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Dnatoli

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About Dnatoli

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 02/25/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Houston
  • Cars
    2018 VW Atlas, 2012 m3, 1984 720, 1972 rb25 powered 240z
  • Interests
    Sleep

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  1. thank you very much! I put in an order last week for the rear disc conversion brackets from beebani, but have not had a confirmation or any sort of response. I really want to try that before I source a rear end swap.
  2. And we’re discussing it, eh? I’m enjoying all the feedback. I want this system to be as simple in design as possible, so sure it is 50 years old in design and I fishtail around. Let’s start by seeing if I can even make this whole abomination I’m midway through creating even work 🙂
  3. While I do enjoy this debate, I am going to continue to build this to see if it can be done and if all said and done all my attempts at different things don’t work, I will admit my wrong and we will close this. But for now, the bbe is verified to work on that truck. Let me clear some things up about this: Although new to this site, I am no stranger to building cars. My particular set up for this truck will have dual rear calipers as the drums will be deleted. This will eliminate what was said above about the residual pressure issue as well as the fact that there will be a separate hydraulic system operated by a hand brake in the cab to its own rear calipers so if there is a line failure, there will be means of stopping. The reason I had mentioned wanting it for a turbo was NOT because of anything to do with vacuum but simply to increase space in the engine compartment. Hindsight, I probably should have put more information in this, but I had worked a very long day and shared anyway. This post so far has been to share that this product does in fact work to bolt up to our cars and as I continue to work on this, I will supply more information. The purpose is not to create a discussion board of how/why things should not be done but to create a space in which my trial/error can be shared to those who may consider for whatever reason they choose. Datzenmike, I see where you come from by calling me “wrong-headed” but I am fully aware of what I am doing, changing and the potential consequence of doing so.
  4. I get where you’re coming from. The bbe keeps the front and rear brakes separate to avoid this. I also believe they are road legal. You should do some research on this, you will probably find it is more common than you think and on many road vehicles. Although outside most people’s common thought process the initial reaction I have always found is exactly what you said. A lot of Honda and Nissan guys use this for drift cars, track cars and to have show worthy shaved bays.
  5. Well, there are several reasons. The first and most simple is.. why not? But the reality for me is that with the weight of the truck, it will work just fine. For my particular application, I am 2wd and would like the truck as simple as possible. if I decide to turbo charge it, the engine I have in it will need the space on that side of the bay for the manifold and turbo. This by no means will fit everybody’s application and I’m sure I will get a lot of confusion by doing this on here, but at least we know it for sure bolts up. The driveability of it is still TBD, but when the day comes that my truck is road worthy I will update this. I will also update it in between then when I have the hydro mounted and all the lines ran.
  6. I am slowly but surely building a 720, and as I have been encountering issues, I have been trying new things to overcome them. I would like to share one of them that has been thusfar successful for those who may (or may not) be curious. I used a Chasebays BBE (brake booster eliminator) for a 240sx, amongst other chassis's that have the same bolt pattern, and upon ordering it figured I would make an adapter plate of some sort to make it work, but found I did not have to. Below is an image of the rusty nasty, poorly painted set up I had. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/32862951777/in/album-72157680305874288/ So, I received the Chasebays BBE and bias valve and mocked it up to the firewall: <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/32861703207/in/album-72157680305874288/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32861703207_dbb3fdf8b0.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> But realized that wasn't going to work very well so I mocked it up to that long tube thing that the Booster bolts to in the factory set-up and found it bolts right up! <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/46888818115/in/album-72157680305874288/" title=" "><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46888818115_e70151fd9d.