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datphu

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Marcos, CA
  • Cars
    '07 WRX Wagon, '68 Datsun 510 4dr, 05 Mercedes C230

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  1. Nice racks. You say they sit low to the roof line but I'm curious to know exactly how low. The lower the better in my opinion.
  2. This was already listed on BAT. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-510-5/
  3. If you're looking for idler arm bushings made of Delrin but don't want the thrust washers, you can also check out http://www.dpracing.co/datsun-510-front-suspension-1
  4. Great thread. I remember running across your YouTube video of the white 69 510.
  5. The one at Carmel Mountain? I want to, but just haven't been able to make it just yet. But eventually I will make it, hopefully for the next one.
  6. I'm interested in the seats. PM me with what you're looking to get for them.
  7. Ok, I think I know what spacer you're referring to, it's on the underside of the fender well. I called it the washer but I think that's the thick spacer that you're talking about. I kept everything there that was supplied by T3.
  8. Not sure what you mean by spacer, but here's how the top looks: The inside fender has the flip if what you see here, it has the rubber bushing on top and the washer seated on the shock piston.
  9. Not much to update, but I did do some fine tuning to the alignment and seems to be better now. Still haven't installed the rear Porterfield R4-S shoes but the brakes are feeling better after being bedded and broken in. Even with the stock master cylinder I'm able to lock up the wheels when I want to and have decent braking distance. I really heated up the rotors and pads during my braking tests and the caliper paint is still holding up. I've been driving it to work at least once a week and it's been great.
  10. I ordered some Porterfied R4-S pads/shoes for all four corners but so far just installed the fronts and bleed them. I'll do the rears later. Just took it for the initial test drive after all the changes and it drove pretty good. For how low it is I don't hear much rubbing, even with the 15x7 +0 wheels and 195/50-15 tires. The steering feels much better but it still seems to be a bit vague on center. Only thing left is to rebuild the steering box but I don't think it's that bad to warrant that. Maybe that's just to be expected from a 48 year old car. My "eye-ball" alignment seems to have worked out ok because the car tracks pretty straight. And with the stock master cylinder, the brakes seem to be working well. I still need install the rear shoes and bed everything in so hopefully that should make them feel even better. I'll keep it like this for now and decide later if I want to upgrade to the 280Z master cylinder (and put on the new brake lines at the same time). For now, it's back on the road... and I've been waiting eagerly for a while for that to happen. Not sure what's in store next, but I know I'm going to have a lot of fun enjoying it just the way it is.
  11. Thanks guys. As far as putting the stockers back on, I don't think they'll fit over the 280ZX calipers. That was the main reason for getting 15's, that and adding more rubber on the ground. Thanks for the advice about the anti-seize, but it doesn't rain much here so I don't think I'll be needing it. Also, I won't be driving it in the rain anyway. New slotted rotors came in today. Now I just need to order the brake pads and speed bleeders.
  12. I've been working on the car here and there making slow progress where I can. I managed to get everything bolted up and down on the ground. It appeared I would have issues with the brake caliper and the tie rod bolt, so I swapped the passenger and driver side struts so that the calipers are in the front now. No more clearance issue. I ended up getting a Delrin idler arm bushing and figured I'd try using some needle thrust bearings as well, similar in theory to the kit that Troy Ermish sells (but for less money). I also decided to paint the brake calipers and hubs after cleaning them up. Camber plates are set to the max negative setting to allow for as much fender clearance as possible. Looks like I'll need to roll the fenders in a bit to allow for more room. It currently has the rotors and brake pads from the donor strut setup. I mounted them up just to see how things would align, but I'm going to replace them. I haven't connected the brake line to the calipers yet as I'm still trying to decide if I want to attempt getting the old brake lines off and replacing them with the stainless lines I picked up. I gave up trying to remove them earlier in fear that I would just end up stripping the flare nut and would have to replace the hard line. I might just keep the stock rubber lines for now and replace them once I upgrade the master cylinder. So the car is on the ground now and supporting it's own weight. It's sitting pretty low, but I like it. Will need to get the brakes finished before I can see how it actually drives being this low. Here's the before picture when I first got the car: And here's how it looks now:
  13. Sweet SE-R! I had a '93 that looked just like that. Fun little car, but way more fun when you throw in a T-28 turbo out of a GTI-R! Some initial upgrades you could do pretty easily is to swap out the front brakes and radiator with those from a Nissan NX2000.
  14. Latest progress report is that I was attempting to remove the rubber brake hoses and replace them with some steel braided ones I picked up. However, those flare nut bolts are proving to be a huge PITA to remove. So I figured for now I would leave them be and focus on putting the suspension and steering components back together. Here's a shot of the initial test fit that I did. Haven't tightened anything down, just wanted to put it together to see how everything would fit together. So far, it's looking good.
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