TommyBsolid

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I will post pictures next week. Frame is stripped down to the core, no rear axel or front hubs/suspension. It is a king cab frame. Seller had sawed off the front end of the cab from fire wall, just another piece on the scrap list if anyone is interested. Good wheel wells and engine compartment. Also selling a gasoline fuel tank for Z series.

I am getting rid of the rotted out blue rhino’d cab. Its an ‘82, needs an entire new floor pan repair. Anyone want it? I am letting go of the bed as well. Not gonna lie it’s a lot of rust. Free or its going to scrap. Hit me up if you want it. I also have an ‘85 720 frame that is stripped down. It’s in good condition barely any surface rust. Also going to scrap. I would like at least $100 for it, but willing to let it go for free if anyone has a project in mind that needs a frame. I have a trailer, I can deliver in the PDX area for a fee.

1986 z24i 4x4 ST

Take a look at this diamond in the rough!

How do you know the sparks stop when you stomp on the throttle?

Be sure that its 5 degrees before tdc, so the mark on the crank pulley should be to the left of the 0 on the degree plate.

Do the centers of the cylinders between the block and head? Timing chain & cam? Would it bolt on? What sort of modifications to the head gasket would be required? Would I use a Z24 or L20B gasket? Would there br any benefits to suck a conversion? Reason I’m asking is I’m thinking of turboing a Z24 and it would be nice to have intake and exhaust on one side, I have also read that the L series heads have a better port angle allowing more air flow.

Make sure you plug the correct lines to the 5 metal lines welded to the air filter housing. Take a look at the vacuum diagram and make sure everything is piped correctly when you assemble it.

Take a look at the wiring diagram and trace the wires going to the coils, could be a bad connection somewhere. When I was testing my z24i the intake side didn’t spark on idle, there are vacuum lines going to 2 units on the passenger side of the engine bay attached to the fender, these monitor vacuum and select if either both intake and exhaust fire or just exhaust, double check all vacuum lines to make sure you don't have an intake leak.

I would start be trying to clear the codes, 23 and 24 are always there when you start the diagnostics setting on the ECU. Get rid of 23 by pressing in the throttle pedal, and get rid of 24 by pressing in clutch and putting it in any gear, wait, then back into neutral. 11 could be a bad CAS, let me know if you need info on how to test it, 21 is ignition signal missing in primary coil. Check spark, if no spark you may have a bad coil. Lift the cap off of your distributor and make sure it looks like it should, the CAS is attached right on the distributor so you may have a compound issue there idk, let me know what you find

When did it stop idling? Was it after pulling the TPS? I have a 1986 service manual with info on z24i, will be going home in a bit and I can post pics on how to test tps. Check spark by pulling one plug at a time and cranking (dont forget you need the thread of the spark plug against a grounded surface, anywhere metal in the engine bay will work). Disconnect injectors so the engine doesn't start. If your not getting spark it could be your coil. Another way you could test is using a timing gun, if you know your spark plugs are good and its not shorting the gap. Btw have you checked timing? If you are getting a code for crank angle sensor I can post picks of how to check that as well. Do you have already have access to a FSM just so I’m not being redundant? I would have offered to come over and take a look if you were any closer to the PDX area, It’s ofter very hard to give useful help through posts when there are multiple issues at play which I suspect is the case.

Aww man, once again USA gets left out of the desirable traits on automobiles. I know Australia has a majority of diesel vehicles and I have thought about moving there not too long ago, but I love the north west too much 😕

$5K is a bit too rich for my blood, although I had no idea 720s came in 4 door! I actually thought about how cool it would be to have a 4 door 720. Is this custom or did they make a model like that from factory?

I know a friend through a friend that lives in Australia. I don’t know what site/channel people down there use to post parts, I’ll do some research. 25 or 23 doesn't matter much to me, its a hobby I enjoy digging into. I will in the meantime start on the 620 cab swap and set my sights on figuring a way to turbo the SD series with a 33T governor using my 22 as a test bed

I am thinking of importing an SD23 from australia and dropping it into the 4x4 with 4.1 in the rear and using it as an off road dune bug toy. I will try deleting the throttle body and attaching an SD33T governor I bought a while back, I still have it in my garage. I have thought about it and it seems like it could be a good fit. The 23 has a shorter stroke than the 22 and 25 but same bore diameter as the 25. The shorter stroke allows it to rev higher than either of the other 2. A friend of mine has a 620 that I might purchase from him to swap it on the 22 and use it as a daily driver, the fuel economy and power is good stock.

