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supererogator

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon
  • Cars
    1980 720 Alaska the King Cab, 1995 Velma the Pathfinder, 1965 Sebastian the Mustang

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  1. Thank you. I found it. I had forgotten about half.com, but it appears that it is now an extension of ebay. Either way, $13 to my door from a place that would more gas to drive to=excellent advice.
  2. OK, dishonor aside, for my absence, but I am looking for a detailed book on rebuilding the L series\s motors. My motor is on a stand in my garage, my tranny is in the back of the truck, and I need motivation. I have a 1980 720, vac delete, weber 32/36/ new almost everything: ) coil, bat, plugs, vac lines (existing), plug wires, timing chain, alt, starter, tune-up parts, fuel pump,etc…) if you don't feel like going back through my posts/responses. I found this book: http://www.lybrary.com/how-to-rebuild-your-nissan-datsun-ohc-engine-p-333144.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwluetBRD98L639p35p0QSJACC8BlKUYaz4sJtIsY8KUhFs1D8QEzqfCP1TPwFgmcycfHyjBoCBczw_wcBis that the better one? I figure I need to continue restoring my faith in my wrenching skills and walking through the rebuild with a book would not hurt. I own the Chilton, Haynes, Clymer and Factory books already, but more resources the better.
  3. I, only kind of, want the chrome front bumper corners. I am not even sure those are compatible, as 80-81 was a crucial year. Care to sell them, without the rest of the truck? This would include shipping them to me.
  4. Thank you. Darn it, I wanted those to fit. Cheap and a neat look. Back to the motor.
  5. First off, long time no post for me. I am SLOWLY (because money) working on getting my '80 720 back on the road. I have promised her a bit of special time, including a motor pull and minor rebuild (yeah right), and a nice Ratsun style rattle can paint job. I have been thinking about wheels/tires. That being said, it is a bunch of information for a guy who has never worried about this before. I do not want to lower her, I am going more for a Mad Max look. Something heftier looking without sacrificing realistic parameters. I thought there was thread on this site as to what wheels fit what successfully, but I have not been able to find it in a number of searches. Soooo… I ran into some Durago wheels that I dig, for my planed look. They are a six bolt pattern, and I am currently watching videos on how to measure bolt patter and all of that, but I thought I would check here too. Anyone ever compiled a list of workable junk yard interchanges?
  6. Vacuum first, then re-check your carb. I recently rebuilt my old Hitachi due to many issues. When complete and having done everything to the book, the truck just was not happy. Scrounged the money for a Weber, slapped it on, truck was a million times better. I think having the Weber may screw you at smog again. Look into a new or remanufactured Hitachi. That might just do the trick.
  7. Thread aside... Dang Wayno, I didn't notice you had an old Chevy truck (I did notice you sold it). I have one in my family, 1948, that I have to work on everyone in a while…well, more directly, it is my Mothers, she lives next door, the rest is pretty simple to figure out. It is a hoot. So simple. I compare it to working on a tractor. Did you convert yours to 12v? If so, wanna shoot me a pm about what you did with the gas gauge? This was apparently not done in my Mom's. Funny how car folks just have cars. Even when they specialize in one arena, they still branch out. Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
  8. Very nice find. You may want to change out your carb at some point, and vac lines always need attention, but that is a very clean looking truck you have there. Good job.
  9. Sounds like timing to me. The "under a load" is what keys me off. Can you start off in 2nd or 3rd and get the sputter? Then it is definitely timing. Fuel could be an issue, and that stock carb has seen many days on this earth. Might be something to look into soon.
  10. I would be tempted to research the FI motor and see if it is an original one for the year, but build the z motor so she can run well first. Then tackle the FI one. Sounds like a real find if the price was worth the learning curve. Good looking truck too. Planning a paint job and such down the way?
  11. Ok. For those following along, I purchased a 1995 Pathfinder. She and I already did and 800 mile round trip. I also purchased an engine stand. I am going to take the motor out of my 720, and rebuild it. Paint and polish, replace some parts as I go. I am going to start with the piston and ring kit, and see what else goes belly up. I am in no rush….well, except I want to get the motor into the garage before the last of this unexpected good weather goes away. Any prat falls I should know about? I plan on getting everything loose and then going and renting a hoist, for a day for the final pull and mount on the stand. Any hints on what the books are not telling me? For instance, the book never told me I needed to remove the oil pan or get an extra height hoist to clear the front end on my old Mustang. (Deflating the tires worked great BTW, but by about 3cm) Also an off topic question. I know a bunch of your folks own newer Nissan too. Anyone have a favorite diagnostic computer for a '95 Pathy/also should work on some '90's Hardbodys, I am sure others too? I am new to this world of computers in cars. I have found some help on NICO, but I trust a bunch of you here. Keep in mind that I am a hobby and need based wrencher, I am not looking to spend more than $200ish.
  12. supererogator

    seats

    The reason everyone is looking for an exchange, at least in my not humble opinion, is that the search for decent ones takes forever…and longer as they age. I like the fit of my 720 seats, but they are plain and simple…SHOT. Re-springing and re-welding them would be not worth it, not to mention the cost, and I have the tools to sew new fabric of any sort for the outside. That being said, I agree with the niceness thing. I am not known to be "nice' but I have been working on it. I love this forum because when I asked questions, that seemed silly, even to me, as I could search them too, I got answers. Not only that, but answers and more information that saved my behind more than once…some I should have listened to in the first place. Stick with the nice. Not all of us run across the search function first thirty times in here. Back to seats! In addition to the suggestions I have seen, I have also heard that early '80's Camaro seats fit with minor refab, but I do not know of anyone who has done it. Ultimately, if you can find seats that fit you, and can drill some holes through some body (maybe some frame too) parts, seats are going to be a handful of bolts into the vehicle. Many should "fit" and not be much work to make it so. Things you need to worry about are reasonable attach points and such. Really, I hear lots of folks going Neon, so I would go that way…especially since they made a zillion of those things, and they are all over the yards. Welcome to Ratsun. These folks are way better than their bickering makes them seem. Please come back with photos… I am interested in your engine rebuild, if you have pics of that...
  13. Try the remote start. Also, hook up the actual fuel lines. Those would be where I would go… no starter power, or not enough gas. No relay that I know of, but there are those WAY more Datsun educated than I. Now when you mean, no crank, do you mean no electric engaged t the starter, or do you mean the motor does not turn? If either, then what part doesn't turn?
  14. When you stop at the parts store, get a filter also. Too cheap to let that be the issue. Sometimes a tank flush is in Order also. These trucks are old and have odd things inside them.
  15. Thanks Mike. At last test, and to the best of my memory, compression was around 125psi in each cylinder and varied by less than 10%. I am thinking this will prevent further issue, and basically give me a "brand new motor". For the cost difference, it seems like a "may as well" kind of thing.
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