5280Datsun

Ordered, Installed, Bled and back to normal!! The hose was cracked, but the slave was the issue. Replaced both. Sorry for the delay and thanks for the help!

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I know you have a 210 to my B210, but I have 15x6 +15 195/50/15 280ZX wheels and love them.

Thank you!! Actually, it's a 4 speed should have been more clear.

Driving home my clutch got much lower of an engagement point, few miles later nothing. Recently got a new clutch and the fluid reservoir was basically empty, so I can assume it's not the clutch (and inner workings) and there is also fluid leaking near the slave and line. Since my car is parked on the street it's tough to tell where exactly leak is coming from, I figure it's the line or slave thats given up. I am looking at RockAuto and I am a bit confused on the parts. Obviously there is the dogleg 5-speed parts, but there are others that seem generic. There is also only 2 options for the line, the 5speed and the 4speed both with limited details... Any insight on which part should be correct for the slave and should this be the right line? Slave: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,b210,1.4l+l4,1210824,transmission-manual,clutch+slave+cylinder,2044 Line: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,b210,1.4l+l4,1210824,transmission-manual,clutch+hydraulic+hose,2332

Semi Custom kits : http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-adjustable-aluminum-fan-shroud-kits On my S13 I bought a $20 heavy duty aluminum cookie sheet and cut some hole for my eFans, better that dropping $125 on prefabbed shroud.

Curious if you had tried the plastic "universal" flares, if so, what were the big differences?

Updated my hooptie.

Few updates: Installed the VW MK1 lip- Removed bumper and covered it with sheet metal, plastidipped black until paint and new bumpers- SLAMMED the front. Cut 2.5 coils and on factory struts... Rides fine on smooth road, but naturally, not much travel and bottoms out. Next is custom coil overs though and fender roll or flares (yeah, it rubs too and the liners are removed). BEFORE: AFTER: Thanks for looking!

http://www.clutchexchange.com/ They rebuild your old clutch discs, great guys!!

Used these for the side windows, although your hatch is different. LINK Used this on the trunk. LINK

I hope before you die science is able to download your brain into a "HAL" type system that will automatically reply to stuff. LOL... Thank you. That's what I was hoping, but it gets dark before I get home. Will diagnose further this weekend.

So this started yesterday. I need help to identify it. I'll let the videos demo it. In the videos you can hear a few different sounds, the one of the engine bay you can hear it go away a little (although it seems much higher pitched in the video than in real life) Engine Bay: https://youtu.be/wipdkHmwsx4 Engine Bay with Rev: https://youtu.be/vH4L7dySv1c Inside cab: https://youtu.be/OPnhqTPN5ds Driving through neighborhood: https://youtu.be/Dkoe2AdV0hk Roughly 30 days ago I changed the belts, the water pump and thermostat. The belts are not super tight either. Refilled and bled the coolant. It will go away sporadically and sometimes it does when it's rev'd up, but not always. Sometime cruising speeds, but will come back. Doesn't get noticeably louder with RPM increase. It makes this noise during driving, idling, cold or hot, doesn't matter. It sometimes goes away with high revs or when I let the clutch out and get the RPMs down low. Yesterday the oil was on the low side; although no Oil Pressure dummy light came on and oil was full 2500 miles ago. I checked it when I heard this sound and put in about 1.5-1.75 quarts. It starts cold or hot no issues. It just passed emissions, flawlessly. Thanks almighty engine Gurus! I hope its not a spun bearing or some internal damage. Hoping maybe its the air pump or alternator (although no issues charging or starting) If this is in the wrong section, please move...

Which windows?