pishta

StuartXTZ, do those Redline numbers describing the float measurements jive with your float? I ditched the DGV for a smaller 32/34 Weber of a 1.6 Escort that Redline sold in 1986. It has the published jetting that had it passing California CARB smog testing. It has a weird float that is very wide and straddles one of the venturis and it DOES NOT compress the ball in the needle as the DGV does so maybe I had a saturated float but that still doesnt explain the math that didnt add up when everyone is telling me bottom of float must be x and top of float off the gasket should be y. Those never added up to the height of my Weber branded nitrophile float.

we got E10 gas here so Im thinking stoich for E10 is actually 14.13. IIRC Redline has gone up on idle jets 2 steps with todays crap gas for their turn key retrofit carbs.

kinda found what I was looking for. The top most was the Vacuum amp 'sense' line that ran the EGR via the amp. The mid level was the purge control valve and the bottom closest to throttle was the vacuum advance. Only thing manifold vacuum on this was power brakes, anti-backfire 'gulp' valve and the evap shutter on the air cleaner snorkle.

A buddy with an O2 guage and a 32/36 on an 80 Mazda 2.0 truck motor found 55/60 idle jet, 145/155 mains and 160/180 air correctors got him a consistent 13:1 across the board with great idle and smooth transition to power. I read that airs should be larger on the primary side and fuel should be obviously larger on the secondary but he says it pulls great now. Just a working combo for a baseline.

Forgive me in advance, I own a Mazda B2000! Anyway, I believe we share this same Nikki 2bbl carb and my question is: Are all 3 vacuum ports off the mixture screw side (3) the same ported vacuum level? My diagram shows the highest port is the Vacuum amplifier 'sense' line. Goes to that strange round thing on the package tray next to the wiper motor and then down to the EGR valve. The mid level port has a 90 bend on it and Its supposed to go to my purge control valve (via a thermo valve that opens when warm so it only pulls charcoal canister fumes when warm and off idle) and the lowest port goes to the vacuum advance. Does this sound about right? My concern is if the 2 lower ones are the same ported vacuum timing? the only thing manifold vaccum is the vacuum amp source, charcoal canister via purge control valve, anti backfire (gulp) valve and air cleaner shutter. I need all this shit to work in Cali for stupid smog inspections and I cant go easily to a Weber. Thanks in advance!

Those guys still say 35mm from the bottom of float to top of lid (with or without gasket? ball compressed or uncompressed? Level or do you measure at far edge of float?). For such an important global setting on these carbs per all the DGV web pages, its amazing that there is no "legal" (ie, cut and dry, no wiggle woom) setting for a frigging float. If you measure float with tab barely touching uncompressed ball (its a .025 compression value) at 18mm from gasket, you end up with a float that is NOT level AND is ~45mm (!) off the gasket. They don't really say weather the float is supposed to be level at this setting but if you need to get it level (just a drawn diagram) , you really have to reconstruct the factory tabs. My float will bury the ball when held horizontal so I just unscrewed the seat so the compressed ball will actually be the same height as the tab "just touching it" for measuring purposes. Then I manipulated the float to get an 18mm FAR EDGE measurement OFF THE GASKET. The (my) float itself is 27mm thick for reference, so if you need to get a Pegasus recommended float level at 35 to the BOTTOM of a 27mm float (?) , you end up with 8mm from float top to top of carb, that aint close to the "new" Redline settings of 18mm from top of float to carb top, it would be more like 45mm from bottom of float to top of carb lid...This is turning into a circle jerk. Either I got a bootleg float at 27mm or everything about measuring the plastic float on these is WRONG or is FAKE NEWS. At 18mm edge of float to gasket, the farthest edge of the float is about 44mm off the top. To get 38mm off the bottom of the float (not even 35) the closest edge of the float is only 6mm from the top without gasket. When you get the 18mm floats to actually compress the ball, holding the top plate horizontal with the weight of the float like you set most every other carbs floats, you end up at 11mm off the GASKET with a level float. Your mileage may vary but if anyone can confirm their floats thickness and properly set up compressed ball measurement off the gasket when the top plate is horizontal with weight of the floats pushing onto the needle (maybe 11mm??) , that would be great. I see quite a few that show this position and the floats dont compress the ball, it bounces. Mine doesn't do that, it will bury that ball. I dont have a gram scale to measure if my floats are dry (11g) or saturated (>19g). Im gonna wait until someone sets me straight before I put this back together.

dont you just love the internet and all its BS? IIRC they used 3 floats: brass round ones, nitrophil and maybe the ones your got as my WEBER ones had a weird scalloped bottom to them. Remember there are 3 WEBER designs: Italy, >'92 Spain, and the REST (Chinese clones) Weber Italy was most likely all brass. Spain had the nitro and China used whatever. Notice angle of brackets: Weber is stepped down, 2nd is straight (?) brass is just alien..... but note the tab locations and angle of brackets. Its hard to get the float tops to 18 if the bracket is not correct, stepped or straight or otherwise without bending the sh!t out of it and altering its original shape that someone paid big money to manufacture as such. Kinda makes you wonder......