Dnatoli

I have an 84 2WD king cab

Cool, thank you! Dana 44 it is, time to start scouring craigslist.

The further and further I get into this the more obvious a Dana 44 is the way to go. Now to source one locally. Can someone remind me the width of the factory 720 rear end? My 4-link kit is here as well so I'm just about ready to get cracking on this and measure for coilovers.

If the width is right and there's more parts available, seems like a no brainer. After just a very quick search, the entire assemblies are available very readily.

I have discovered another potential alternative that I would like to potentially try, if anyone that's been discussing cares to weigh in. Isuzu Rodeo rear end. Apparently has beefy axles, factory LSD and the option for disc brakes is readily available. Anyone had their hands in on this?

Thank you Charlie! I will do some digging today on Mike Klotz. I just need brackets to run rear disc and I'll be a happy camper. Seems to be a theme from everyone that BeeBani's support and products just aren't worth it.

Did he reach him via email or..?

Sounds like a horrible option. Well, I am going to just use the factory rear end for now then it seems (roller coaster of a decision) with 4-link and coilovers because I have all of that and drive it for now while I focus on other aspects of this weird build. Can anyone advise me on how to get a hold of Beebani?

Good to know. What happened to others that ordered it?

I found this limited slip that works with all H190 open diggs allegedly. May give it a go. I sent an email to the company to verify fitment before ordering. https://www.tractionconcepts.com/Nissan-LSD-kit-Fits-H190-Diffs-p/tcxni9301.htm

I've heard the name BeeBani, previously. I ordered the rear disc kit on eBay, emailed him and messaged him and never heard anything, wasn't charged and never received anything. Any suggestions on how to reach him? That was end of last summer I did that.

Well I found a 1995 pathfinder rear end, complete with discs and all local for $175.00, so I might just roll with that and see how it works out. My experience with cars has always been IRS, so this is more of a learning experience than anything. To clarify, there is no bolt on rear disc conversion for the factory 720 rear end and no LSD's?

I have no quarrel with switching to Toyota, and I could happily go with 5 lug. Can you point me in the direction of which model I can pull a rear end from that is LSD and roughly the same width as the factory 720 rear end? That being said though, I have already located a 93 pathfinder rear end at a salvage yard I can get for $175.00 complete and can pick it up as early as tomorrow. But if I can save weight, still have an LSD, roughly same width and run disc brakes in the rear I am all in to bail on this craigslist find.

Thanks for the input datzenmike. The truck body will be flared, so hitting the body will not be an issue I'm too worried about. I can space out the front to match so it doesn't look wild. It will not have a z24 and nowhere near to stock power levels, so I don't mind the extra weight for an LSD and rear discs. There is very little about my truck that is conventional, so keep that in mind. Once I get it most of the way completed I will be posting a lot more about it on here, I'm sure.

Perfect! Thank you Lockleaf. So, to clarify, I need to find a 92-95 pathfinder rear end?

Well, I'm in the 720 platform and I have an '84 720 in my bio to the left... so likely the '84 720. If it's not too much wider I can likely make it work. Roughly 2"/side should be doable. It is a 2wd as well that will be lower than factory height.

Which models have rear ends with an LSd(or something similar) and discs? I have a 4-link kit on the way and need to start hunting locally (Houston, TX) for a rear end that has those requirements. Since the rear will be coilover and 4-link I will be cutting off all the factory mounting points, so as long as width is right, I am pretty open.

thank you very much! I put in an order last week for the rear disc conversion brackets from beebani, but have not had a confirmation or any sort of response. I really want to try that before I source a rear end swap.

Love the meme!

And we’re discussing it, eh? I’m enjoying all the feedback. I want this system to be as simple in design as possible, so sure it is 50 years old in design and I fishtail around. Let’s start by seeing if I can even make this whole abomination I’m midway through creating even work 🙂

While I do enjoy this debate, I am going to continue to build this to see if it can be done and if all said and done all my attempts at different things don’t work, I will admit my wrong and we will close this. But for now, the bbe is verified to work on that truck. Let me clear some things up about this: Although new to this site, I am no stranger to building cars. My particular set up for this truck will have dual rear calipers as the drums will be deleted. This will eliminate what was said above about the residual pressure issue as well as the fact that there will be a separate hydraulic system operated by a hand brake in the cab to its own rear calipers so if there is a line failure, there will be means of stopping. The reason I had mentioned wanting it for a turbo was NOT because of anything to do with vacuum but simply to increase space in the engine compartment. Hindsight, I probably should have put more information in this, but I had worked a very long day and shared anyway. This post so far has been to share that this product does in fact work to bolt up to our cars and as I continue to work on this, I will supply more information. The purpose is not to create a discussion board of how/why things should not be done but to create a space in which my trial/error can be shared to those who may consider for whatever reason they choose. Datzenmike, I see where you come from by calling me “wrong-headed” but I am fully aware of what I am doing, changing and the potential consequence of doing so.

