Gery

Thanks.  

On 8/17/2014 at 7:20 AM, datzenmike said:

Here's another but not the only reason.... Easier to disable so the car can't be stolen.

Hello-

My ‘78 truck originally had ac (but now out) so it is equipped with an electric pump.  Are mechanical ones more trustworthy?

your comment brings up an interesting alternative to a kill switch for theft deterrence.  Also, a fuel pump switch would allow having the ignition on (during diagnostics etc.) without motor running and also not having the electric pump pounding away.

Inasmuch as I prefer reliability, if an OEM mechanical pump serves that purchase, I will start scouring for one.

I have a rollbar in the bed, so I needed one to fit around that.  Frustrated with searching, I decided to make one....a soft tonneau.  Using a large single piece of marine vinyl fabric, I cur to size.  I DID NOT do this with measurements, but by clipping onto the bed and cutting.  I then sewers 1.5” poly webbing on the top perimeter.  Next I installed stainless snap bases ar regular intervals around the bed edge. Only then, did I start installing the snap covers through the webbing and vinyl fabric.  This allowed me to achieve adequate tautness across the bed.  Because there was still some unavoidable sag in the tonneau that would only get worse in the rain, I fashioned two cross members out of aluminum rectangular tubing.  I left a flange on each end to sit upon the bed rail and used industrial Velcro at the points of contact to hold the rails in place, but also make them easily removable.  The whole deal was less than $100 and I get people asking about it and asking me to make them one. It has been in place for 6 months and nary a problem.

Hmmmm.....no intimate knowledge out there of 620 and 720 window weatherstrip clips?

Does anybody have a photo of a 720 clip?

a couple of 620 clips?

a rusty paper clip?  (Actually, I have a bunch of those)

Ha!  

Actually, for the side window outside rubber strip seal.  There are 4 on each side, made of formed sheet metal, and are about 1.5” square.

Hey everyone.

I just need one outer clip for the.window squeegee for my 620 but am having a hard time locating any.  Will ones from a 720 fit?? Or?

thanks

On trucks with factory air, 2 of the 3 front vents (the ones just in front of the doors) are sealed.  I ripped out my ac and the underdash conduits, removed the sheetmetal plates over the vent ports, and installed the appropriate pull-rod controlled flap inlets.  .  Result is MUCH better airflow.  
In anticipation of the question “Why’d you take out the AC?”, it was a heavy and fairly useless embellishment that always seemed to have some part of itself in my way.  

https://imgur.com/gallery/lx3cxAp

photos

My glovebox insert was pretty rotten, and I got tired of stuff falling out from under the dash.  My solution won’t apply to purists, but for those looking for function at low cost, this might help.  I took a plastic  ammo box from Harbor Freight (less than $5), cit the top and upper lid off, and it has a pretty good vertical fit in my 620. It is not as wide as the original insert but I used the extra space behind the glovebox door to mount a couple of charger outlets.  It is much sturdier than the cardboard originals and fairly easy to pop in and out.  Because it is abs plastic, I could even mount a light very easily.  If anyone is interested I will take a photo.

Mine hasn’t needed to be refelted....but, I have used the fuzzy side of Velcro in a similar situation.  Industrial, self sticking is best (fine online).  Also, have on hand a set of picks, a couple of chop sticks, forceps/tweezers (to remove backing cover as you move along ) and a putty knife.  Getting the sticky backed Velcro down in the slots, though challenging, can be done with patience.

BTW, I also use a couple of rods in my windows when not open.  The sliders are an easy way to break into your truck. You can even dip the ends of the rods in Dip-It to keep them from adding yet another rattle to your collection of driving sounds.

To: thisismatt-

Sorry, but your comments seem a bit snarky.  Also they don’t add anything valuable to the discussion.  You are welcome to drive your car anyway you want and use or not use your parking brake, but you needn’t jump into a topic just to criticize.  You’re listed a senior member and should set a better example.  Datsun owners come here to get and give information, not to be belittled.  I’m sure you have a lot of really useful knowledge that would be appreciated if you were to share it. 

To Datzenmike-

I was pretty sure you’d clear up this minor mystery of the switch.  It was the switch that forced a downshift.

Thank you!

To: thisismatt-

i understand the confusion....but it isn’t for when the car is actually underway.  Automatics have a forward creep that keeps the car from free rolling backward when you stop on a hill and remove your foot from the brakes.  Manual transmissions obviously can’t have this feature.  Usually a quick, well coordinated foot change from brake to gas with a smooth release of clutch is fine.  But, on a really steep hill, with another car stopped close behind, it is helpful to engage the parking brake and thus free your right foot to be all set for the gas.  Then, as the clutch is released and the gas is applied, the parking brake is simultaneously released; all of which allows for a smooth takeoff up the hill.  Unless you live where there are steep hills upon which you have to stop, the situation rarely arises. But, if it does,  this technique can save dents, humiliation, and tears.

