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Lots to do, i didnt adjust shoes then stab the brake pedal to center the adjuster and continue adjusting. I'll try that next. additionally i bled the mc on the vehicle but did it with the pushrod attached to the pedal arm. will detach the pushrod from pedal arm and do over. incidently i did bench bleed the mc in a vise with a hose and tube back to the resevoir. I did have to cut the pedal arm as mklotz77 indicated so that necessitated removing the mc once more. As an aside, my wifey was helping me bleed the system, i was at the pass side rear and had already bled the system into a bleed jar so she was going to get best pedal and i was going to crack the bleeder to make sure air was out of the system. we did one pass at right rear and told her get the best pedal while i cracked the bleeder one last time. she pumped it up, and before i could crack the bleeder i heard the pedal hit the floor and all the brake fluid exited the long line from the diverter through a hole in the line an onto the floor. This of course left absolutely no brakes at all on any corner. i was really glad that line popped when it did, i could see running up on a vehicle, stop sign or whatever ,hitting the brake and nothing there, and with a single mc system the sequence of events would not end well. all this prompted me to replace the hard lines and i just bought a roll of nicu and worked from that. that stuff works well and flares with a standard flaring tool commonly available as a rental from parts stores. just be aware, if you're tooling around in a single mc version of the 520/521 or early 620 and havnt replaced the hard lines particularly the long line from the diverter to the rear brakes and the brake hoses, you're living on borrowed time. when those lines go they go in a way that gets you looking for a soft place to land and often there aint one.

I've read several of the posts on brakes here on the forum and still have a question about brake adjustment on my 521. I installed all most brake components new from the master cylinder down to the new shoes with exception of rear brake springs and front hard brake lines. up to this point i've bench bled the master cylinder at least three time and the wheel cylinders more than that. i've adjusted the brakes to a light drag and still i cannot get a good hard pedal. initially the pedal feels good just sitting in the truck but when driven it takes some effort to get the truk to stop and the pedal goes almost to the floor. At this point i'm beginning to suspect i have a bad "new" brake master cylinder but the one thing i didnt do was to adjust the shoes as described in one of the posts i.e. adjust till hard to turn wheel step on brake hard and if the wheel can still be turned adjust some more , etc. Is this important or is one try to adjust till hard to turn sufficient. Its been a long time since i drove a vehicle with 4 wheel drums so i dont remember how good(bad) these things are supposed to be.

Thanks for letting me know you have the parts, I think i have all the pins and springs i need just need the clips. Thanks again

A bit of research and i found spring attachment clips at napa, believe these will work if i can find a place to clip them. Thanks

When i bought the truck both clutch and brake pedals were on the floor. I've installed new clutch master and brake master cylinders but cannot figure out where to connect the return spring for the brake pedal . my repair manual shows a 521 pedal assembly with spring attached at a point on the pedal moiunt connection pin but no detail where it attaches to the body. any help on where to connect the spring appreciated Thanks

any leads on rear brake hose part number, a good source for the hose etc. ordered one from local parts and it looked correct but wrong male thread for the brass distribution union. Thanks DH

try moss motor sports, select shop by model select the 100, 100-6, 3000 from left side menu select suspension then front suspension. i purchased the fulcrum pin part 65 and it is a direct replacement for the datsun fulcrum pin (for my 521). the other parts associated with the fulcrum pin may work also they appear to be the same or similar.

Try moss motor sports. once at the site select shop by model and select the big healy's 100, 100-6, 3000. left menu select suspension then front suspension, part number 52 is the cotter bolt and i believe it will work, no guarantees because i havnt tried that part. i did buy the fulcrum pin part 65 and it is a direct replacement for the datsun fulcrum pin. i suspect the other parts 68 and 70 and the seals 69 will work also.

continuing, i've started it a couple of time and no smoking although run time was seconds. still sorting out coolant and heater hoses and still havnt got fuel tank back from shop. on to other things front brakes redone as well as new fulcrum pins, did i mention i discovered the big Healy fulcrum pins are the same as the Datsun pins. good info for anyone searching for pins, and cheap also, relatively speaking that is.

yeh finally figured out the bajno end is a separate piece and found the hoses at local parts store.

Yeh, seems like the 521 forum is working out, great folks and lots of good info.

As it turns out, i looked at the end of the banjo fitting and sure enough the end of the hose had a hex end that appeared to be removable. after application of freeall and heat the hose end detached from the banjo end. looks like those hoses indicated to fit the 521 do actually work. thanks again DH

yep this piece has been put together so it cant be disassembled. I'll look for a suitable replacement that can be fitted without stacking washers etc. anyone out there with knowledge of a good replacement let me know.

Checked my Chilton Foreign Car Repair Manual, French, British, Japanese Cars, vol II and it shows similar setup as mine, the hollow bolt is referred to as a connector bolt. In Chilton this particular application is for a 520, the 521 although the model is included in this manual.

on this truck there is the banjo fitting at the end of the brake hose, a hollow bolt to carry brake fluid hat fits thru the banjo and threads into the wheel cylinder. the bolt has an open end where the bleeder screw fits. a sort of mdcf of a setup but it apparently worked except for the part where parts are nla.