haubstr

Looks like I'm looking for a KA oil pump.

Appreciate the info Mike. 

haubstr

I took a part the oil pump to clean it because it was old and had some oil sludge in it. I got a new gasket to put it back together and noticed there are dots on the top of the rotor and on the case. Does this need to be lined up a certain way before putting it back together? I haven't seen anything on this before and was curious. 

If I need to I'll take pics when I get home from work to show what I mean.  

I just got given to me a L521 that had the J13 with the frame motor mounts cut off. I want to put an L series motor so is it better to weld on some L motor mounts to the frame or just find a frame from a PL521 and switch everything over? I'm in NORCAL

It doesn't have to be perfect as I already have a 521 with a KA swap I just need an everyday driver/beater. 

@mrbigtanker His name is Tim Gallagher. He owns Gallagher's heat and air here in NORCAL. He is in his mid 50's. He told me that he had a 521 in high school and now that he had the $$$ he wanted to do one the way he wanted with no $$$ limit.  Must be nice.

Its not stock up front. I know the owner that had the truck built originally. He told me that he had a 720 whole front end put on it for the disk brakes. He said about 10 years ago he didn't want to tell me how much he had in it but it is between $60-$80K. Don't know who owns it now but it has a lot done to it. I personally do not like the color. I do like the A/C. I wish my KA 521 had A/C being in NORCAL. 

What it looks like now

Realized I needed more room so I put the Qa1 coil overs in the front (Bye Bye torsion bars)

Also relocated the battery to the bed. Miata battery fits under the charcoal canister fender well extension on drivers side

I'll take/post pics of those later

Engine Done

Test fit

Got a good deal on this so time to press on

I guess it is time for an update. Ended up buying the truck off of my dad about a year or so ago. Been stuck at home because of the Corona so I have been rounding up the photos from the last year. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/21332897@N07/50091291943/in/dateposted-public/

Got tired of figuring out the turbo setup so the first thing I did was take it off. It ran a lot better after that.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/21332897@N07/50092110462/in/dateposted-public/

Drove it around for about a week and decided to swap. I pulled the L20B/5-speed and sold all of it with the turbo 

I ordered a new connector from Wiring Specialties but I got it and it was disassembled and had no wire with it. What size wire should I use 12 14 or 16 gauge?  

Perfect! I'm going out in a few to hook it up.

Thank You guys for the direction.

Don't know if this is the right section but I thought I would try. My swap is almost done but I can't find anywhere what to do with the alternator wiring. In particular the wires from the 521 alternator T connector and the plug on the back of the KA alternator. This truck already had the internally regulated alternator. If there is a link and hopefully pics that would be great.

521 T connector - Yellow and white with black stripe

Ka plug - White and white with red stripe

I only ask because the last swap I did the battery always drained and I don't know if it was charging or not. My aftermarket gauge showed it was but ???

Thanks in advance

Haubstr

I understand "The 521 engine bay is approximately 5' longer from the firewall to the radiator support frame than 520s." But is the only difference between L521 and PL521 engine bay the addition of extra metal for the J13 radiator on the core support? Does anyone have a Pic of this extra metal that can be removed?

I am leaning towards putting the L engine back in.

Thanks again.  

Thanks for the replies. I just wanted to see if it was doable or I needed a new frame because of the width in the engine bay. I still may do the KA swap. I have running/driving swap under my belt already so that is a possibility. 

The body on this truck is very straight with only top rust. Came with a bed full of extra parts. I'll take pics as soon as I can, Its at my dads house two hours away. I'll be bringing to my house in a couple of weeks once I clear space out in my garage. Just bought a house and need to empty more boxes out of the garage.  

Jamie

Bought a 69 521 that came with a J13. The motor was gone and the motor mounts on the frame were cutoff. Is the frame the same up front as the PL521 with a L16 and just the motor mounts on the frame different? If so I'm looking to buy.

Thanks

Jamie 

I used the Dime Quarterly Volume 9 Issue 3 for my S14 trans to run on my 521 speedo...

HERE

Here are a couple of crappy pics I just took... I have a Z20S in my '70 510... It looks like stock L series mounts maybe... This engine setup I believe is out of a 79-80 510...

In one pic you can see where the hood prop was removed and a notch was put in the brace for the air cleaner. 

Message me if you want more pics...

What kind of fitment issues? I have a Z20S in my 510 and it look like it should be there. It is gutless. The only issue is the brace on the hood had to be notched for the weber air cleaner and I had to install the hood shocks. If you have any questions or want any pics let me know.

The radiator is just an aluminum 3-row for a 521 from EBAY but it keeps real cool so far. I'm waiting for summer to make sure. The upper radiator hose number is AC Delco 24155L 

Big - come on I know the Titans are gay but.......lol       I'm on the hunt for something new now that clears the calipers.

Big- That is a good idea. It is a tight fit between the water pump and the two 8" puller fans. I'm gonna take a look this weekend....

True on all accounts... Used BEEBANI disc brake brackets front and rear as well as his coil over brackets. I did use Blackmarkit KA motormounts and trans mount. Everything I have used has been well built and would use again in a heart beat.

Thanks again guys

Nice 720 project...

What wheels are those? 

I checked the ground and it is at the same spot to the dash where my other autometer gauges are grounded and they work fine. I did take off the back of the tach and set the dip switches to 4 cylinder but I will recheck tomorrow. Is there another wire I can run the green tach signal wire to? coil?

Thanks   

I have been looking mostly on the 240SX forums on putting in an aftermarket tach. From everything I read the only wire in question is the Green signal wire from the tach. The yellow/red wire at the ECU is the signal wire according to the FSM. My tach jumps while I'm cranking but nothing after it starts...

Any ideas?