I get where you’re coming from. The bbe keeps the front and rear brakes separate to avoid this. I also believe they are road legal. You should do some research on this, you will probably find it is more common than you think and on many road vehicles. Although outside most people’s common thought process the initial reaction I have always found is exactly what you said. A lot of Honda and Nissan guys use this for drift cars, track cars and to have show worthy shaved bays.

Well, there are several reasons. The first and most simple is.. why not? But the reality for me is that with the weight of the truck, it will work just fine. For my particular application, I am 2wd and would like the truck as simple as possible. if I decide to turbo charge it, the engine I have in it will need the space on that side of the bay for the manifold and turbo. This by no means will fit everybody’s application and I’m sure I will get a lot of confusion by doing this on here, but at least we know it for sure bolts up. The driveability of it is still TBD, but when the day comes that my truck is road worthy I will update this. I will also update it in between then when I have the hydro mounted and all the lines ran.

I am slowly but surely building a 720, and as I have been encountering issues, I have been trying new things to overcome them. I would like to share one of them that has been thusfar successful for those who may (or may not) be curious. I used a Chasebays BBE (brake booster eliminator) for a 240sx, amongst other chassis's that have the same bolt pattern, and upon ordering it figured I would make an adapter plate of some sort to make it work, but found I did not have to. Below is an image of the rusty nasty, poorly painted set up I had. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/32862951777/in/album-72157680305874288/ So, I received the Chasebays BBE and bias valve and mocked it up to the firewall: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/32861703207/in/album-72157680305874288/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32861703207_dbb3fdf8b0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> But realized that wasn't going to work very well so I mocked it up to that long tube thing that the Booster bolts to in the factory set-up and found it bolts right up! <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/46888818115/in/album-72157680305874288/" title=" "><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46888818115_e70151fd9d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt=" "></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> The next thing I had to figure out was the length of the push rod. The threaded portion of the BBE is 5/16-24 threaded rod (if memory serves, can verify 100% if someone needs) and the tube thing measures 5". I went to Fastenal and got myself a couple of unions, extra hex nuts and a 3ft stick of threaded rod in that size then cut the rod to the same length as the tube thing and put it together. Used the extra nuts I bought to lock it in place. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47015951274/in/album-72157680305874288/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47015951274_00fa6aa33c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> I test fit the set up, and found it worked! so I test fit it all, then painted the tube thing and bolted it all up. After assembling it all, I mounted the bias valve to adjust the proportion of the front/rear braking and found it hits the sheet metal of the fender well. In my case, my truck is a rusty hunk of cr*p so I cut it out to fit the bias valve. If you're not willing to do that, the bias valve can be mounted very easily. in-line inside the cab, under the truck or where ever you desire. Chasebays uses -3AN fittings for their stuff which is widely universal. They also make custom lines and have all sorts of fitting and adapters to make their stuff work in any application. The customer service has always been phenomenal so if you need help I can try to if I am on this forum or I am sure they will do their very best. I also used their products to make a custom clutch line for the swap I am doing. All said and done, I have not ran lines yet and I don't have a running truck to tell you pedal feel, but I have driven cars with their products before and it has been just fine, although needless to say this is not for everybody. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47753059262/in/album-72157680305874288/ <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47015951244/in/album-72157680305874288/

Thank you so much Lockleaf! that is incredibly handy and straightforward information. I had read a bunch of things regarding this, but never had anything definitive like what you just wrote out. What year pathfinder should I be looking for? Does it matter if the d21 is 4wd or not? also does anybody know if Beebani is still making stuff? I want to order his brackets to verify if it works on a 720 or not. If he still is making stuff and If I source all the stuff for the conversion and it does not work on the 720, I will sell the kit on here to a 620 owner for a discount off what I paid.