70Goon

I still have all the parts available. 72510 - I work in San ramon, CA just over the hill from Richmond if you wanted the hood. I could bring it to my work if you are really interested. Hulk, unfortunately shipping the hood would be way too expensive and I dont really have time to anyways with work and all. :( soz! There are a few people interested in the Fenders that are also in the Bay so its pretty much first come first serve. Thanks for your time, david

Hey all, I am looking to get rid of some parts that have been laying around. Currently i have an Orange hood in great condition. No rust, no dents, maybe some minor dings. 2 drivers side fenders....ok condition and one pass fender. Also have a stock L16 radiator and shroud. Located in San Jose,CA will not ship so local pickup only please. Looking to get maybe like $100 for everything. maybe $20 for the not so good fender, $40-50 for the other two. Radiator and Shroud - $10 Hood - $50 obo. *blinker socket and lens not included. Stock Hubcaps - great condition - $50 ***All prices are best offer. Come by and check them out if you want. Text or call me and i will be happy to shoot some pics to you. 408-960-5302 Thanks, David BTW, Garage sale only today. If i cant get rid of these parts, I'd be happy to sell them or keep em....

I have a similar issue with my goon. When I replace the fuse for the running lights/guages etc.. and turn on the lights...the fuse blows and only my headlights work. When i replace the fuse without turning on the headlights, everything works. Signals,wipers,guages, etc etc....Could this regulator in the cluster be an issue as well? There are some times where I replace the fuse and i can drive for a short distance with no problems but then it just reappears again. I have not tried replacing the fuse and running the car at a higher idle though. Thanks, D

I have the ermish setup on my goon and the only thing that needed some cuttin was the top lip of the tower where the black plug sits. nothing more nothing less. You can see in my post from the last pic of the passenger tower near the fuel reg. My link

I am pretty sure the olive green battlewagon you posted has a 4 link rear suspension which is pretty expensive to do unless you can fab and weld your own stuff. I am in the same boat as you regarding my decision for the rear setup as well. The fronts on my goon are stock 510 struts with an Ermish coilover kit running 16x7 205/40/16's all around. Yes the front rubs when cornering hard and yes I do bottom out on the fenders but I think that if I were to roll the front fenders, i wouldnt have that issue. My rear end is stock but I was planning on doing either the overload removal with 2" blocks or getting them dearched. There are a set of Monroe overload springs out there that are pretty cheap to help stiffen the ride but I havent gotten that far just yet. Like everyone else said, you can only lower the rear so far until you need to make adjustments to the trans tunnel etc etc.....

I am running 16x7 0 offset konig rewinds on my wagon with stock 510 struts with ermish coilovers and camber plates. The car is lowered in the front with some camber and they dont stick out at all. From what I hear, the offset is somewhere around +20-25mm or so for 510 rims to be behind the fender on stock struts but im not 100% sure. Not the greatest shot but for an example

Monday bump! $6k $5500-5000 if you come this weekend. No tire kickers please. I'm tired of wasting my time with prospects that seem to fall off the planet. The car is priced well for the mods installed and is good to go. Tags are up this month but will cost like $60 for renewal. The car has some rust in the usual areas, floor pan perfect. Nothing serious enough that would warrant a panel change or cutting of any sheetmetal. Running ligts work without the headlights on but fuse blows when you turn on the HL's. HL's work but not the running lights when you do turn them on. Minor grounding issue somewhere I'm sure but I have not had any time to work on her. Thanks again for looking. If you have any questions, I will gladly respond to you on the forums.

November bump. Had a possible trade going but the guy vanished into thin air. Still for sale. Everything spare I have will go with the car. Thanks for lookin! David

Still for sale. Make a reasonable offer and take this sick wagon off my hands. Willing to sell the complete running motor and trans for $4k. Specs are up top and you are welcome to check it out as it runs now. Car is very very very fast. Still gets my blood flowing just cruising it. Complete car 6K! Plus all the extra parts i have in my garage. Hood, fenders, door panels etc etc....Motor has maybe 300 miles on it. Thanks for looking, David

Price bump $6500 OBO Thanks!

Bored at work bump! $7000 OBO thanks

If I could Clay I'd be happy to. The car is up for 7K which I think is reasonable seeing as how I spent double the asking price so far. Open to reasonable cash offers but will not trade or part out the car. Just too much trouble. Sorry!

humpday bump! Still for sale.

If you are going to lower the rear, make sure you have the right pinion angle or your DS will rub like a crappy massage chair.

I have not been able to make it out to the dyno but supposedly somewhere near 185 to the rear.