comply

I'm using the stock 510 one, which is what I was told by the Ratsun community to use! So I hope :P

When it happened on the old setup and we pulled the t/o bearing and the pressure plate, the bearing was seized

It does it in neutral, so it doesnt matter if the parking brake is on or not. Trans went in just fine once we got it lined up.

The bearing is pressed on all the way, I am pretty sure it's onthe right way, but wont know without seeing a picture of what it SHOULD look like.

It is. Does anyone have a picture of how the spring that holds the sleeve to the clutch fork goes on?

Yes I'm back in CO :) Car is down here in Pueblo at my dads. I'm up in Castle Rock. Hainz, I got every piece recommended by the community for the 5-speed swap. I have checked and double checked installation. The only thing I THINK may be wrong is the slave cylinder. I am using one from a '79 200sx, but I just read that the stock 510 one works too? I bled the clutch system completely. Start the car and you can hear the screeching from the t/o bearing rub against the pressure plate. Push the clutch in and the car stalls. I think the slave cylinder is off...somehow.

Got the new pressure plate(roadster) and throwout bearing(roadster) and the stock 510 bearing carrier, and it's doing the same thing. Anyone inthe Denver area want to do some paid work?

Alrighty, update. I had some issues with the drivetrain after the swap. Drove it no more than 1/8 of a mile and this happened to the pressure plate and t/o bearing I HAD pictures but they broke. I'll try to upload them later Apparently I used the wrong bearing carrier for the throwout bearing. Lesson learned I ordered a new pressure plate and bearing, got the correct bearing sleeve, and am waiting on delivery to put it back together.

I went to nissanparts.cc and reordered one. They had my old order saved still so that helped. You should see the Pressure plate and bearing. They're FUBAR'd

Alright. The problem WAS the bearing carrier. The 510 one is about 1/2 inch shorter. But my new bearing and pressure plate are completely trashed. I need to find the part numbers for the bearing and roadster pressure plate.

Bleh. I'm lost now.

I'll have to check. I'm not sure. The car had some switch attached to the clutch pedal that has never been plugged into anything, so I might.

The bearing I got was for a roadster I believe. Rock Auto says that part is the bearing for a 510. Which would be the stock one I think.

Yeah. I can have it in neutral and push the clutch pedal in and it bogs down and tries to stall. So which sleeve should I be using again? The stock 4-speed one, or the one that came on the dogleg 5-speed?

I don't know what the trans came from. It came in a box of parts when I bought the car. I have the stock 510 flywheel, Roadster Pressure plate, basically the same parts you all told me to get to make it work. The sleeve I used was off the dogleg 5-speed. The car sits in neutral just fine unless you push the clutch in. If you put it in all the way the car bogs down and stalls. In gear it's the same.

The Slave Cylinder isn't one with threads. It's the "self adjusting" one. I THIIIINK I used the wrong sleeve. I used the bearing sleeve that came on the transmission, not the one that was on my stock 4-speed. I don't have any of that stuff anymore. Do any of you have one I can buy? :confused: So I'm guessing the problem is that my T/O carrier isn't long enough to fully engage the clutch? I should specify it usually bogs down when I push the clutch in with the car in neutral. I don't remember if it does it in gears.

I just installed a dogleg 5-speed into my 510, got the roadster pressure plate in there, as well as the other parts you guys have suggested. My issue is, when I press my clutch pedal more than half way down, it bogs the engine down and sometimes stalls if it's idling low enough. If I push it half way or so it isnt an issue. Also, there is no play in the clutch pedal before engaging, and it's really stiff. Any suggestions? I've done some searching and can only come up with either I need to re-bleed the clutch system to get it to self-adjust, or I messed up the install. Does anyone have any pictures of how the T/O bearing and such should be installed? The Haynes and Chilton manuals dont have any pictures worth a damn.

This may be the ultimate FUCK! story. Guy on the Realm had two rust free Nevada wagons. One day after some high winds, he came out and found them like this. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9077&p=91068&hilit=tree+wagon#p91068

We'll all have to get together one of these days. I just moved back to Colorado into Castle Rock

'82 280zx in what looks like amazing condition. One flaw is the "start" position on the ignition doesn't work so there is a push button start wired up. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1193400457.html It's in Nebraska

Got the fuel pump working, I guess we just needed to prime it with some fuel first like Hainz said. After that the car started up and idled great. There was some smoke coming out of the transmission bellhousing through that hold I had. We figured it was exhaust entering through the hole at the bottom of the plate, and coming out through the top. Anyway we shut it off and fixed up the hole at the top. After that we dropped it off the jacks, and tried to drive it a few feet and it just won't idle like it was when it was on the jack stands.

Also my fan belt is loose. The Alternator is as far down the guide as it will go. :(

The Idle Cut Solenoid is wired up correctly and working. When I turn the key to ON I can hear the solenoid click. The carburetor is off a later model L20. The choke and BCDD aren't hooked up.

I was going to do that to my radiator, but then figured no one would see it. I really want to do it to my grille now seeing how well yours came out! I've wanted to do teeth on my car since I saw Tom Coronel blasting around the track in the WTCC