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TommyBsolid

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About TommyBsolid

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    Newbie

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  • Location
    Vancouver, WA
  • Cars
    1982 Datsun 720 SD22, 1985 Nissan 720 Z24
  • Interests
    God, Family, Work, Datsun
    in that order

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  1. Well, I bought a timing gun and it was retarded. I installed the spindle 1 tooth off, because they are helical gears you need to insert the spindle slightly advanced to get it to line up correctly. Fires up and runs smooth across all rpms. It came back to my original thread title 😆
  2. The thermostat works, there is no problem getting up to temperature. This is an ‘86 D21, I checked the codes and nothing came up. I took off the carb unit to check it out. I have no idea whats going on, it runs good on idle when cold, gets worse when hot. The temp also starts to rise above operating temp, this could be due to a rich mix. Is there any manual way of adjusting the fuel mix like on a Z24 non-i? Also, when opening throttle there is a hiss sound like vacuum leak near the carb, could it cause this sort of problem? Note: I didn't rev it to begin with, only idle. I first changed the water pump and ran into the issue above, I then changed the thermostat and there was no change (other than the engine not overheating as bad)
  3. I also ordered a new thermostat. I replaced both today, I have run into a problem. When engine is cold it idles well, open the throttle too much and it runs rich and starts to stall (blows transparent white smoke and smells like fuel). This gets worse when at operating temperature it starts stalling on idle, I have to nudge the throttle just to keep it going, although again open it up and it stalls. I will check codes on the ECU lights tomorrow, it must be something wrong with the fuel mixture control. I’m thinking O2 sensor, leaky injector, MAF. Other thoughts throttle position, vacuum leak, valve clearance?
  4. Yes it is. I ordered a new water pump to replace the old leaky&squeaky one
  5. I unbolted the caps on the cam to prevent valve lift while I flipped the cam 🙂
  6. Thanks for the reply. I wasn't aware of the punch marks being for installation specifically. Though I don’t know if it ran or not when I bought it. I drained the oil and coolant/oil slag came out, I just started taking it apart at that point. I set the crank/cam aligned with the punch marks & silver links and made sure to install the dizzy spindle aligned with TDC. I checked for spark and it was good, the plugs were spotless and i realized I had no fuel delivery. I quickly dropped the fuel tank, pulled the pump and tested it directly to 12v battery. Pump worked, tested fuel pump relay and worked. I was puzzled for a sec, I then followed the wire harness coming into the cab from the relay and discovered I forgot to plug it into the ecu while I was cleaning the ratted out cab. Starts up flawlessly, water pump is leaking and was most likely the reason for the blown head gasket. What I got out of this is the wire color codes going to the fuel pump. 86 Nissan D21 Pickup Black: Ground White/Purple stripe: Pump + Blue/Red stripe: Pump - Yellow solid: Fuel Gauge Yellow/Green stripe: Fuel Light
  7. I was replacing the head gasket off a z24i and my chain fell loose causing the tensioner to jam up. I had to remove the timing cover and I soon realized the cam was 180 degrees out while the crank punch mark was lined up with the chain link. I flipped it and I'm now wondering if the distributor is 180 degrees out since it cranks but wont fire. I made sure to align the spindle punch mark with the oil hole on the oil pump before installing. does the oil pump/distributor spindle rotate 1:1 with the crank?
  8. It’s 3/8” thick, has a high pitch ring so it must be hardened. Very nice and useful tool.
  9. Searched all over for a closed end crowfoot wrench with 1/2" drive to be able to torque the mainshaft nut. I will take apart the transmission off the frame I towed and replace the bearings if necessary, I didn't realize the guy had basically drained the transmission by pulling out the speedometer gear and then putting it back in. I should have disconnected the driveshaft to keep the output shaft from spinning, oh well... good thoughts come later. I was able to find one in a dark corner of the internet: https://www.quadratec.com/products/16312_1120.htm I measured the main shaft nut on my '82 transmission and it is 38mm or 1-1/2". Does anyone know if this is true for all 71Bs? How about 71Cs? I was reading a pdf about the 71C and it mentioned the main shaft nut is 41mm or 1-5/8". Could anyone confirm or deny this allegation? https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/MU/05muranosl/2013-01-18_205544_mt.pdf search for ST22520000 in the pdf. My '82 FSM has this part number as well for the tool, but I measured my '82 FS5W71B and its 38mm? This transmission could very well have been rebuilt. The bearings look excellent, there are also signs of someone prying & scraping gasket material off. The main shaft nut is barely staked. It's certainly possible someone used a different sized nut during rebuild.
  10. Why settle for one when you can have both? Picked up the frame today, came complete with an engine and drivetrain. Tons of misc. parts like wiring harness, gauge cluster, even has an A/C pump. I couldn’t help myself 🙂 I still don't know what I’m going to do with it. If anyone needs parts pm me.
  11. Most don't have the time/patience to go through the process of replacing the gasket. It doesn’t cost much but is fairly time consuming, and you have to be careful with not accidentally dropping something into the timing cover. While I had my ‘85 apart I set a razor I was using to clean off the gasket residue down somewhere along the engine bay, I then hear a metallic cling and clang as it fell down somewhere (I don't remember where I set it down last). I tried my best to scope out the bottom of the timing cover with a stick magnet thinking it fell down in there. Had a heart palpitation when I heard the noise, didn’t find it down there or anywhere for that matter. It just seemed to fall down in some nook in the engine bay. Engine has been running for a month with no sign of anything wrong. Long story short you have to be very careful while executing the repair, lack of knowledge on how to do the repair plus fear of messing something up ends up in alot of vehicles for sale that need simple repairs. This is not only true for engine repairs but transmission/suspension/electrical/drivetrain as well. It pays to be mechanically inclined.
  12. I came across a 1986 D21 Hard Body with a Z24i. Same story as my ‘85 Z24, blown head gasket. It was too good of a deal to pass up. I might throw on my Mustang SVO turbo on this one and send it. Its a standard cab 2wd, gold/green paint. Interior needs work, but engine looks to be in good shape. I figured since I don't have all the time I would need to complete a cab swap as soon as I would like to I opted for this. I must say its a sweet little truck I will have alot of fun with 🙂
  13. My plan for it is to find a 1998-2016 Frontier donor and swap in the KA24DE, also turbo it making a KA24DET. It will be straight piped anyway, so I wont be able to take it anywhere near California. Washington recently eliminated ALL emissions testing on any model/year. Not having this as a daily driver, really going to orient it as a recreational track/drift truck. Will have coil overs, KA trans and diff, 720 frame originally came with Z24. All of this with a 620 cab would be a dream come true.
  14. The 720 is an ‘85, has a 17 digit vin. Looked it up and it checks out. The 620 on the other hand will have to be called in, I have not found a cab yet. The owner of the 720 frame is keeping the cab, therefore most likely keeping the title and registering the vin.
  15. You don't necessarily have to call DMV, there are plenty of sites to be able to check VIN history & discrepancies. I live in Washington. I will try to get a copy of the title and definitely a bill of sale. I will register it with the cab vin and take to court if ever comes to it (highly doubt it). As long as its not stolen, and you have proof of ownership, nothing to worry about. Regarding the steering link, I will have to see if I can put an intermediate shaft between the column and box. I could fabricate a shaft with u-joints to get the angle. I don't have the frame or cab yet, will cross the bridge when I get there.
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