WTB: Clutch Pedal Assembly

[xxajmoorexx]

I have most of the parts for a 5 speed swap on my wagon(Trans, Dshaft and Cross member.) So if any of you guys have a cheapo clutch pedal let me know! Thanks in advance!

[datzenmike]

You might want to get the brake peddle too. The Auto brake peddle pad is wider and the clutch peddle won't fit beside it. At least the 710 is this way so I'll bet the 510 is too. Also IIRC the gas peddle is differently placed too, but not enough to stop you from making it work.

 

You will also need the clutch master, hard line, slave cylinder, clutch arm, pilot bushing, release bearing and collar.

[xxajmoorexx]

You might want to get the brake peddle too. The Auto brake peddle pad is wider and the clutch peddle won't fit beside it. At least the 710 is this way so I'll bet the 510 is too. Also IIRC the gas peddle is differently placed too, but not enough to stop you from making it work.

 

You will also need the clutch master, hard line, slave cylinder, clutch arm, pilot bushing, release bearing and collar.

 

Also a concern of mine. I saw this picture on the interwebs so i assumed the 510 had a combined pedal assembly.

 

The hard lines i figure i can't get shipped so I'll have to fab some up or find some locally.

 

As for the other things I'll probably just go to the parts store for the little things and the trans is still on an old L16 so all the randoms are still in there.

 

If you guys also have any of the other parts let me know. I'll compare to the parts I have, I'd hate to forget something!

 

Thanks again :)

[69wagon]

Also a concern of mine. I saw this picture on the interwebs so i assumed the 510 had a combined pedal assembly.

 

The hard lines i figure i can't get shipped so I'll have to fab some up or find some locally.

 

As for the other things I'll probably just go to the parts store for the little things and the trans is still on an old L16 so all the randoms are still in there.

 

If you guys also have any of the other parts let me know. I'll compare to the parts I have, I'd hate to forget something!

 

Thanks again :)

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]Hi Im the owner of the clutch and pedal assembly I still have it ill let it go for $65 plus shipping

[qwik510]

I just converted my 1970 column shift 2 door from auto to manual. The manual brake and clutch pedals will bolt into the pedal box from the automatic so you do not need to swap the entire pedal box assembly if you don't feel like pulling the dash apart. You just need the clutch and brake pedals and the bolts that hold them in place and the pedal return springs.

 

THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE BRAKE PEDAL IS A LEFT HAND THREAD! Make sure you are loosening it it the proper direction. It is a 17mm bolt head so a 17mm socket and ratchet will remove it.

 

There is one thing to check on you current assembly. There is a bracket that is welded onto the pedal box that holds the return spring for the clutch pedal.See red box drawn on picture below.

 

 

 

My 70 dime had this bracket on the auto pedal box but my 72 did not. So if your car does not have the bracket, you will either need to swap the entire box or you need to come up with a way to attach the other end of the clutch return spring to something. The previous owner on my car used a piece of flat metal from a radio install and mounted it to something on the dash and hooked the spring onto one of the holes in it.

 

In regards to the clutch hard line:

 

Since my engine compartment was painted and the motor was installed, bending up a hard line was proving to be a difficult task. I decided to use a braided stainless steel hose that runs from the clutch master all the way down to the slave cylinder. I got this one off of eBay:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-98-240SX-S13-S14-1-piece-Stainless-Steel-clutch-line_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c102b6503QQitemZ120530363651QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2138wt_1179

 

It is advertised with a buy it now price of $40 or submit an offer. I offered $30 and my offer was accepted so the total with shipping was $38. Not as cheap as bending up a hard line but it saved me lots of time and aggravation so to me, it was worth it.

It is about 3 - 4 inches longer then needed but I was able to route it in a way that it looks fine. It is a bolt on replacement of the hard line. The quality of this hose is very good.

 

I can post up some pics if anyone wants to see them.

[datzenmike]

If your motor was an auto and you are converting to a standard there is a spacer on the end of the crankshaft that has to be removed before putting the flywheel on. Not sure if the flywheel will fit on with it in place but either way it MUST come off.

 

Also it it was an auto motor it won't have a pilot bushing in the crank end. Don't forget this.

[xxajmoorexx]

Great info guys! I'm gonna swap in a L16, manual combo that hasn't been split yet. Plus it has teh weberz ftw! Thanks again,. keep the info coming :)