haubstr

Retired 23.5 Years AF Computer Operations and now DOD employee at Beale AFB, Ca.

What do these 15x8 chevy rally wheels come off of? I want to start looking, but want a direction to go.

Thanks

haubstr

How about the rear driveshaft? shipped to 95692

Haubstr

Does Anybody have a spare gas door spring for a 521?

I have had SU's on my mostly stock L18 with no return line for about 6 years. I run a Holley Red electric fuel pump with a FPR at about 5-6 Lbs of pressure. No overflowing at all.

Still waiting as well.

I can't get a response from him at all

I couldn't find one either so what I did is get 1 for a Small Block Chevy... The holes lined up and all I had to do is grind off some off the bottom and there it is... looked just like the other one I bought for my L18...

Perfect... I found mine, now I can register my truck... Since my truck dropped out of the DMV system (because it hasn't been registered in 10+ years) and I only had 1 VIN plate (firewall VIN missing) I was having a tough time getting a VIN verification done... Cal requires VIN in 2 spots

Thanks for the info and Pics

I have that header on my 521... It wasn't easy and if I had it to do over again I wouldn't do it... I have an L18 and coil overs in the front... I also had to notch the cross member about an 1 - 1 1/2" and take off the E-brake bracket attached to the frame(starting to research a newer E-brake system)...

I like it now, but wouldn't do it...

A couple of pics...

so with the coil overs you dont need the torsion bars right or am i wrong any way it look good.is that the beebani mount kit or did you make that your self.i love it though.

The torsion bars are all gone... Those are BeeBani brackets... They had to be adjusted a little higher because they were made for a 620, the 521 shock perches are a little shorter... They work great... Also, if you do get BeeBani brackets make sure when you buy coil overs you get the ones with bearings and not bushings... the bushings are a little wider than the bearings so we had to grind a little off... The brackets themselves are very strong and professionally made... I recommend them...

Update... Install of coilovers...

Needs a little cleanup and painted but it's done...

New stance...

Good find for the stock single point distributor which I have in my 510 w/Pertronix, but my truck has a black box dizzy which I think is a JH-63X... If you find 1 of those let me know...

Later

couple of more pics...

Shot of proportioning valve for the 4 wheel discs and the long tube header...

Interior...

The mirror I found on his 520 parts trucks...

looks good

where you get the Blu Streak cap? they still make them.I cant find them anymore

Good luck on finding a Blue Streak cap... I actually found this one on amazon... I fired up the truck and ran it for a few minutes, took off the distributor cap and the center pin that touches the rotor fell out... Needless to say no more blue streak cap

a couple of updates finally...

BeeBani brackets and discs

Proportioning valve for the 4 wheel discs

Fromt Side view

Rear

Inside

New goodies

Nice... about time

Well I'm going to try and register my truck hopefully next week and here is my dilema... My truck dropped out of Ca. DMV system because it hasn't been registered since 1989... It still has the blue plates on it and I'm thinking of trying to be a little sneaky to keep them... I'm thinking of ordering new vanity plates with the same letter/numbers as the blue plates and then when they come in put the stickers on the old plates...

Anybody tried anything like this?

Is there anyway a cop can tell on your registration that the plates are supposed to be white instead of blue or that it is supposed to be a vanity plate?

Just an idea...

Thanks

I used the one from an automatic 510 since it reaches to the far side like the 280ZX trans... I been running it for years...

:) you get like 50 of them right to my 1 :)

Thanks... I'll have to watch for the tab when it comes in... I ordered the MC yesterday and going to pick it up in a few minutes... In the picture online the tabs were top and bottom... We'll see

I read all the postings saying I'll need a little more leg for stopping... It's OK if my right leg is bigger than my left because of the workout driving... lol

Thanks again

Jamie

"haubstr"

No.

 

 

 

The 280zx won't fit. It way too larg a diameter and won't clear your clutch master or the steering column. A smaller booster from a 210 or a 620 should fit. Don't forget the pedistal between it and the firewall.

 

 

 

'79 to '81 is best.

 

 

 

 

280zx masters were 15/16"

Thank You for the response Datzenmike...

Did the '79-'80 280ZX come without a brake booster?

Will a Master cylinder made for a brake booster work on my truck when I'm not using one?

