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Everything posted by debbheff@gmail.com

  1. Time Left: 1 month and 1 day

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I need the heater hose outlet that screws into the rear right side of the head of L16 motor. Mine is corroded with holes so i need a good used replacement. let me know what you have. shipping would be to virginia 24210. Thanks GH


  2. Looks like all the numbers match. 1 number 1, 3 number 3's
  3. good point carbon build up on ring lands and rings. guess that settles it, out she comes. btw, i had shop replace the broken guide, reseated the all valves just to make sure any carbon was addressed, new nissan seals installed, machinist went over the valves and indicated all the stems were within spec and guides were in good serviceable condition. Head is ready to go, now on to the block.
  4. lots to think about, i've considered whoever put it together didnt know what they were doing. going to put it together to see what happens next. hopefully all will be good and it starts and runs.
  5. Thats about it, no valve sealing as intended thru use of valve seals at least on the broken guide at number 4 exhaust, number four exhibited heavy oiling all the others exhibited typical oiling of intake and exhaust runners like you would expect if the valve seals were worn out, in this case the seals were the wrong seal, too big so pulled oil past the seals. on number four the seal remained on the broken part of the guide. when i was pulling the seals off the guides, number four practically fell out in my fingers and thought hmmmm, thats odd came off to easy, then looked at s
  6. More info, no bent valves, no evidence the valve spring retainer hit the guide on number 4.
  7. Thanks, i did the trick with the copper pipe. as i recall, you mentioned that in another discussion, good info. Checked the head straight all three ways, block straight too. Could be the sealant had been there for a while and the more i think about it the more i'm inclined to bite the bullet and pull it apart, would really be the smart thing to do although smart aint my long suit. Those compression numbers are a head scratcher for me too. i double checked the low number and was really mystified the high number after oiling the cylinder. just a fyi, the intake manifold was
  8. Thanks, i did the trick with the copper pipe. as i recall, you mentioned that in another discussion, good info. Checked the head straight all three ways, block straight too. Could be the sealant had been there for a while and the more i think about it the more i'm inclined to bite the bullet and pull it apart, would really be the smart thing to do although smart aint my long suit.
  9. Thanks, I may just pull the pistons out to check the rings, number 4 had dry compression of app 40 psi and wet compression of approx 150 so among the things that could cause that is collapsed rings from overheating. PO had installed a new head gasket and did not have or reinstall the locating pins in the top of the block. the headgasket was not installed to align the coolant holes in the block with the holes in the block and there was sufficient evidence to indicate there was a lot of sealer poured into the coolant system for what i'm assuming was a leak at the back of the head. I'm thin
  10. that makes sense especially considering mass production. I would expect the piston weights to be within spec for balancing when using a "bin" approach to fitting pistons to bores. Looks like what i have here is a motor that has not been bored and is retaining pistons originally installed.
  11. I'm working on my 521 L16 and came across numbers stamped into the block and matching numbers stamped into the pistons. number one cylinder is has a piston stamped with number 1 stamped into it and block has corresponding 1 stamped into it on intake side of block. The remaining pistons (2 thru 4)are stamped with number 3 with 3 stamped on block on the intake side. no other numbers on pistons to indicate size, over size etc. Does anyone have info into what these numbers mean. Thanks DH
  12. I discovered that when i tried to fit the the 620 seat to the 521. no real problem with the mounts but the upper seat back hit the "b" billar. My fix was to take the grinder with a cutoff wheel and reduce the section of the upper corner. Pull the seatcover material over the corner and hog ring it back and it works. since this is not a stressed area of the vehicle i decided the section reduction woudln't be a problem. Still need to get it covered or get a good seat cover, not sure which way it will go. I had a d21 seat but it was going to take way too many mods to make it fit,
  13. I picked up an early 620 seat today, actually in fair condition considering its age. driver side seat bottom is in bad shape but the rest would be classified as good condition daily driver. which leads me to my question. does anyone know of a source for original seat pattern material.
  14. will a 75 620 seat fit my 72 521. it appears the 620 seat will fit but may need some modification to fit the 521 mounts. any help appreciated Thanks DH
  15. Time Left: 10 days and 16 minutes

