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metalmonkey47

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Posts posted by metalmonkey47

  1. When I picked the bike up, the PO gave me boxes of spare parts, including a spare motor.

     

    I was initially going to throw this motor onto the frame, and rebuild the original motor to be swapped back onto the frame later, however after breaking it down for a simple inspection it became apparent that this motor wasn't being used for a reason......

     

    Pulled the valve cover to learn that the valve train was NOT stock, decided to go in further out of curiosity.

     

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    Blown the fuck up. This motor was someones built Russ Collins 836 big bore motor, with big cam, dual valve springs, aluminum retainers, etc. Surprisingly, the cylinders and valves were not damaged from the motor failure, so I'll order a set of pistons from Wiseco and throw it all back together at some point after more in depth checking.

    • Like 2
  2. Back in 2016, I decided that if I wasn't going to let myself own a Datsun for a while (space, time, etc) I was going to find another outlet for my j-tin obsession. I've always loved Honda's, actually had a '73 CB175 for my first vehicle.

     

    This one fell into my lap in early 2016.

     

    It's a 1971 CB750, early K1. Initially this was going to be a resto-mod project, fixing first what was broken and riding it for a little while, but that didn't last long. I started by replacing the loose swingarm bushings, but realized while I was there that I might as well do the rest of the stuff back there while I was at it.

     

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    Over the last 3 months I've been going through the stages to strip it.

     

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    As it sits now:

     

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  3. Disconnect vacuum advance completely from the equation until you've finished carb/timing setup.

     

    I completely ignored base-timing on my 240Z, I set set timing to 30-degrees advanced at 3000rpm just as you did, and went through the carb sync procedure. Once you've gotten it idling correct and carbs sync'd properly, leave everything alone and drive it. The car drove amazing.

     

    Make sure your chokes are disconnected when you're syncing carbs, that will effect idle if they aren't up all of the way.

  4. Neither. I work for an independent company that has been building, tuning, and racing VQ, VG, etc for a long time including Global Time Attack, NASA Spec Z, etc.

  5. The engines you're talking about were used within 3 years of production. 2003-2006. That's why I suggested 2007+. Zero oil consumption.

     

    Old GM SBC's drink more oil than early VQ's. Same for Ford 4.6's.

    Actually, have a neat video of a SBC powered Miata misting oil from the exhaust across the front of a Z on a road coarse.

  6. Yep..not sure about that smoke. You said that every powertrain has issues? What issue does an L series have?

     

    That's a twin turbo high compression car with stock PCV system and no catch can, if it didn't smoke on the dyno after an 8000rpm pull, I'd be concerned. I'm guessing many people here aren't familiar with cars making 400+HP

     

    I don't think I'm the right person to speak about that, but I can tell you that although L-series engines are incredibly reliable this is due to their simplicity, not only their design. They wear out, just like any other car and can become issue-prone as they age.

     

    VQ's are far more complex engines than the average commuter engine and they're absolutely phenomenal given their complexity. I've put 63,000 miles on my '07 since I bought it, I've had zero powertrain related failures besides radiator and thermostat in the many years. I track the car on road coarses, I put near 80 miles on the car daily commuting and it's done exceptionally.

    • Like 1
  7. I think you're overthinking the issues. Every powertrain has its issues, the VQ platform is fantastic. I don't care for the early DE because of its oil consumption, but we've put well over 400hp behind these motors through turbo's and superchargers, and we run them all day long during time attack events.

     

    Our Time Attack 370Z is tuned just shy of 600whp on E85 and it has been incredibly reliable, seeing far more abuse than the typical street car. We've pushed oil and coolant temps far beyond threshold on the track a few times now, and it's held every bit of it. 

     

     

    ^The white car in this video at the time it was recorded was making around 450whp on the stock un-opened high mileage engine. He had a built motor, and tried every day to break this thing. It simply wouldn't die. It now has a built 3.5 with cams, forged rotating assembly, etc and makes just shy of 600whp on low boost with a single turbo.

     

     

    ^^This car has taken astounding amounts of abuse for years, makes 666whp on pump gas.

     

    The oil pressure issue is generally a non-issue. The cars idle low, about 550rpm with the A/C off. With oil temps up in normal range, oil pressure drops to about 15psi. Most people think that's low or indicates an issue, but that's normal spec for a VQ in those conditions. 

  8. You say no cam for the 3.7 VVEL motor, but Jim Wolf has a mod to the VVEL assembly itself to increase lift/duration of the intake event.

     

    JWT has exhaust cam's (as does JUN) the VVEL mod is done through software like UpRev. We tune cars at Z1 and can make changes to VVEL. The only downside is that NO aftermarket cam can be used on the intake side.

     

    Exhaust cams are honestly useless in the 3.7 VHR. Gains are negligible, and labor/parts cost is too high to justify.

     

    Very informative metalmonkey, thank u for ur very detailed synopsis. Seems like 2007 is the way to go. But it also seems like it has issues not as bad as earlier models but an improvement.

    IMO, the few issues it does have are not difficult to resolve. It's well worth the potential hassle. Also, a lot of cars on the market for sale have already had these resolved.

