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Will

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Posts posted by Will

  1. 160J is the designator for all the 710s except the hardtop the hardtop is the only one with the 160U designator

     

    Actually it seems like the 160U was available as a 4-door sedan and a 2-door hardtop - I think "160U" is just what they called the 710/Violet/140J/160J in South Africa. They ended up with some pretty unique Datsuns down there (like the 160Z and 140Z L-series B-210s!)

  2. I had one that was in rough shape that fixed up pretty nicely. It is essentially thick cardboard, so I used some wood glue, wood putty, and paint to fix it up. You can even glue in some thick (non-corrugated) cardboard to make patches for the speaker holes and broken edge if you want.

  3. What's the difference between a 160J and a 160U??? ... :confused: .... I've never searched for 160U parts

     

    I'm not sure but I noticed a few things - badges, unusual (locally-sourced?) seats, dog-dish hubcaps, a 4-door SSS model, more pastel paint colors...

  4. Will - that's awesome that the motor got you that far I knew it was a good strong motor but just not my thing and the whole leaving me on the road a few times really disgruntled me but I'm sure most of it was due to that ignition box

     

    Yeah - that might be it - I've been running it with a pretty standard matchbox ignition, and it's been trouble-free other than a slow oil leak somewhere near the front of the engine. (leak near the fan = drops of oil get blown everywheres.)

  5. I had some idle time today... time to look up 710s on overseas classifieds sites and such.

     

    ssscp_zpsb6807cfa.jpg

     

    2ccc844e6d9b11e3bb380e2f9fbff9e4_8_zps42

     

    40304956_2065351_52d9e55491a5c_zpsb18879

     

    160U SSS with twin carbs:

     

    1351457996_450630301_2-Datsun-160u-sss-K

    1351457996_450630301_5-Datsun-160u-sss-G

     

    Apparently a 160J SSS appeared in "American Ninja 4: The Annihilation." 

     

    AmericanNinja4TheAnnihilation2_zps56d989

    AmericanNinja4TheAnnihilation1_zps242f01

     

    ...and another nice South African 160U:

     

    _40_zps18f7ef0c.jpg

    _30_zps984476a1.jpg

    _50_zpsd059a3af.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. I started taking care of the rust on the new front sheetmetal - the fenders are NOS stuff that has gotten a bit dinged and rusty from age, but the valence panel has been used and abused. I stripped off the paint from the valence today, and it had just about everything - paint over undercoating... bondo... a large ding filled with LEAD...

     

    Luckily despite all of the damage it will only need a tiny bit of welding.

     

    ...well, I have always wanted to learn how to work a hammer & dolly.

     

    DSCN5837_zpsd2cc29ae.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. Borrow an Infra Red 'gun' and 'shoot' the thermostat housing when warmed up it should be close to the 180 thermostat you put in.

     

    I don't know anyone out here that has one of those infrared guns, but maybe a meat thermometer would do the trick?

  8. I fiddled with the connections a bit and my headlights are working normally - seemed to be something with the fuses or connections around the relays.

     

    I also finally got a chance to install the JDM taillight that Indy510 passed along to me (though I don't have the matching one for the passengers side!)

     

    DSCN5807_zps924ed1a5.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. ...finally got around to fixing the temperature gauge. Checked it out by grounding the wire leading to the sending unit and the gauge read hot, so I replaced the sender and now it works, but the gauge reads all the way on the cold end of the "okay" space on the gauge. I'm not sure if the gauge is poorly calibrated - the heater does seem a little weak. I put in a new 180 thermostat this morning and the temperature gauge needle is still in the same spot.

     

        Another weird problem popped up - tonight when I turned on my headlights I only got high beams regardless of where the turn signal lever was switched. Parking lights still work normally - but I can only get the high beams now. ...odd.

  10. That's odd - on my 710, the parking brake cable hooks up the the rear axle on the passengers side instead of the drivers side.

     

    I got a set of H-190 U bolts and 2" blocks (probably for a 620) at Canby. Late in the day deals to be made.

    I fit them to my H-165 710 rear axle by simply pounding the U a little tighter to fit the mounting plates. Fit's perfectly! Even added an extra leaf to stiffen.
     

    710rearbumpstops002Large.jpg

    • Like 1
  11. The head is literally right out of the machine shop. The engine has a brand new timing kit in it as well, which I may go back and get.

    Its like they slapped it on and drove it to the junkyard. The carbon wipes off with a finger!

     

    I got it cheap!!!

     

    Yeah - that 710 certainly looks like a stalled project. I'm wondering if the interior was left behind in the guy's garage when the scrappers towed the shell away.

  12. are you coming to canby? 

     

    Yeah - hopefully I'll make it this year. It happened  few days after I arrived on the west coast last year, but I really want to go - my girlfriend has never visited the northwest, and I really want to visit the dunes and everything and make a road trip out of it.

  13. cant wait to do the rear breaks on my GF's goon!!!!!!

     

     

    great documentation!

     

    Thanks! I hope I've been able to highlight all of the points that slowed down the project, so that it will go more smoothly for anyone else that tries this swap out. I'm really happy with it now that it is all finished!

     

     

    ...now on to the next project:

     

     

    Carb rebiuld / fuel pump? (when I start the car after it has been sitting for more than a few hours, it takes a lot of cranking for the gas to reach the carb.)

     

    New exhaust manifold gasket (it sounds like a tractor sometimes.)

     

    Fix the dead temp gauge (I have a few spare clusters to use for parts...)

     

    Swap the front sheetmetal (those fenders are taking up a lot of space in my clothes closet!)

     

    Fix the crossmember mounts (one of the captured nuts snapped free, so I'll either need to drill two holes from the bottom and MIG it in place, or drill from the top and bolt it in place with regular bolts.)

     

    Shorten the front struts /use shorter cartridges so that I can lower the front a little more - the spring are loose at full droop.

     

    Choke cable hookup (don't need it too much out in California...)

     

    Seat covers / carpet / soundproofing / paint (bottom of the list classy stuff.)

  14. Nice going will. I don't know about the sx hand brake. maybe lengthen a lever?

     

    Could be... I'll test it out on a steep hill soon, (plenty of places fit the bill in this town!) but I think it's good to go for now. I'll wait to do more brake modifications until I can track down a 710 at a junkyard so I can modify parts without needing to put my car out of commission.

  15. Got everything together today!

     

    280ZX master cylinder was a pretty easy bolt-in swap... other than some brake lines that needed vise-grips to remove.

     

     

    DSCN5795_zps1aefed86.jpg

     

     

    I needed to shorten the parking brake rods by almost 3", and even then, they were a little too long (I was just barely able to get the cable tight enough to work.) Maybe the 200SX has a parking brake lever with more travel than the 710?

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