Weber 32/36 DGEV Float Adjustment help

[AlexDeLarge]

I wanted you guys to look at the pictures and tell me if it looks right to you. Specs are 35mm resting on uncompressed needle valve held vertical and 51mm open. I have a little over 35mm resting and 51mm open. Last 2 pictures are with carb lid upside down with valve compressed. Does that look right? Also the tab for the open drop does not hit needle stem. Can't see it touching stem to achieve full drop. Brand new carb...was at a little over 40mm resting and around 49mm open from factory. Thanks for looking and feedback, waiting to hear from you guys until I put it back together.

Edited July 15, 2020 by AlexDeLarge

[datzenmike]

This would be open

 

 

This would be needle valve vertical (pointing up) and closed. I assume the float weight would compress the needle valve I guess you could lift it with a finger to uncompressed.

 

 

Where are the measurements to???

 

[AlexDeLarge]

12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

This would be open

 

 

This would be needle valve vertical (pointing up) and closed. I assume the float weight would compress the needle valve I guess you could lift it with a finger to uncompressed.

 

 

Where are the measurements to???

 

Yeah that's right Mike, the first picture you quoted is open position. Measures 51mm from carb lid surface to top of float. The second picture you quoted is with the lid turned totally upside down and needle valve is fully compressed. The first picture I posted was carb lid held vertical with tab resting on needle valve(ball) uncompressed, measures just a hair over 35mm from carb lid surface to top of float.

 

[datzenmike]

Looks right to me then.

[AlexDeLarge]

Ok thanks, just wanted ro make sure since it was my first time adjusting one.

[AlexDeLarge]

That shit was wrong. You can tell from the 2nd to last picture I posted in my original post that the float was angled down when resting on compressed ball. If I got in in spec at 35mm it was even more angled down touching a bolt on the bottom of carb lid. The 35mm/51mm spec is bullshit. The correct spec is 18mm from top carb lid surface (with gasket) to top of float with everything held vertical held at 45 degree angle so float is resting on uncompressed ball in needle valve. Full travel of needle should be 2mm, so with carb lid inverted and fully open distance from carb lid to top of float is 20mm. In essence, when float is resting on compressed ball it has to be level. 

[AlexDeLarge]

Anybody else here care to chime in on their Weber plastic float leveling procedure and specs used. I am fairly certain  I have it set up correctly but there is so much conflicting info out there and I want to make sure it's right before I install it. C'mon people give me some info...lol I'm ocd as fuck.

[nicklp]

I think you had it right in the first place, at least that's the way I just set mine up (not running or even installed on truck yet). I held it like the first picture you posted (same as the line diagram view), and used the 35mm measurement just as the tab rests on the ball, not compressing it, and with no gasket in place. I didn't mess with the max open measurement, so if anybody thinks that's essential, I hope they post up soon.

I hate to post when I don't feel like I have definitive info or experience, but it looks like you are going through the same process as I did, searching the web, looking on Youtube, finding conflicting, incomplete, half-assed bullshit information. This suggests the DGV works ok if you are in the ballpark, and that makes everybody think they did it right, so they post whatever they did.

For my fellow tool junkies out there, the picture below is the Weber or Redline tool for DGV float setting, plastic on the left (35mm; 88839.00.0328), brass on the right (measures just under 40mm, cutout seems to be so you can place it right over the power valve plunger; 88839.00.0325). Measured from the bottom of the leg to the crossbar on the inside of the horseshoe. I was expecting the brass float one to measure 41mm, maybe it has to do with measuring at the power valve plunger. This doesn't answer the gasket in place or not, or the ball compressed or not questions.... I'd love to see info directly from Weber or Redline.

Edited July 18, 2020 by nicklp
clarification

[AlexDeLarge]

All I know is that if I got the float at 35mm resting on the uncompressed ball, when it was turned right side up compressing the ball all the way in, the float was angled too far down and hitting a bolt on the carb lid.I just don't see how you could bend that tab as much as you have to ,  to get the 35mm measurement and still get a level/horizontal float to carb lid in a fully compressed ball position. The way I have it now is 18mm from gasket on carb lid to TOP of float lightly resting on uncompressed ball. Measurement from gasket to BOTTOM of float in that position is around 39/40 mm. Full drop I have about 2mm of needle valve travel and have 20/21 mm from gasket to TOP of float. Measures 50mm from gasket to BOTTOM of float in that position. Floats are level and horizontal to carb lid in fully resting position. 

 

[datzenmike]

Do you get the 2mm of closed to open needle travel, as mentioned above?

 

 

 

[AlexDeLarge]

Yes. The way I had it originally in my first post, there was probably 10-11 mm of travel, the needle valve was almost out of the seat.

Edited July 18, 2020 by AlexDeLarge

[Shortmorris]

I have been doing some research on rebuilding my 32/36 and found that those 40 mm and 50 mm were for an older model of float and the changed it to the 18 mm and 23 mm for the neoprene floats. That last documentation says 18 mm and 2 mm of travel, is that 2 mm measured at the carb power valve assembly? Does that 5 mm travel measured on the float translate to that 2 mm of travel closer to the pivot point of the float?

