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About bajango
- Birthday 09/23/1995
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Portland
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Cars
1971 521
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Interests
Working on cars and electronics
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Occupation
Parts counter at Baxter Auto parts
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Oh. That answers that then. Thank you
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I was curious if changing the idler and pitman arm from being parallel to intersecting changes anything about steering dynamics/geometry/whatever you wanna call it. Sorry for my poor Microsoft paint skills haha. I don't know much about steering besides basic toe, camber and caster alignment stuff. The arrows represent the pivot point.
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I don't know how much to price stuff. Can I get some help? Here's my list and what I think its worth, judging from some interweb surfing (yes I know, point and laugh). Lemme know, because I am unsure! I can add pictures if wanted Rebuilt 219 Closed chamber head, has a regrind stock-ish L20b cam $500 Dual Weber Side draft Canon Intake w/ linkages with your choice of rebuilt Weber 40 dcoe or 45 dcoe $800 Rebuilt Pair of Weber dcoe with no intake $500 Offenhauser intake for 4 Barrel carb $250 Mallory Unilite optical trigger distributor $150 New Round port headers $100 185,000mi Stock running L20b from a grandpa 720 $500 5Spd transmission from the same truck $250 Brand new 521 grille with a repop SSS badge $250 1968/1969 ribbed valve cover $50 Oil pump $50 Thermostat housing and block outlet $50
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The 219 heads pop up every so often. I bought one after a month or two of lurking a couple of Datsun parts groups on facebook and the classifieds here. In fact I may be selling mine soon. I've been getting serious about selling my 521 and L parts and buying a roadster. Still on the fence. My point is, they're out there to be had still.
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That looks really awesome! I've always liked the first generation MR2s. Keep up the good work. Do you plan on doing a 20v swap?
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Could these work for a CA18?
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Well hopefully the L20 will give me some umph.
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Yeah, you may be right. The reason I'm doing all of this work is because I cannot find Z-E parts. It also helps that I work at a parts store where I can get a better rate on some parts.
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The way I see it, I could build a turbo L with FI for ~$3000 and have more power. Or I could build all motor for L for ~$2000. I'm trying to keep it milder for a 521. It won't ever have the power to the ground potential of a 510 or Z.
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Well let me see if I can make you guys understand what I am doing. I think I am almost getting everything working out the way I want it to. Jeep rods- 155.57mm in center to center 56.096mm big end diameter 27.051 big end width Jeep bearings are too small even at .060 undersized so I need an alternative I would also have to mill a ~.125mm on both sides of the big end width for the side tolerances I would need a piston with a 29mm compression height. RB26DETT pistons would do the job with 1mm milled off the top or I can run Mitsu 4g63 pistons at a compression height at 28.7. I haven't looked at all of my alternatives for pistons. I think some honda H22 ones worked too but I can't find the part listing now. I am at a deck clearance of .180mm below with the 4g63 pistons. That brings my rod ratio to 1.8. I could run a specific set of small block chevy rods at 6" and have a piston compression height of 32mm (for example vg30) and be .950mm below deck as well. My rod ratio is at 1.77. I forgot what bearing I would be running for that now. I never recorded that. oops. I think they were big block chevy. Do you guys see what I am trying to do? I figure as long as the tolerances are all met, the possibilities are innumerable. I'm just wanting to make sure I wasn't missing another small detail that will ruin my whole plan. Nothing I have looked at lists small end with, so I would have to actually measure a set of in stock parts before I order what I want.
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What kind of complications could I run into using mismatched rods and rod bearings? For example I am looking into small block chevy bearings and jeep rods.