@wayno I need your help making a decision about what to do with my SD22. Since you are the only person I know of with a turbo’d SD series, you think a turbo’d 22 would have enough power to push a 2wd with 3.7 rear diff? How about a 4x4 with 4.1? You think I could use a 3.9 on the 4x4?

@wayno I don't necessarily need any parts at the moment. I am looking for an SD23 or 25 engine though. I am thinking about using the 4x4 KC frame and swapping a diesel into it, it currently has a z24. I know that I would have to modify the engine mounts, as well as the oil pan for clearance, would a Z 4x4 oil pan fit on an SD? Having a diesel 4x4 would be clutch for off-road.

I bought a 1984 720 KC today on the cheap. It's a 4x4 Z24, the cab is in decent shape. I will strip it down, fix a few dents and paint it a nice color. I think the blue cab is beyond repair, the entire floor is rusting apart. The passenger side has already been patched up with sheet metal, screws, and expanding foam. I would have to remove the cab to repair it, the radiator mount is also rusted through on the passenger side, battery compartment is unrecognizable. I may have an attempt to weld in new metal if I have time, it will take a lot of work. The entire floor is beginning to rust, even behind the seats. I guess there is a reason it is covered in rhino. Definitely an unfortunate discovery, I wouldn't be surprised if it spent a year flooded, it's that bad. I will be piecing together the parts from both cabs together to have a nice hybrid. If anyone has any experience with repairing this sort of rust damage I would like to hear from you 🙂

I have had a similar problem with a D21 Z24i, slowly opening throttle was the only way to get it to rev up or it would stall. I don't know about the tach dropping to zero, mine didn't have a tachometer. My problem was timing being too retarded, check your timing with a timing gun, make a mark on the crank pulley to see it easier, use exhaust spark plug wire on cyl#1. Specs of how many degrees before TDC should be label on the underside of the hood, the distributor unbolts and can rotate to adjust timing. Also the timing begins to advance as throttle opens up and vacuum in the intake manifold builds, set the timing while engine is idling. Hope this helps.

I have the transmission back in. I haven't had time to fabricate the turbo piping yet, I plan on doing that in the future. I have torn out the floor liner in the cab and I was shocked by what I found, it's rusted straight through. I am going to either patch up this floor pan or replace the cab, a 620 cab would be interesting. @wayno what sort of parts does he have? I would like to find an SD25 or SD23 if possible, transmission front case, alternator, starter, injector pump, DPC module, power steering pump/steering box, I would even consider buying a whole diesel truck. Anything pertaining to datsun diesel I'll collect.

Well, I bought a timing gun and it was retarded. I installed the spindle 1 tooth off, because they are helical gears you need to insert the spindle slightly advanced to get it to line up correctly. Fires up and runs smooth across all rpms. It came back to my original thread title 😆

The thermostat works, there is no problem getting up to temperature. This is an ‘86 D21, I checked the codes and nothing came up. I took off the carb unit to check it out. I have no idea whats going on, it runs good on idle when cold, gets worse when hot. The temp also starts to rise above operating temp, this could be due to a rich mix. Is there any manual way of adjusting the fuel mix like on a Z24 non-i? Also, when opening throttle there is a hiss sound like vacuum leak near the carb, could it cause this sort of problem? Note: I didn't rev it to begin with, only idle. I first changed the water pump and ran into the issue above, I then changed the thermostat and there was no change (other than the engine not overheating as bad)

I also ordered a new thermostat. I replaced both today, I have run into a problem. When engine is cold it idles well, open the throttle too much and it runs rich and starts to stall (blows transparent white smoke and smells like fuel). This gets worse when at operating temperature it starts stalling on idle, I have to nudge the throttle just to keep it going, although again open it up and it stalls. I will check codes on the ECU lights tomorrow, it must be something wrong with the fuel mixture control. I’m thinking O2 sensor, leaky injector, MAF. Other thoughts throttle position, vacuum leak, valve clearance?