TommyBsolid

19 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Hopefully you did not turn the cam to set anything.

I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂

Thanks for the reply. I wasn't aware of the punch marks being for installation specifically. Though I don’t know if it ran or not when I bought it. I drained the oil and coolant/oil slag came out, I just started taking it apart at that point. I set the crank/cam aligned with the punch marks & silver links and made sure to install the dizzy spindle aligned with TDC. I checked for spark and it was good, the plugs were spotless and i realized I had no fuel delivery. I quickly dropped the fuel tank, pulled the pump and tested it directly to 12v battery. Pump worked, tested fuel pump relay and worked. I was puzzled for a sec, I then followed the wire harness coming into the cab from the relay and discovered I forgot to plug it into the ecu while I was cleaning the ratted out cab. Starts up flawlessly, water pump is leaking and was most likely the reason for the blown head gasket.

What I got out of this is the wire color codes going to the fuel pump.
86 Nissan D21 Pickup

Black: Ground

White/Purple stripe: Pump +
Blue/Red stripe: Pump -

Yellow solid: Fuel Gauge

Yellow/Green stripe: Fuel Light

I was replacing the head gasket off a z24i and my chain fell loose causing the tensioner to jam up. I had to remove the timing cover and I soon realized the cam was 180 degrees out while the crank punch mark was lined up with the chain link. I flipped it and I'm now wondering if the distributor is 180 degrees out since it cranks but wont fire. I made sure to align the spindle punch mark with the oil hole on the oil pump before installing. does the oil pump/distributor spindle rotate 1:1 with the crank?

It’s 3/8” thick, has a high pitch ring so it must be hardened. Very nice and useful tool.

Searched all over for a closed end crowfoot wrench with 1/2" drive to be able to torque the mainshaft nut. I will take apart the transmission off the frame I towed and replace the bearings if necessary, I didn't realize the guy had basically drained the transmission by pulling out the speedometer gear and then putting it back in. I should have disconnected the driveshaft to keep the output shaft from spinning, oh well... good thoughts come later.

I was able to find one in a dark corner of the internet: https://www.quadratec.com/products/16312_1120.htm

I measured the main shaft nut on my '82 transmission and it is 38mm or 1-1/2". Does anyone know if this is true for all 71Bs? How about 71Cs? I was reading a pdf about the 71C and it mentioned the main shaft nut is 41mm or 1-5/8". Could anyone confirm or deny this allegation?

https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/MU/05muranosl/2013-01-18_205544_mt.pdf

search for ST22520000 in the pdf. My '82 FSM has this part number as well for the tool, but I measured my '82 FS5W71B and its 38mm?

This transmission could very well have been rebuilt. The bearings look excellent, there are also signs of someone prying & scraping gasket material off. The main shaft nut is barely staked. It's certainly possible someone used a different sized nut during rebuild.

Why settle for one when you can have both? Picked up the frame today, came complete with an engine and drivetrain. Tons of misc. parts like wiring harness, gauge cluster, even has an A/C pump. I couldn’t help myself 🙂

I still don't know what I’m going to do with it. If anyone needs parts pm me.

Most don't have the time/patience to go through the process of replacing the gasket. It doesn’t cost much but is fairly time consuming, and you have to be careful with not accidentally dropping something into the timing cover. While I had my ‘85 apart I set a razor I was using to clean off the gasket residue down somewhere along the engine bay, I then hear a metallic cling and clang as it fell down somewhere (I don't remember where I set it down last). I tried my best to scope out the bottom of the timing cover with a stick magnet thinking it fell down in there. Had a heart palpitation when I heard the noise, didn’t find it down there or anywhere for that matter. It just seemed to fall down in some nook in the engine bay. Engine has been running for a month with no sign of anything wrong. Long story short you have to be very careful while executing the repair, lack of knowledge on how to do the repair plus fear of messing something up ends up in alot of vehicles for sale that need simple repairs. This is not only true for engine repairs but transmission/suspension/electrical/drivetrain as well. It pays to be mechanically inclined.

I came across a 1986 D21 Hard Body with a Z24i. Same story as my ‘85 Z24, blown head gasket. It was too good of a deal to pass up. I might throw on my Mustang SVO turbo on this one and send it. Its a standard cab 2wd, gold/green paint. Interior needs work, but engine looks to be in good shape. I figured since I don't have all the time I would need to complete a cab swap as soon as I would like to I opted for this. I must say its a sweet little truck I will have alot of fun with 🙂

My plan for it is to find a 1998-2016 Frontier donor and swap in the KA24DE, also turbo it making a KA24DET. It will be straight piped anyway, so I wont be able to take it anywhere near California. Washington recently eliminated ALL emissions testing on any model/year. Not having this as a daily driver, really going to orient it as a recreational track/drift truck. Will have coil overs, KA trans and diff, 720 frame originally came with Z24. All of this with a 620 cab would be a dream come true.

The 720 is an ‘85, has a 17 digit vin. Looked it up and it checks out. The 620 on the other hand will have to be called in, I have not found a cab yet. The owner of the  720 frame is keeping the cab, therefore most likely keeping the title and registering the vin.

You don't necessarily have to call DMV, there are plenty of sites to be able to check VIN history & discrepancies. I live in Washington. I will try to get a copy of the title and definitely a bill of sale. I will register it with the cab vin and take to court if ever comes to it (highly doubt it). As long as its not stolen, and you have proof of ownership, nothing to worry about.
Regarding the steering link, I will have to see if I can put an intermediate shaft between the column and box. I could fabricate a shaft with u-joints to get the angle. I don't have the frame or cab yet, will cross the bridge when I get there.

