I need help - Weber conversion on an L16 engine

[SHIFT]

I'm a total noob at this stuff so please be kind. The instructions that were included in the kit are not clear to me or specific enough. This truck is my only transportation so any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

I installed the carb best I could but it is idling high and the idle adjustment screws don't seem to do anything at all.

 

The instructions say to connect the "idle solenoid" to the electric choke but I don't know what the idle solenoid is. The only solenoid that I disconnected is what the manual calls an anti-dieseling solenoid valve. Is this the idle solenoid? If so, how does it connect to the new carb?

 

I don't know if I hooked up the correct wire to the electric choke- the choke on the old carb was busted and rigged with a manual choke cable. I found a red wire that was taped up- (it was the only wire in the vicinity and it looked like the best candidate). How do I test this wire to see if it is the correct one? How do I know if the choke is working properly?

 

I did get a Clymer shop manual, but I still can't figure some of this stuff out so I need some help. :blink:

 

 

 

 

[yello620]

Couple of things that i will suggest.

 

Unhook your throttle cable, until it is running good. This eliminates a cable that is misadjusted of not releasing all of the way.

 

Next, loosen the nut on the main throttle shaft(12mm wrench usually). Make this nut finger tight. If it overtightened it will cause the throttle shaft to stick open and not idle down.

 

Which screws are you turning to adjust your idle down?

 

With those two things done, report back to us.:D

 

The electric choke needs a 12v ignition source. Hot with key on only.

[Shonuff]

buy a test light, its less then $5 and you will use it all the time.

 

 

 

use said test light to test the wires in that harness. find one that is hot with the key on, but off with the key off.

 

 

hook that to the electric choke.

 

 

 

throw that "anti diesling solinoid" away, unless there is a boss on the carb that it can screw into (doubt it).

 

 

 

 

until you correctly hook up the choke, you will have a high idle. the choke controls the releasing of the "high idle cam". so unless the choke opens the cam cant release, so you have a artificial high idle.

 

 

 

then go back and do the "lean best idle" procedure in teh manual that came with the kit. as you have prolly F'd up the mixture and idle settings.

 

 

best of luck to ya.:D

[SHIFT]

Couple of things that i will suggest.

 

Unhook your throttle cable, until it is running good. This eliminates a cable that is misadjusted of not releasing all of the way.

 

Next, loosen the nut on the main throttle shaft(12mm wrench usually). Make this nut finger tight. If it overtightened it will cause the throttle shaft to stick open and not idle down.

 

Which screws are you turning to adjust your idle down?

 

With those two things done, report back to us.:D

 

The electric choke needs a 12v ignition source. Hot with key on only.

 

Thanks Jason. I will check all these things tomorrow in the daylight. I did tighten the nut on the throttle shaft with a wrench when I put the proper linkage piece on the carb, so that may be it.

 

I turned the idle screw and the idle mixture screw. I turned them back to where they were originally... I think.

Edited October 15, 2009 by SHIFT

[yello620]

Shonuff has a good point about the choke too. If it is stuck on the choke, that could be your high idle too.

 

Adjusting the mixture screw is not doing anything until the RPM's come down below about 900 or so.

[SHIFT]

buy a test light, its less then $5 and you will use it all the time.

 

 

 

use said test light to test the wires in that harness. find one that is hot with the key on, but off with the key off.

 

 

hook that to the electric choke.

 

 

 

throw that "anti diesling solinoid" away, unless there is a boss on the carb that it can screw into (doubt it).

 

 

 

 

until you correctly hook up the choke, you will have a high idle. the choke controls the releasing of the "high idle cam". so unless the choke opens the cam cant release, so you have a artificial high idle.

 

 

 

then go back and do the "lean best idle" procedure in teh manual that came with the kit. as you have prolly F'd up the mixture and idle settings.

 

 

best of luck to ya.:D

 

Thanks. I will check the choke wire tomorrow in the daylight- and yes I probably F'd up the settings- but I will fix it!;)

 

Just to let you know, I live pretty far up in the mountains and this truck is my only form of transportation right now. Until I get it running I have to hitchhike into town, so it's not so easy for me to get a test light. I actually ordered a decent test light on ebay but it hasn't been delivered yet. I'll have to rig something to test the wire for now.

[moparvwfreak]

if you have a decent bulb holder you can rig up a cheap and effective test light no problem. i have had to do it a couple times to test things on the fly.

