straight to the coil? Thanks! Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 YEAH! I decided to take apart my choke/heater relay and it was pretty rusted. I cleaned it up and brushed off all the rust. Now I get 14.5 volts on both the choke wire and the anti diesel solenoid. THANKS YALL! But still sceptically if I installed the solenoid correct... Install jet like so and screw on? Guess I am done! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 So the solenoid wire gets power at all times and gets no power when off. BUT! The choke wire gets no power at all. Something is wrong here... Idle cut is only on with the ignition. Electric choke is only on when engine running. This is to prevent the choke heating on a cold motor if it stalls while you are in getting a second coffee. If it warmed up and turned off you would have a hard time re-starting a cold motor. You could wire into the idle cut circuit if you can't get it to work. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Idle cut is only on with the ignition. Electric choke is only on when engine running. This is to prevent the choke heating on a cold motor if it stalls while you are in getting a second coffee. If it warmed up and turned off you would have a hard time re-starting a cold motor. You could wire into the idle cut circuit if you can't get it to work. Nah, I got both of them working. Still diesels though. I did all I can and I give up. :D Quote Link to comment
Datsun fan Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 L20B run on + no spark when off = You need to add fuel cut solenoid . I've done this to some Peugeot 405 and it worked awesome . Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 he just intalled the fuel cut solenoid... to engage choke i have to depress throttle bofore starting, the idle will be gigher until i touch the throttle again (didnt know if you know). i still think there could be a vacuum leak. it can come from anywhere. places that come to mind; carb to intake gasket intake to head vacuum lines brake booster vacuum advance on dizzy. (not sure about 620) heater control head (if vac opperated, my 720 is all cable) i had a vacuum leak once.. then twice where my carb bolts to the adapter plate. i found it when i put my hand on the carb to lean over and check something (the idle came down) just put some loctite on studs then reinstalled... presto.. dont throw in the towel Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Well I did have some leaks that I fixed. The fuel return line in the cab was leaking and I changed it. The vacuum advance line was burned by the manifold and replaced. Also the booster line connects to the intake, that "tube" has an extra line that need to be plugged. I'll post a video tomorrow. But I sound like a dumb ass.... Quote Link to comment
sinner720st Posted April 26, 2010 Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 i thought of this right before i fell asleep last night. when i blew my head gasket water got in #3 and #4 and i drove it home. i knew the gasket was blown had no other choice. when i pulled the head off the #3 and #4 were super f-ing clean from steam. i steam cleaned my hot spots off. no carbon buildup=no hotspots=no runon pop air filter off of warm engine set idle higher or control with hand and squirt some water in there with a spray bottle a little at a time.(dont try without somebody like datzen mike saying something here) i would imagine sea foam would do the same thing if not better. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted May 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2010 Now this solenoid is bad.... I wiggle the wire and there is a fault inside the solenoid causing my car to turn off and shit..... Quote Link to comment
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