ddrum

12 hours ago, shlammed said:

this will be a cross-post from the classifieds but I am in search of a clutch pedal bolt.  (or can you still buy them? maybe i will call nissan)

I had to buy one from a hardware store with a couple of washers as it was a tad longer

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

I should imagine loosening those 3 screws, set the stator and tighten. Looks like some blue thread locker??? on them. Someone may have already had it apart.

Thank you Datzenmike, I will take it apart tomorrow!

That's awesome! I hope its just adjustment! It was running fine around 7 years ago, then it just sat in a parts stash. 

Datzenmike, how does one adjust it?

Hello, I just finished the process of converting my 1972 510 into electronic ignition. The car starts and runs just fine, but I noticed a tapping sound that came from the distributor itself. Turns out the teeth dont line up evenly. Does anyone know if these are still rebuildable? And if they are what parts would I need to aling the teeth in the center?

Thank you, Erick

So I followed Datzenmikes advice and it seems to work! Time will tell. Here is a picture of what I was talking about being off center.

In the following picture you can see i elongated the hole to correct for the offset of the distributor collar for the pin to go through the matchbox distributor

Awesome, a 72 four door auto just like mine!! Thanks for sharing, and what a great history you must have with the car!

Erick

23 hours ago, yenpit said:

 

Wait......a 1972?  The auto shift lever mechanism should be on the floor 72-73?  Is yours a column shift?

Mine is a floor shift yenpit

1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Line up one hole on the collar with the hole in the shaft and run a drill through to make a hole on the other side?

Yes, that is exactly what needs to be done in order to make the pin go through

34 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

So you want the metal collar on the matchbox. Can you drill a second hole that matches the off set?

Hmm that might just work, ill give that a try!

2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

22119-H2700 is the earliest use part number for 521/510/610

Then changed to this number....

22119-W0400* is the '79 620 Matchbox plastic collar set includes the roll pin.

 

Shows that part* used on all z and zx cars, 810 and Maxima. All L16/18 20B 620s, all L18/20B 710s, All A10 L20B and Z20, All S10 and S110, all 720 gas engines L20B, Z20/22/24.

 

 

The hole in the distributor shaft is not centered?? Got pictures?

It's not centered, only by a bit but enough so the pin wont go all the way through, but on the points, its perfectly centered. Its really bizarre! I don't have any pictures right now, ill try taking some tomorrow morning, but I tried installing the collar onto the matchbox and it fit, but the hole never lines up no matter how its put in (that's what she said). 

17 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I cant open the foto but why you need that collar off? on lower part of dist?

Im not confusing this with a pedastal right?

Yes, it is different from the pedestal

Ill try and post it again. Well my original question was to know if I really need it, since it broke off the matchbox which im trying to install on my 510.

1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

photos of what your taling about?

 

Its the bottom collar and pin Hainz

1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

The plastic part (called a collar) helps align the the spindle and the distributor shaft. The part number is 22119-W0400 for most L20Bs earlier ones were metal, might fit.... on the chance Nissan still has them.

 

Try... https://ratsun.net/classifieds/category/9-datsun-parts/

 

 

 

Thank you so much Datzenmike, I tried installing the original L16 dual points Dizzy collar on it, but the collar pin goes in offset on the L16 and wont aling with the matchbox.

Erick

I have a question, I have a spare matchbox distributor from a old truck that i got into an accident with, the potential problem is that is base got broken. My question being, can I run it like this on an L16? 

And the clutch is a normal thread

1 hour ago, shlammed said:

The pedal boxes are the same, so you need to add a clutch pedal to the auto box, replace the auto brake pedal with manual pedal and bend your throttle linkage?

Will be going through the same effort myself.

53 minutes ago, Icehouse said:

 

Yep.  Only "difference" in the box is a return spring for the clutch pedal.  Who needs that.  I sure don't .  

Exactly, the only difference is the bracket for the clutch return spring being in the manual pedal box. I thought about just swapping the pedals, but I had found a good deal 3 years ago and got all the parts in was missing, like the tunnel cover and clutch fork for $100, so ended swapping the whole thing.