Does it matter which 280ZX Master cylinder I buy for my 521 with 4 wheel disk brakes?

What is the smallest bore they made for these master cylinders? 7/8" or 15/16"?

Sorry for all the questions but I only want to buy a new one once...

Thanks in advance

Jamie

In case you wanted something New

New Motor Mounts

What year of 280zx? '78 was disc/drum, '79 was disc/disc.....I think....I'm always wrong about the years....yello620 always corrects me :)

 

How exactly are you bench bleeding it? Short lines looped back into the reservoirs? How far are you pushing the pistons in? There's two pistons in the m/c. With it mounted in a vise, short lines in place.....and the ends in the reservoirs need to be submerged or they will suck air back in. Take a dowel or screwdriver and push the pistons in and watch for bubbles in the reservoirs. Don't push or release too fast. 2-3 seconds each way. You need to push in quite a ways...both pistons need to bottom out. Since they are "stacked" pistons, if the front circuit(rear) piston has air, it will not push the second piston until if physically bottoms out against it. Once is is bled and has all fluid, the fluid pressure will push the second piston.

 

Since you'll have the caps off the reservoirs when you do this, if the front circuit(rear res) is bad, it may shoot fluid back up into the res as you push.

 

If you have the m/c in the truck, you'll need a second set of hands to help. Get a long screwdriver....remove the push rod from between the pedal assy and the m/c. One of you crack open the rear circuit bleeder valve....the other, steadily push the piston in with the screw driver. Fluid should come out. When the screwdriver stops, or fluid stops, close the bleeder valve, but do not release the screwdriver. While still pushing, crack open the other bleeder valve. If it's working, fluid will come out and the screwdriver will go down further. If there is neither fluid or movement from the screwdriver, close the valve and then slowly release the screwdriver. Repeat again, but only do the front circuit this time.....since we know the rear is working. It's okay to have the valve open while you're pushing...just make sure it's closed before the screwdriver is released. You may need to do this about 5 times? If you do not get any fluid from the front circuit, remove the bleeder valve and see if fluid comes out. If it does, something's wrong with the bleeder valve.

 

this is soooo much easier to explain in person than in print!! If you're not getting fluid out of the front circuit even with the bleeder out, there may be some crap in the hole in the bottom of the reservoir cup. You can push a piece of vacuum tubing onto the bleeder valve......with the valve open a bit, gently blow into the tube......if you have the cap off the reservoir, you should see bubbles. Wear safety googles or do not hover over the reservoir.....you don't want brake fluid getting in your eyes!!

 

 

Longer pushrod?? You have a 521? The pushrod on the stock m/c was captured and not the correct style to be used with the 280 m/c. If you got creative and used the 521 pushrod....which is doesn't look like since you have an adjustable on there......that would be your problem since the piston is not returning completely because of the pushrod.

So before I even try anything else with this MC let me ask you a question... Do I even have the right one to run in my 521? According to everything I read, the MC I have, which is the one for front Disk rear drum, will not run on my 4 wheel disk set up... Correct?

If I need a different one then which one should I get? I will not be running a booster and I need the smallest bore that will work for the 4 wheel disk...

Thanks in advance

Jamie

I feel like I'm beating a dead horse because I've read all of the posts about the disk conversion and still don't know if I have the right master cylinder or not...

I have disks on the front and back and I have what I believe is the 280ZX MC along with the Wilwood prportioning valve pictured below...

I have the rear (small resevoir) hooked up through the proportioning valve and it is bled and is fine... the front (large resevoir) however I can't get more than a drop out at a time even during the bench bleeding... I understand it might be bad but how do I confirm?

Also what is the purpose of the longer rod for this master? I understand the MC is longer but I push on my brake pedal and it only moves about 1 - 1 1/2" and it is so firm I can't push it in anymore and my back brakes work fine... which is also the the furthest resevoir...

As someone else has said "school me"

Thanks in advance

Jamie

These are just an extra set of wheels I took off of an 84 200SX Turbo... they are 15X6 and come with 2 tires(195/60/15)... these tires hold air but there is only about 10% tread left... the wheels are in good condition but not in perfect condition... I got them for my 510 but decided to go with 300ZX wheels instead...

If you want more pictures or have any questions let me know... $125 obo

Pick up only...

They are located in Marysville , Ca. (45 min. North of Sac)