What to use for clearcoat/sealer?

[Spades]

what does everyone use for clear coat or primer sealer? I am going to finish rattle canning my wagon with flat white primer, and the front half of the car I shot white looks good, I just want something so seal it. I can get rattlecan clearcoat, but I would like to find out if anyone knows a cheap product from rustoleum or krylon that can be shot with a gun.

 

a gun will make the finished product look better, but I am looking for a in-expensive sealer to keep the car from rusting out in the 2 or so years it will take me to save up the cash for new windowseals, windshield, and a professional paint job. do they make an easy to use cheap flat or satin sealer/clearcoat?

 

thanks in advance!

[72240z]

If your going to shoot the clear with a gun why not the rest? You get a better cheaper result.

 

Generally satin/semi/flat clears are more expensive then regular. They used to be outrageous when all they were used for was trim, prices have come down since the trend has sunk in but they were still up there.

 

Hot Rod Flatz is on the cheaper end at like 50 a qt then there is sherwin-will thats a lot better but like 70 a qrt.

 

The cheapest way I know to do it is to use a gloss clear, lay thick coats then wet sand it with a fine grit +1k.

[SRSANDS]

A ppg product called DP is by far the best primer/sealer in my opnion. It comes in different colors, I know flat black is DP90 and its nearly the only primer that can be applied and left in the weather. As far as clear coat I used upol and it was great stuff for a fair price.

[72240z]

I dont want to argue but just offer my knowledge.....

 

ppg dp is a good line but it needs to be top coated, rust will appear and or it will fade. The supplier said it and I saw it lol. It's also not flat its satin, there is a semi/slight gloss to it.

 

It's a good product and at a good price no doubt I agree, but if you don't top coat it expect probs at the 1.5-2.5 year mark. Going to rock it for less time then that cool I guess.

Though if your going to use just paint like acrylic enamel you can add a flattening agent like DX265

[Spades]

well, the reason I am going with rattlecan primer and basecoat is cause I already bought a crapload of primer and krylon flat white, and the front of the car looks good in it, so I will use that.

 

I have access to a gun, so I am considering a spray on clearcoat. I don't want a glossy finish or a finiky paint though, I am not good enough to be able to deal with a paint thats hard to mix. I am also trying to keep the costs down, so not sure if the product I am after even exists.

 

The car will have final bodywork and paint done by a professional when I have save enough money for the paint job and the windshield and all of the window felt and seals....considering I still have to finish the interior and final touches on the drivetrain,ect...its going to be at least a couple years realistically.

 

 

in the meantime, I want flat white, not faded red...and I dont want rustbugs under the primer...so, is there a cheap and easy spray on top coat, or should I just use satin or flat rattlecan?

[disturbio]

you know not all clears will go with all paints especially a rattle canned enamel. I like to rattle can everything, quick and cheap. I found out the hard way that clears should be the same as the primers/paints. Krylon with Krylon, Rustoleum with Rustolesum, Montana with Montana ect.

 

Before Montana offered clears I was using them cause of color selection, I was using krylon clear and it would flake off after a bit. The guy at my paint shop said different spray paints are different shtuff.... Enamel, Acrylic, even ceramic.

 

One thing you could do is have your local paint shop mix you a spray can of whatever there house brand is - Mine uses valspar, good paint, they have the house of color line.

 

 

food for thought.