gdat210

thanks. just debating if it would be better to sell them and do an EFI setup instead. it would definitely look & sound cool.

Has anyone had any success with doing a blow thru turbo on DHLA 40's? Or even weber DCOE? what must be done to jet the carburetor to provide more fuel when boost pressure builds?

what year would that have been? must've been 80's & 90's?

ive got some dellortos 40s id sell if interest. 2 of them PM me if its something youre interested in!

lol its the same story here! it always surprises people that they still exist.

first thing you need to do before another single thing is fix the vacuum leak. then, put a small amount of oil in each cylinder. then do a compression test. twice on each cylinder to verify accuracy. then record the results. make sure the motor is warmed up when you do the test. you need to hold the throttle to the floor as you spin the motor to ensure the motor is producing accurate compression. also, don't forget to unhook your coil wire before you start the compression test. it will either end in a fire-y mess or the motor will start running. while you have the plugs out, grab a few pics and post them here. there are plenty of people here with insight if you send us a few pics. plugs can tell you a lot about how a motor is running. keep track of which plugs came out of which cylinder, it will help you identify which cylinder or isn't firing. check the oil in the motor. what's it look like? if it looks like chocolate milk, you probably have a headgasket gone bad. your valves & rockers are supposed to have slack between them. It probably could use a tune up, but its not for an amateur, take it to someone who KNOWS how to set valve lash. I happen to have access to 2 ASE certified mechanics of 20+ years when i need help or insight, (dad and grand dad) but we are not all so lucky.

a head gasket will often pressurize your coolant system and blow it out the radiator. id lean much closer to a bad ring or burnt valve. post compression numbers and try the oil trick datzenmike mentioned. youre missing a lot of information, try to slow down and read what people are recommending.

I'd definitely swap that fuel filter out first. if it was the clutch it would run fine in neutral. try fixing that manifold leak first and see what happens. you may be surprised.

I personally like it & the black on black.

that was the first thing that came to my mind. I had a manifold vacuum leak on an A15 a few weeks ago. the hose was old and dry rotted and just popped off. stuck it back on and went back to runnin smooth.

as for the spraying oil, that sounds more like a valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, or pan gasket to me. I'd check those first before doing a headgasket. that's a fairly large undertaking.

not to be offensive or anything but it doesn't seem to me that you know anything about an engine very well. Get some pics of the plugs and post them here. check your plug & wires, get a spark tester, check your cap and rotor button for corrosion, look for a bad or open vacuum line, check your fuel filter, air filter, etc etc. there's a half a million reasons a car could stop running properly. one of the very last of which is a bent valve.

sounds about right. I've been dreading the brake job due on my 68 Ford wagon. every time i get discouraged i give that ole 390 a bump and listen to the open headers thump 😁

thanks, My dad has a youtube channel that will be covering a large portion of the work done to the car. I will be sure to link some videos once they're posted.

Picked this up this weekend. My new project. Planning a full restoration/preservation with some modification to improve performance. Right now the biggest issues are the leaky rear diff (drove it 300 miles home stopping every 75 miles to refill the diff) and a burned exhaust valve on the #1 cylinder. It also has some rust issues around the sunroof. Other than the burned valve, it runs great and the trans shifts as if it were new. I am excited to tear into this one, as it is a great candidate for a restoration. I have a 210 SL Hatchback that will be donating its rear diff to the cause, as well as any other odds and ends it may provide to button up this wagon. After doing some research, I've come to the conclusion that a N/A A15 will not comfortably provide the streetable power that I am looking for (120-150HP) at reasonable RPM's. I am exploring the possibility of a EFI turbo build on the motor that is in the hatchback, and dropping it into this wagon once complete. I will be looking for better flowing head & intake for the build. If anyone is in need of parts for a 1981 210 SL Hatchback let me know! I may be able to help you out!