One other reason for the use is if you have just passed a cop and you do not want him/her to see that you just applied your brakes in an attempt to avoid a speeding ticket.  Brake lights do not go on when using the parking brake.  
 

The under-the-dash parking brake handle just does not (in my opinion) respond as well as a floor mounted levered parking brake.  That’s the reason just about all manually equipped (factory) cars for decades use the between-the-seats lever.

Probably/almost certainly more than anyone wanted on this particular topic but....
 

Gery

BACKGROUND (‘78 620 kc)

I replaced my automatic trans. with a 5 speed manual.  Without the forward creep of the auto, the under-dash parking brake handle was not adequate or convenient on hills, etc.  So, I installed a.between the seats floor mount parking brake, which turned out fine.  I even moved the handbrake switching over to the new set-up. Finally, with some spare time (shelter at home), I decide to pull the handbrake assembly from under the dash.There, mounted on the assembly, I found an additional momentary switch that is triggered when the accelerator is pushed way down.

QUESTION(s): What is the purpose of this switch?    Do I need it?

Thanks

Can the ratio be changed?

can the steering box be rebuilt at home?

Jumping in here.  My ‘78 620 kc has similar problems.  The master cylinder is shot so I will be replacing that.  Although the booster may be fine, I want to catch that before the inevitable failure.  Problem is that I am finding it difficult to locate (without unspecified delays).

The part number is 53-5240.   Are there others that can be substituted?  
my rubber brake lines are also looking worse for wear, especially the fronts (disc). Best bets on good quality replacements.?

I tried a couple custom motorcycle shops....they just kept getting hung up on the idea that it wasn’t for a motorcycle.

the cable shop (above) looks promising.  If not, I am getting a better and better picture of how to make a workable cable myself.  Mainly need the swaged end pieces ....and a sewage press($).  

Thanks!

Hello and thanks for looking.

i need a new or even good used hand brake cable for my 620 kc.  Not the twin cables that go to the brake, but the cable running from the brake handle to the equalizer.  The equalizer fitting on the cable end is the critical feature I need to match up.  

Are there any other cable brands that will work with the equalizer?  Or cable ends that I could have staged on another ebrake cable?

Thanks

Thanks!    (‘78 kc 620).  That helps a lot.  I always appreciate your responses. 🙂

My dash brake light stopped going on at start-up and when the hand brake is engaged.  I used a multimeter on the line to the handbrake switch and got no voltage.  Possibly a burnt bulb  on the gauge?  Before having to remove the dash instrument panel, is there anything else I can try?  If this was only a handbrake issue I would be less concerned....but I don’t want to drive around without a warning light for loss of brake fluid. All six fuses in the main fuse box test as good.  I checked the reservoirs...there are no float switches on the lids...so I couldn’t test the light that way.

Oh yeah, and on the subject of brakes.... how much difference do performance disc systems make over stock disc systems.  I’m talking front only....rears are drums.

Out of curiosity, could a ‘78 kc fit on a ‘71 510 frame....and do so without major work?

if not that, how about a ‘78 on a pre 1976 620 frame?

Mike- As usual, you are a wealth of great information.  I was hoping to hear your perspective.

All interesting.  I wasn’t even thinking of the rpms until I came across the mention (above) of 5.5k shifting.  With my apparent shift range in the 3 to 4K range, I want to make sure I haven’t missed something....and that 3-4K shifts are not causing mechanical problems.   Frankly, after 4K my engine sounds ready to throw a rod or something.  Given its age, I’ve been fine with lower rev (3k) shifts.  

BTW, the truck hums along on the L.A. freeways and the empty stretches of the Pacific Coast Highway.

Soooo....should I leave well enough alone (if it is well enough and not a problem) or consider a differential change?  Or?

Today I observed:

3rd gear @3,000rpm = 40mph

What differential gears should I be using?

I recently put a 5 speed in my (previously automatic) ‘78 620 kc.  (Stock L20b, Weber, de-smogged at present). Shifting at 3k felt right but not aggressive. After reading all this though, I thought I must be being too conservative.  After pushing it, I’ve Found that power starts to drop at 4K and 5 k seems unattainable.  Thoughts?

That (removing the lighter)did the trick.  Also, realizing that the plastic panel was flush against sheet metal and that the sheet metal was staying put.  So, at first when I slipped a finger in the lighter hole and hooked it to try and pull, I was also working against the sheet metal.

Thanks, again.