  9. I had an 05 convertible LOVED IT  but it had low oil pressure and the dealer/warranty didn't want to address the issue head on  I tried to get them to replace the oil pump several times with no success they tried other things like front cover o rings and seals with no change, I ran 10/40 in the car rather then 5/30 just to boost the pressure enough to keep the light off at idle, at anything but idle the pressure would come up with no issues 

    they said it was within all specs yet at idle the oil light came on and the gauge read near 0

    next problem was with the nissan anti theft device that reads the chipped key ( no available fixes other then to remove that portion out of the BCM (body control module

    doing that fixed the starting problem but made the red alarm light stay on at all times when driving the car 

    ended up trading it in for an 2011 370z and dont regret it at all 

    Hands down I think the 370 is superior over the 350

    bought the 350 with 75k miles traded in at 125k miles 

    bought the 2011 with 36k miles

     

    Your issue wasn't oil pump, it was oil gallery gaskets. It's an internal leak from the oil gallery covers, fairly common. Sounds like the dealer wasn't familiar with VQ's. Your 370Z suffers the same fate eventually, if it ever starts to lose oil pressure, address the gallery gaskets asap.

     

    These cars do produce low oil PSI at idle (600RPM idle is about 15PSI) but should never read near zero.

     

     

    All the 3.5 v6s were oil burners.

    Except the '07+ VQ35HR's.

  10. My opinion working for Z1 Motorsports for years, and daily driving / tracking a 350Z in the meantime: 

     

    03-05 VQ35DE Version - Single Throttle Body:

    Pro's

      -Inexpensive (Compared to other years)

      -Great aftermarket

      -Inexpensive to boost

    Con's

      -Smaller brakes than later years (unless track model with Brembo's)

      -Cheaper quality interior

      -Serious oil burners (suffer from compression issues)

      -Weaker on power compared to later models.

      -Early 03-04.5 production models had poor synchro's in the 6mt's

      -Lower NA power

      -Weaker power band

      -Harder to find in a lower mile chassis

     

    2006 VQ35DE Rev-Up (6mt ONLY) - Single Throttle Body:

     

    Pro's

      -Updated interior (also applies to 07+)

      -Updated Exterior (also applies to 07+)

      -LED Tails (also applies to 07+)

      -HID headlights standard (also applies to 07+)

      -Larger brakes standard (also applies to 07+)

      -Higher rev-limit over earlier 03-05 engines

      -Stronger rotating assembly

      -Updated CD009/CD00A 6mt - Very durable

      -Great aftermarket aftermarket

      -Cheap to boost

     

    Con's

      -Expensive and difficult engine to find (if you ever need to)

      -Worse oil consumption / compression issues than earlier VQ engines.

      -

     

    2007-2008 VQ35HR - Dual Throttle Body:

     

    Pro's

      -See above for '06 updates

      -Higher rev-limit over Rev-up and non-Rev-up (nearly 8000RPM stock with a tune)

      -Easier to find with lower miles

      -More powerful than VQ35DE's

      -Share aftermarket and OE with 370Z's VQ37VHR

      -Outstanding aftermarket

      -ZERO oil consumption issues

      -Incredibly strong rotating assembly (upwards of 700whp capable with turbo's)

      -Hold their value better (because of NISMO models)

      -Better NA power

      -Better flowing heads than predecessor

     

    Con's

      -Oil gallery gasket failure is somewhat common, and requires the removal of timing covers to service.

      -Slave cylinder is inside of the bellhousing and common failure. Aftermarket kits resolve this issue

      -Higher overall value means higher cost to buy

      -Slightly more expensive to mod, however more rewarding so not really a con......

     

    The '07+ is far superior in EVERY way. I whore out the '07+ HR 350Z's because they're truly incredible cars.

     

    370Z is also a great option, early models are getting cheaper and close to the cost of an '07+ 350Z, but they suffer from the same CON's (gallery gasket and slave cylinder). In addition, they Nissan's VVEL (variable valve event lift) which is heavy, and not serviceable which means there are zero cam options for the intake side of the heads. It also produces far more heat, so earlier models suffer from high-oil-temps. Oil cooler highly recommended.

     

    Now I'm biased because I own one....but I'm also well educated for the same reason. I love my '07 350Z, most reliable car I have owned EVER and it makes great power for an NA bolt-on car. About 308whp with 278 lb-ft to be exact. I have 162,000 miles on this turd and it's absolutely incredible. I track it, I daily drive it, and it takes literally everything I throw at it. That said, if I was in your position I would NOT recommend a 350Z for a first car (if that's the case here). They are just enough car to seriously get yourself in trouble with if you're inexperienced or irresponsible. If those aren't issues, I would absolutely invest in one.

     

    Picture of my '07 getting ready to eat a TT 300ZX on Road Atlanta just because.

     

    30550925886_581554a68f.jpgZ_Nats_Highlight_10 by Matt Yates, on Flickr

  11. This is gonna be awesome! Can't wait to see go together. 

     

    As far as gearing, there are a million different gear options from cars that use the same R200 diff. 

     

    We compiled the data on it last year. You can also get a 4.08, and 4.36 which were never a factory gear. The auto VLSD has a different ring gear offset so if you want to swap ratios, you'll need a manual LSD.

    https://www.z1motorsports.com/upload/Z1350ZG35370ZG37GearRatios.pdf

    • Like 1
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