1 thing to keep in mind if you are doing this, the brake pedal bolt is a reverse thread, so it comes out turning it clockwise.

Awesome, good to know all this. Thank you all for the information! I really appreciate all the help! 

I will do exactly that and will come back to verify, just in case someone else in the future has the same question! 

Thank you, Erick

Datzenmike, thank you very much! So its basically by trial and error more or less then. I appreciate your quick response!

Hello, so I am in the process of converting my 1972 510 Sedan from auto to a manual transmission and in the process I had to take out then steering column to make room for the manual pedal box assembly. My questions is, is there a specific way too install the steering column for alignment? 

Also the steering gear inside the column fell out of place and I also dont know if I have to "clock" it in a certain direction. 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Erick

Yes, so pretty much it won't hold the truck from rolling even on a very small slope. Ill look under the truck tomorrow and look for the adjustment. Is it adjustable with simple tools? im guessing a wrench? I looked at where the cables meet but I couldn't figure out exactly how or where to adjust them.

Thank you Datzenmike

Hello everyone.

So I recently got my 79 620 up and running after not driving it for two years. I did a head gasket replacement since it blew. Then I started working on the brakes and noticed brake fluid was missing each morning. Turned out that the master cylinder was bad. I changed it and started bleeding the brakes and noticed the booster was leaking fluid into the inside of the cab. Well, I took it off and it was full of brake fluid. Well then I sent it out through Rock auto about a month ago and got it completely rebuilt with seals and all. It's awesome that they can still rebuild them. Ok so I adjusted the rear drum brakes and I have a firm and great braking truck. The thing is in order to pass inspection, the E brake needs to work but it doesn't quite brake the truck. It works way better after adjusting the rear drums but still doesn't catch fully. 

My question is, is there any other way to adjust and if there is, from where?

Thanks, Erick

On 6/15/2017 at 8:55 AM, carterb said:

Well, last night I set out to replace the steering box seal as the girls have a horse show this weekend and I don't want them stranded with a broken box.

 

I bought a "front end repair kit" at Harbor Freight, one of the pitman arm pullers was just the right size.

 

http://datsun510.com/uploads/monthly_2017_06/large.59429d993f3dc_06142017Bruisersteeringboxseal(1).JPG.cc7e841da749b0ca6feed52c31a121af.JPG

 

However, being a Harbor Freight tool, the amount of force I was willing to put into the tool was not enough to pop the arm loose.  I tried wedges between the tool and the steering box and also tried hitting the pitman arm with a hammer and a long screwdriver from the top of the engine compartment.  Nothing would make it budge and I didn't want to overstress anything inside the box by going caveman on the thing.  So I cleaned up the everything as good as I could with a rag and got out the propane torch.  After a few minutes of heat application to the pitman arm around the steering box shaft, I re-hung the puller, cranked the bolt, and the arm came right off.

 

http://datsun510.com/uploads/monthly_2017_06/large.59429d9c5fdc0_06142017Bruisersteeringboxseal(2).JPG.7688d481cfed39190b6288fb51393d76.JPG

 

The seal took a while too, but eventually I persuaded it to come out with a flat screwdriver and some careful prying motions.

 

http://datsun510.com/uploads/monthly_2017_06/large.59429d9d366e8_06142017Bruisersteeringboxseal(3).JPG.06242d6e739b987bf0503510c5ff8288.JPG

 

New seal in place and seated with a deep socket.

 

http://datsun510.com/uploads/monthly_2017_06/large.59429d9df26d9_06142017Bruisersteeringboxseal(4).JPG.4ba77c77502c131d7414e6109fc278ac.JPG

 

I reconnected the arm, torqued the giant nut, filled the box with 90W, cleaned up, and went to bed.

 

This morning there was not a drip in sight.  VICTORY!!!

Carterb, thank you so much for this! I changed this seal yesterday on my 1979 620 and it everything went smoothly! I followed and studied this post. Now I can drive my Datsun with peace in mind!

Hey John510, I'm using the stock 510 lower spring perch.