cbattey224 Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 :confused: so yea i have nvr done bondo i have a truck bagged and shaved down but i didnt do the bondo or shaving on it. My 510 has a couple dents dings and rust holes. i can patch the rust holes im good with a welder. im just new to the body works. can i get all the tips and secrets to doing proper body work. and the ( DO'S and DON"TS). thanks Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 Impossible to explain here all the do's & dont's. I learned by taking 2 years of auto body class. I suggest searching for how to videos on You tube. PM me & ill fill you in on the basics :D Quote Link to comment
cbattey224 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 a couple ??s how to prep the spots that need work?? how to mix the bondo currectly?? what grit sand paper for what?? how thick do i do my layers of bondo?? where to get the tools to spred the bondo?? do i need to take off all the old paint bondo or whatever i fun into?? Quote Link to comment
steve g Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 a couple ??s how to prep the spots that need work??----------------- with a da with 40 or 80 grit to metal and leave a nice feather edge of the outer material using 180 how to mix the bondo currectly?? --------------Yikes... you will get the hang of it!, a little less hardener is better than too much what grit sand paper for what?? --------------40 or 80 to prep the area for filler, feather materials with 180, block filler with 80 them 120 and skim the entire worked area with 180, prep entire surface with 320 <---- all DA work other than the block work.... wetsand (real automotive grade paper) primer with 400 then 800 (grit varies depending on primer and paint material you will be using how thick do i do my layers of bondo?? --------------whatever it takes... too thick = pinholes where to get the tools to spred the bondo?? -----------------paint store can assist you do i need to take off all the old paint bondo or whatever i fun into??----------------- It depends... sorry i cant see the car from here............ everything i mentioned is generic... every car, situation, materials, time, money, and personal preference changes the method i listed above.... start from there and you will find what works best for you and your car. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 a couple ??s how to prep the spots that need work?? how to mix the bondo currectly?? what grit sand paper for what?? how thick do i do my layers of bondo?? where to get the tools to spred the bondo?? do i need to take off all the old paint bondo or whatever i fun into?? any area that need body filler has to be bare metal for every golfball size of body filler use 1/2 inch of hardener initial sanding of filler 60 or 80 to shape..follow up with 120, 220, 320 etc... keep the layers thin. dont try & fill a large dent w/ filler any paint supply store will carry everything you need not understanding your last ? Hope this helps a bit. Quote Link to comment
cbattey224 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 sweet guys the more tips and tricks help. I watched some vids and i think ima go for a first try at it tomarrow. Do a couple mix practices on cardboard see how it harding. So i plan on doing the body work than radle canning the whole car ( spray paint) im really broke these days. One more question, how would you go about doing this the car is red but front ends white? Should i sand the whole car to bare metal ( dont really want to) or can i fix all the body and do a light sand over the whole car then primier and paint or just go for the paint?? Thanks for all the help Quote Link to comment
steve g Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 no way to say if the paint on your is ok or not.... either way rattle can primer is not a good idea and not cheap either when you factor in its lack of fill and virtually no protection from the environment. if you can get a tiny compressor and a cheap spray gun... even a cheap quart of lacquer primer is 1000 times better than rattle can... Quote Link to comment
cbattey224 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 Haha ight ive got a big dewalt compressor. And i found an old paint gun that was from my grandpa. Dont kno if it works tho. So if i go that route do i need to sand down the whole car. The paints good just oxydized and the front is white i think was replaced one time. I just have some body work to do. So to the point do i sand the whole car to bare metal or do what i need to? Reminder im doing it all outside. So if i sand it all it will take a couple days and its moist at night kinda worried. Sorry for the speech haha Quote Link to comment
zed Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 bare metal panels outside - it's going to rust for sure. Bare metal rusts within hours - even in a dry place. Then how will you remove the rust from the metal pores? I like to work in sections - not do the whole car at once. Takes a lot of taping though. I filled a few hail dents on my truck hood with bondo a few years back - without sanding down to bare metal - that repair is still good... Quote Link to comment
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