[pishta]

dont you just love the internet and all its BS? IIRC they used 3 floats: brass round ones, nitrophil and maybe the ones your got as my WEBER ones had a weird scalloped bottom to them. Remember there are 3 WEBER designs: Italy, >'92 Spain, and the REST (Chinese clones) Weber Italy was most likely all brass. Spain had the nitro and China used whatever. Notice angle of brackets: Weber is stepped down, 2nd is straight (?) brass is just alien..... but note the tab locations and angle of brackets. Its hard to get the float tops to 18 if the bracket is not correct, stepped or straight or otherwise without bending the sh!t out of it and altering its original shape that someone paid big money to manufacture as such. Kinda makes you wonder......

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The plastic float has an actual application. If you're curious, I believe it was a Ford Pinto. DGVs built for racing use them because they allow more fuel in the float chamber.

 

If you need any info on DGVs and quality parts, these guys are rock solid - https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4127

[pishta]

Those guys still say 35mm from the bottom of float to top of lid (with or without gasket? ball compressed or uncompressed? Level or do you measure at far edge of float?). For such an important global setting on these carbs per all the DGV web pages, its amazing that there is no "legal" (ie, cut and dry, no wiggle woom) setting for a frigging float. If you measure float with tab barely touching uncompressed ball (its a .025 compression value) at 18mm from gasket, you end up with a float that is NOT level AND is ~45mm (!) off the gasket. They don't really say weather the float is supposed to be level at this setting but if you need to get it level (just a drawn diagram) , you really have to reconstruct the factory tabs. My float will bury the ball when held horizontal so I just unscrewed the seat so the compressed ball will actually be the same height as the tab "just touching it" for measuring purposes. Then I manipulated the float to get an 18mm FAR EDGE measurement OFF THE GASKET. The (my) float itself is 27mm thick for reference, so if you need to get a Pegasus recommended float level at 35 to the BOTTOM of a 27mm float (?) , you end up with 8mm from float top to top of carb, that aint close to the "new" Redline settings of 18mm from top of float to carb top, it would be more like 45mm from bottom of float to top of carb lid...This is turning into a circle jerk. Either I got a bootleg float at 27mm or everything about measuring the plastic float on these is WRONG or is FAKE NEWS. At 18mm edge of float to gasket, the farthest edge of the float is about 44mm off the top. To get 38mm off the bottom of the float (not even 35)  the closest edge of the float is only 6mm from the top without gasket. When you get the 18mm floats to actually compress the ball, holding the top plate horizontal with the weight of the float like you set most every other carbs floats, you end up at 11mm off the GASKET with a level float. Your mileage may vary but if anyone can confirm their floats thickness and properly set up compressed ball measurement off the gasket when the top plate is horizontal with weight of the floats pushing onto the needle (maybe 11mm??) , that would be great. I see quite a few that show this position and the floats dont compress the ball, it bounces. Mine doesn't do that, it will bury that ball. I dont have a gram scale to measure if my floats are dry (11g) or saturated (>19g). Im gonna wait until someone sets me straight before I put this back together. 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The float should be level. That's all I ever check.

[StuartXTZ]

I know this is resurrecting an old conversation, but I struggled to find an answer to the float height issue myself, and couldn't get my REDLINE 32/36 DGV 5A plastic float height close to any of the recommended settings I found online - my float looks like the first photo above, with Weber cast into the plastic and with the bend in the arm adjacent the pin. 

When I set my float parallel to the base, the measurement to the bottom of the float was 39mm. Anything other than that would have required substantial bending of the arms, which seemed illogical to me.

Anyway, I hope the attached document helps anyone else searching for an answer to their float height settings.

Weber 32-36 Plastic Float Height.pdf

[pishta]

StuartXTZ, do those Redline numbers describing the float measurements jive with your float? I ditched the DGV for a smaller 32/34 Weber of a 1.6 Escort that Redline sold in 1986. It has the published jetting that had it passing California CARB smog testing. It has a weird float that is very wide and straddles one of the venturis and it DOES NOT compress the ball in the needle as the DGV does so maybe I had a saturated float but that still doesnt explain the math that didnt add up when everyone is telling me bottom of float must be x and top of float off the gasket should be y. Those never added up to the height of my Weber branded nitrophile float. 

[StuartXTZ]

I set the float to be level as mentioned by Stoffregen Motorsports above, and the car ran much better at that height, so I went looking for anything that confirmed that the 39mm height (at the top of the float) that I had was OK - that's when I stumbled across the above specs for the DFV (which is just set up in reverse to the DGV) that showed the recommended height for the nitrophyl float corresponded with the settings I had settled on.

There still seems to be a lot of the instruction sheets that recommend setting the float at 35mm or even 33mm, but I think my float has bent arms that drop it down at least 4mm.

I'm happy running the float at 39mm from the flat surface of the carb top as it looks right, and the car (Suzuki Sierra/Samurai 1324cc) is running well.

 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4127#