 

also your throttle cable might bnot have enough slack in it to let it return to idle. when i did the swap on my 73 originally (JY weber carb off another 620), i had to bend the bracket, same one your using, so i ahd some play to adjust it. also i would like to see the linkage you have in more detail. it looks different from the 2 i have on my trucks.

 

as for the switch you asked about, its the throttle switch for hte 2nd points. one of 2 or 3 in the system. i just took mine off nad threw it, literally, into a corner somewhere as i am going electronics with the motor swap.

[nukeday]

I'll have to rig something to test the wire for now.

 

Disclaimer: Use this procedure at your own risk/discretion.

 

---------

 

If you spent money for a 'good' test lamp, and you need to check this without a meter, here is a very quick, cheap way to do this:

 

You'll need a dash light bulb, a paperclip, two pieces of 4' long thin gauge electrical wire (cheap speaker wire works fine), wire strippers (pocket knife) and electrical tape. Most dash light bulbs have two tangs bent over the end of the glass.

 

1. Strip both ends of one wire about 1/2", strip only one end of the second wire.

2. Take the extra dash bulb and gently bend the two little wire legs down, thread a piece of wire inside each of the little loops and twist the wire around the loops, and then bend the legs back up. Make sure the wires don't touch each other. I usually run one in from each side of the bulb and then just electrical tape the bottom.

3. Then take the wire that is stripped on the other end and tape it to the MINUS post on the battery.

4. If you left the insulation on the second wire, you can stick a straightened paper clip in there and you now have a 'probe' to start poking around with.

5. Wrap the paperclip to the wire with electrical tape, only leave about 1/2" uncovered.

6. Now touch the paperclip to the + POSITIVE post on the battery. The lamp should light. :thumbup:

 

For your situation, you can now take the pointy end of the paper clip and stick it in your red wire. Set the bulb up where you can see it. I usually just tape it to the windshield. Go turn the key. If the lamp lights, you found a good wire to run the choke. If it doesn't, start moving your little paperclip probe to different wires.

 

This little test light doesn't usually last more than a few sessions, but they've saved my bacon more than once. I usually keep a few extra dash bulbs handy. Do NOT use this lamp for serious testing of constant 12V, the speaker wire works fine for quick tests but is no good for any sort of long term connection, or testing. Do not try to start the car, or leave your test light hooked up after you've found the 12V you are looking for.

 

Have fun!

 

PS - For testing the carb, you could just run a wire from the + side of the coil to the choke. That should be IGN switched 12V.

Edited October 15, 2009 by nukeday

[SHIFT]

First of all thanks to everyone who posted back. People on this forum have been a great help whenever I post questions so really, thanks a lot!

 

So here's my report. The throttle shaft nut was pretty tight so I loosened it up then locked it in place with the bendable locking tab that is there- Done!

 

As suggested I rigged a home-made tester from an extra dash light that I had. I tested the wire that I originally hooked up to the choke. It was completely dead- so I tested the wire connected to the now defunct anti-dieseling solenoid- it was a winner so I used that wire. Done!

 

I adjusted the settings again and got it to idle pretty good. I took it for a short drive and it seemed to run just fine. I'll do a cold start on it tomorrow morning to see how it behaves, but as of tonight it's mission accomplished!

[SHIFT]

if you have a decent bulb holder you can rig up a cheap and effective test light no problem. i have had to do it a couple times to test things on the fly.

 

also your throttle cable might bnot have enough slack in it to let it return to idle. when i did the swap on my 73 originally (JY weber carb off another 620), i had to bend the bracket, same one your using, so i ahd some play to adjust it. also i would like to see the linkage you have in more detail. it looks different from the 2 i have on my trucks.

 

as for the switch you asked about, its the throttle switch for hte 2nd points. one of 2 or 3 in the system. i just took mine off nad threw it, literally, into a corner somewhere as i am going electronics with the motor swap.

 

The carb came fitted with a linkage piece that was shaped like a squarish upside-down "U" - which according to the instructions is for a rod operated throttle. I replaced it with a piece that is triangular with several holes in it. I had to use the original bracket that was already bolted to the manifold because the one that was included with the kit was completely wrong- the bolt holes on the new bracket were way off. Let me know if you need a better pic and I'll take one.

 

The instruction sheet that came with the kit was pretty lousy. The adapter plates that I got were configured completely different than what was described in the instructions. A couple of pictures of the linkage setups would have been nice... but I suppose most people who buy these kits are generally more experienced under the hood than I am.

[nukeday]

Glad to hear it went well. Hitchhiking sucks.