    • WANTED
    • NEW

    I know this isnt the part of the forum for this but I cant quite figure where to get information i need on seats and interchange. None of the discussions on the 521 truck section on this site appear to be current so i'm hesitant to start a new discussion where it appears no one reads those sections. Here goes, I need a seat for my 72 521 and have access to a seat from a 75 620. the question is will the 75 620 seat fit the 72 521. I checked general info avail on a google search and the seat appears to be close to the same dimensions but the mounting method may be different. I checked fitment of d21 seat and while it fits, the dimensions are different so the headrest doesnt line up with the centerline of the steering wheel and the cutout for the shifter is wider which moves the sitting position toward the door and off center with the steering wheel. any info appreciated Thanks DH


    - US

  16. debbheff@gmail.com


    Are speaking of the water pump locating pins or the timing cover locating pins. the timing cover locating pins are in the block in this l16 motor, not sure about the water pump pins actually havnt paid attention to those because ive been concentrating on the timing cover. may be the pins remained in the block, I'll check tomorrow and will also check to see if the locating pin holes are not ovaled. thanks for the heads up
  17. debbheff@gmail.com


    Fortunately those locating pins are still on the block, with the reservations i'm beginning to have about the previous build i guess i should be thankful theyre there. still trying to figure out the clearance issues with the cover and the bottom of the head the gasket surface of the oil pan. I'll be taking your advice and using rtv on the head/cover and the oil pan/cover interfaces. I still have a compression issue that hopefully will solve itself once i get it started l and up to operating temp. hoping its a stuck ring.
  18. RE: forum links to info for adding photo's. all seems too difficult to set up a url so i can stick pics in a folder then reference that site to add photos. really? cant find a simpler solution? Guess i wont be adding photos to discussions on this site.
  19. thanks although not needed for cam breakin on ohc engines i still use gm eos on the cam before start up. just makes me feel better that i have that sticky lube on the cam before oil pressure comes up and there's oil circulating throughout. additionally i use valvoline vr1 all the time. my newer cars i just use a good grade of whatever mfg calls for, generally castrol there may are higher zinc oils than vr1 on the market but vr1 is affordable and seems to work good for street use.
  20. Yeh wish mine would have been in that good shape. I had serious corrosion including holing, thought about jbweld but figured this piece was beyond that. Making new gaskets for block /cover interface will use rtv on the head/ oil pan interface. would post pics but havn't figured that one out and cant find a tutorial using simple search on this site. how about a some instructions on posting pics or where i can find that info on the site.
  21. debbheff@gmail.com


    I did a dry fit this morning, pushed the timing cover all the way on to the pins and measured the distance between the top and head gasket surface and the botton and oil pan surface. top measrement around .029 bottom measuremtent less than .010 , old head gasket material i removed approx .049 +-. No wonder the cover wouldnt push past the head gasket material. Something definitely amiss here. (no head gasket because i had cut it out). looked at the mating surface of the oil pan and the block and noted red rtv and what appears to be synthetic gasket much thinner than a cork gasket.
  22. debbheff@gmail.com


    yeh, actually done it several times bmw's datsuns no problems. quick story how i got here, truck sitting since 97, it actually started so i thougtht no problems. got it home began draining fluids and noted no fluid came out of the rear drain plug for the block until i poked around and it started to drain indicating some corrosion,. pulled the heater hose diverter and it was so corroded part of it is missing, pulled the water pump and so corroded three vanes were missing now rust, in a sludgy material. timing cover so corroded there is a hole between passages. I purchased a used
  23. debbheff@gmail.com


    The front seal from the felpro kit is correct, just installed one, however the timing cover gaskets are thicker than the original which leads to a number of install problems including not allowing the bolts holes in the timing cover to line up with the flange holes in the front of the head. long story short, those gaskets caused me no end of trouble trying to install the timing cover. now i have to buy a new timing cover set install a new head gasket and possibly have the timing cover surfaced.
  24. can you really do that to these lightly braced cracker boxes with out causing permanent warps in places you depend on for accurate suspension measurements., reinstalling glass, doors etc to make sure it goes back together straight. I occasionally watch a tv program where a car is being restored and on a rotisserie and there are numerous braces welded to the body to keep it as straight as when it entered the shop. I really wouldnt do this to a 510 without some cross and lateral bracing to make sure the body doesnt twist or bend. Some 510 woiuldn't survive rotesserie without bracing because
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