I will be picking up a 720 king cab frame soon. My question is, will a 620 KC fit on the frame without any modifications? And how would I go about registering it? Which VIN do I use on the title(frame or cab), what documents would I need to receive from the sellers for proof of ownership in case it gets inspected? I am thinking a copy of the title, and a bill of sale. Anything else I would need?

FS5W71B. Had a bit of trouble taking off the front case of the transmission. It would slide off about 1/4” and get jammed against the front input shaft bearing.

I wedged a piece of wood in between the center plate and the front case to keep the case from sliding back.

I then used a punch to lightly and evenly knock back the front input shaft bearing.(The input shaft has about 3/8” of free back and forth movement)

Success!

It’s a generic GT15 flange.

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32954261270.html

I could try to make my own, the dimensions are posted on the blog I linked

earlier.

It looks a bit rusted from weathering, rather than heat expansion/contraction. I don’t think ill have too much difficulty removing the bolts without snapping them. I could also squirt carb cleaner in the compressor housing to clean it. Idk what I would do about the turbine. I would rather take it apart and clean it up rather than running the risk of having rust go through the turbine wheel at speed.

Got lucky with this find, barely any shaft play.

Model#: 028145701j

These came on the mark 3 Jetta/Golf TDIs with the AHU engine code. A bit rusted, good news its been sitting for a bit rather than wearing out 😏. Bad news I will most likely have to take off the compressor and turbine housings to clean them 😒. The compressor housing has EGR residue, leading me to believe the EGR piping was pre-turbo on the TDI. I inserted a quarter in the photos for scale.

Album: https://ibb.co/album/c6MXmF

I found the model number for the TDI turbo, it’s a GT15. Found a used one online and am in the process of having it shipped. I was going to use the 2.3l turbo but I really don't think it would be a good result. I’ll keep you posted on what happens.

http://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2011/02/garrett-gt15-gt1544-both-150-hp-turbos.html?m=1

I drove it for a while and the exhaust cleaned up. I adjusted the idle to be about 1K and its running great.

I threw on a set of 17” 245/65. Had to bang out the front wheel wells for clearance, they really do fill up the empty space. A few rubs here and there but nothing a ball peen hammer cant fix. Ordered 25mm spacers for the fronts to clear the steering rack and bring the poke out to match the rears.

I checked out the choke and it seemed stuck closed. When I would budge the throttle it would open. I greased up the fast idle/choke link and it seems to work now. Adjusted the idle screw and idling at 1K. The smoke blowing out the exhaust was coolant left over from the blown head gasket, has been running for an hour and cleaned up quite well. Still smokes a bit, not sure if its coolant burning off or a rich mixture. Engine sounds healthy at idle. Will drive it soon to heat up the exhaust burning all coolant off

Well, I just read up on what the fast idle rpm should be and it’s 2600-3000rpm for the z24 according to the FSM. So this seems normal, although it does seem excessive. I would imagine the necessary cold start rpm being 1200~. I will try bringing the fast idle screw down to the 3rd cam. Anyone have any info on what the hot idle rpm should be on the z24? I could do some digging and find it tho I’m about to pass out

Got it put back together. Tried starting it without the ignition coil fuse to get the new oil filter pumped up, and to my surprise it started up and ran for a few seconds before dying. I gave it another shot and it started no problem, no more coolant out the exhaust. Although it does idle quite high and rich on cold, smokes white out the exhaust but it just smells like fuel. It starts up at about 2Krpm and quickly goes down to about 1Krpm then immediately goes back up to 2K and stays there. It even idled at 3K one of the times. I remember starting it before I bought it and it also had a fast idle about 2-3K, so i doubt I introduced any issues when I took the head off. Besides I didn't mess with the carb, I left the entire intake inside the engine bay supported by a plank of wood. I will try adjusting the fast idle screw tomorrow, any ideas what else I should try?

Where would be the best spot to tap into an oil feed be. What about the drain, I can imagine the alternator feed and drain being convenient

Thinking about what I intend to use my truck for, I don’t necessarily need to have a quick acceleration and I don’t mind turbo lag. The real reason I want to turbo the diesel in the first place is to be able to have the torque of a modern-ish diesel and not a limp guzzler. Acceleration is not my concern, I dont mind spending a couple dozen seconds to get up to speed. The part that bugs me is at higher speeds it really does seem like its running out of steam. Under load I wont have any issue spooling the 2.3L turbo, will it be a slow spool... yes. Will it run out of steam on the top end... not a chance. I have a z24 truck I will be using for a while (btw just put the head back on last night, will buy fluids and spark plugs tomorrow to fire it up 🙂) I also have a 2003 330i BMW and that is a great car for when you want to go quick. I really am interested in seeing the result of having this 2.3L gas turbo on my 2.2L diesel. Again if it wont build boost I can always opt for a smaller one (It would be a 1.9L TDI turbo if I had to choose).

Yea you did get lucky i’m jealous. I think since the TDI 1Z/AHU (turbo pictured above) is a common diesel engine, 1.9L and max hp at 4000rpm / torque at 2000rpm, this makes the turbo a perfect fit. It was introduced in 96’ so the volumetric efficiency is likely better than the SD series, the CFM should be very similar between the two. I will be on the look out for one of these turbos

TDI is Volkswagen's turbo diesel engine. They had them as an option in all their models passat beetle jetta golf since 2000. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TDI_(engine)

It's much more suited for this build,

It almost reminds me of your XT turbo.

I may have to bring it over to get a second opinion. I’d take a second look at your XT turbo to see how it sizes up to this one. I definitely wouldn't want to put in all the work just to find out I can‘t make boost. I was thinking maybe find a VW 1.9 TDI turbo at a junk yard