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt=" "></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> The next thing I had to figure out was the length of the push rod. The threaded portion of the BBE is 5/16-24 threaded rod (if memory serves, can verify 100% if someone needs) and the tube thing measures 5". I went to Fastenal and got myself a couple of unions, extra hex nuts and a 3ft stick of threaded rod in that size then cut the rod to the same length as the tube thing and put it together. Used the extra nuts I bought to lock it in place. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47015951274/in/album-72157680305874288/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47015951274_00fa6aa33c.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> I test fit the set up, and found it worked! so I test fit it all, then painted the tube thing and bolted it all up. After assembling it all, I mounted the bias valve to adjust the proportion of the front/rear braking and found it hits the sheet metal of the fender well. In my case, my truck is a rusty hunk of cr*p so I cut it out to fit the bias valve. If you're not willing to do that, the bias valve can be mounted very easily. in-line inside the cab, under the truck or where ever you desire. Chasebays uses -3AN fittings for their stuff which is widely universal. They also make custom lines and have all sorts of fitting and adapters to make their stuff work in any application. The customer service has always been phenomenal so if you need help I can try to if I am on this forum or I am sure they will do their very best. I also used their products to make a custom clutch line for the swap I am doing. All said and done, I have not ran lines yet and I don't have a running truck to tell you pedal feel, but I have driven cars with their products before and it has been just fine, although needless to say this is not for everybody. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47753059262/in/album-72157680305874288/ <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/91162902@N03/47015951244/in/album-72157680305874288/
  7. Thank you so much Lockleaf! that is incredibly handy and straightforward information. I had read a bunch of things regarding this, but never had anything definitive like what you just wrote out. What year pathfinder should I be looking for? Does it matter if the d21 is 4wd or not? also does anybody know if Beebani is still making stuff? I want to order his brackets to verify if it works on a 720 or not. If he still is making stuff and If I source all the stuff for the conversion and it does not work on the 720, I will sell the kit on here to a 620 owner for a discount off what I paid.
  8. Would you be keen on sending him a message for me? I can communicate via email, call text, instagram, forum etc. I just don't have FB and haven't for many many years.. Your help would be extremely appreciated.
  9. I had read about that, I am capable of fabricating if need be, I would just prefer not to if at all possible. If/when I start fabbing anything in the rear of this truck it will end up being IRS from an s13, Miata, FC or something similar. I bought my truck on a whim, and unfortunately it was WAY worse than I had thought so I need one of everything to make it work and would like to go with the path of least resistance, which would be some disc conversion brackets in my specific case.
  10. That was my first thought, and I have tried but came up short. Do you have any other means of contacting him? I do not have a Facebook. Thank you for the response!! Greatly helpful.
  11. I bought a very used 720 I have been rebuilding, amongst other things, and the torsion bar hardware is stripped and pretty much utterly useless so I need to replace it. The hooks on the bar are also bent on one side and the bar is pretty sad as it is. Basically, does anybody know of where to get replacement hardware AND maybe someone can point me in the right direction of purchasing new bars as a whole if they exist. It is an 84 720 2wd king cab.
  12. I have been searching all through the interwebs looking for options to do a rear disc conversion on a 720. I know the drums are adequate in regards to stopping power etc. but it is still something I would like to do if possible. I have an 84 2wd 720. A name popped up a couple times on my search that goes by Beebani, that may have made brackets at one point but can't find any further information. Anybody got anything else that they can help me with?
  13. Time Left: 9 days and 19 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    I am building a 720 pick up and am going a different direction with the build so there are some new parts I have purchased that I no longer will be needing. Vehicle parts were ordered for is an '84 Nissan 720 pick up King Cab 2WD. Quite honestly, if you offer me a lowball for all of it I will probably accept if you want some extra PM stuff for your truck. Everything is located in Houston, TX. NGK plugs and wires for factory z24 - $20 Bosch Oil Filter - $5 Bosch Fuel Filter - $5 PCV Valve - $5 Airtex Factory Electric Fuel Pump - $40 Remanufactured factory Carburetor - $80 Driveshaft center support bearing/bushing - $30 Thermostat - $5

    $100.00

    Houston, Texas

  14. Awesome! Let me know and I'll paypal your or something. Thanks for your response.
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