Sergio146

I ended up changing the thermostat and just on idling alone, I fixed the overheating issue. Prior to changing it, it overheated at idle but now it maintains the temperature sort of where it should be. I would need to drive to fully confirm that there is no overheating though.

Overheating is 1/4 under the H mark

*motorad

It was a cheap motored now that I remember being a cheap $5 one.

Does anyone know if a small coolant leak on the heater control valve can cause an overheating condition? The truck in question is a 1980 datsun 720 l20b 4x4. Thermostat was changed already as well as the water pump.

I'll look into it because as both of you have mentioned, there is play on the pinion when I grab the deiveshaft and move it up and down. I'll keep you posted on what I find.

As a person who hasn't had much experience with rear differentials, how does one go about the tools and equipment needed for setting the backlash on my 1980 datsun 720 4x4. Reason is because when I am driving at a certain speed (about 30~35mph), i hear a roaring noise on the rear of my truck but only when I accelerate. After I let go off the accelerator, the noise is gone. I have to remove the differential either way to check it but are there other things that I should look into while I'm there?

The picture with the driven clutch attached is how it looks like with the axle pushed in from the back all the way in. I thought it was easy to just push it more farther because of the grease seal in the back but even that, the axle doesn't clear enough for the snap ring to fall it the slot.

Has anyone encountered this issue when they are rebuilding the front axle from the early version Datsun 720 trucks (1980 Datsun 720) and in the process of securing the axle with the snap ring, there isn't enough clearance to place the snap ring in place? Right know I am struggling to understand what I have done wrong since according to the Service manual, I followed the exploded view of the entire front axle. There is something that I added to both of the axles and some insight of the parts that I am rebuilding: both outside wheel bearings were changed from the original NSK bearing and races to a KOYO bearing and race and the Inner bearing and race are still the original factory NSK (both bearings have number LM104949). Have installed the original wheel bearing collar with stamp #7 (Thickness: 28.28mm [1.1134 inches]), Wheel bearing support has stamping on the back reading Y17.

Oil drained and filled with 4 quarts and it reads a tad below the full mark.

Would like to verify whether the oil dipstick is the right one or if it's from another engine. Reason is because it looks the the previous owner cut the oil dipstick on purpose to make it fit.

Just to be sure that I am getting the right part, is this the correct part?

Nice, thanks for the part number, does anyone know how to get to the seal whether I would need to pry it out with a pry bar or with a variation of a bearing puller?

Hello, does anyone know if there is a seal/gasket that would need to be replaced on a front differential 1980 datsun 720 4x4?