BvtnDave

See you there.

bananahamuck: I did buy a roll of cork gasket material from NAPA. ($9.02) Yes, making my own will be easy. In this case, the transmission was very clean inside and out - and was evidently "harvested" from a low-mileage 510 quite some time ago. A replacement cork gasket will certainly last for as long as I will need, and just feels better to me than using (even modern) goop.

As for the cost of buying from the online seller, it is really a matter of principle for me. I have purchased a lot of parts (for my Datsun Roadsters) from this source, and it just seems like the recent price increases are somewhat excessive. My hope was one of the typical aftermarket gasket providers would have a listing for such a (formerly) common vehicle, but as you note, the newest Dimes are 50+ years old now. Related to this, it is also a common experience for me to find an online seller has simply found a supplier with stock, buys them on the cheap and quadruples the price. Such is life. One would hope the Datsun community would look out for each other - which it does, for the most part - but self-interest is a motivator for many.

datzenmike: The distributor I intend to use (for my L18 SSS build) came off the Japan-sourced L18 engine I once had, and appears to only have D409-54K stamped on it. There are no other numbers (such as 22100-?????) evident.

On the bright side, the chart shared by DARIN 510 confirms the application for this unit is for '70-'74 L16 SSS & L18 SSS. So, given that the dizzy in hand is in VGC and is appropriate for my current L18 SSS setup, I am confident in using it.

One other cool thing  of note: The distributor came directly from Japan with a blue cap and blue rotor. These appear to be OEM type parts, and somehow, I found the same blue parts - new - in my stash. 

Thanks

Loving this conversation.  The chart shared by DARIN 510 answers the questions regarding the numbers on the distributors I have in hand. And, the insight by datzenmike will be most helpful when tuning my build.

datzenmike nailed it. That is the gasket, for sure.  It seems Crashtd420 has found a source, and I now know that part will fit. Just seems like an excessive price to me. One would hope Felpro or some supplier would have a listing. No doubt someone has a few of these sitting around somewhere. Thanks.

Initial inquires have left me stumped. The local Nissan dealer is unable to supply a PL510 4-speed transmission pan gasket. (PN 32162-14810)

This is not surprising, but a few other stabs at sourcing aftermarket substitutes have yielded nada. Who has info on what/where to buy this part?

Thanks

Thanks All for your feedback and input. After careful examination, the numbers I shared appear to be the only ones present. Also, it is evident none of them (regardless of the vacuum advance threaded/not-threaded attachment points) are not for a Roadster - as they have a different base with a tach cable drive.

So, the idea of using the SSS L18 unit remains top of mind.

Sorting through the old stash of L-series 4-cylinder distributors today. Many similarities, some differences. (All on hand are single-point type).

As for identification, they seem to have stamped marks (ID for characteristics?) that may mean - what?

One thing I know for certain is the unit with the blue distributor cap came with the Japanese market L18 SSS I bought a very long time ago.

Thoughts on these? I'm inclined to use the SSS dizzy as my build is an L18 with the SU carburetors. What says the tribe?

Thanks iceman510 and all who replied. The tribe comes through again.

Here is a bit of mystery: So far, the usual suppliers are coming up empty in my quest to find the two-hole fuel line grommets for PL 510 that are located in the RF corner of the engine compartment (below the factory fuel filter location) and under the fuel tank where the lines pass through the floor of the car. 

Does anyone have a source for these?

Thanks

Looking ahead as I reassemble my 2-Door Dime: Any suggestions for more modern/recent front seats that will fit well in a 2-Door? I would prefer to stay in the Nissan family if possible - and like separate/adjustable headrests of some type. (No high-back one piece). Not in love with excessively high side bolsters, so there's that. Of course, whatever is found must tilt forward to allow rear seat access.

This is really wide open, but something along the lines of a Sentra (maybe?) or any model that isn't long extinct and may be a likely donor seems like a starting point. Cloth or vinyl would work, (leather drops to #3 on my list) and I do have some fabric that very closely resembles the original (black) vinyl if recovering is needed. In the alternative, a pair of original seats in VGC might work as well. (The set I have is junk. Too far gone to revive, IMO).

What say you, Ratsun folk?

Do not waste your time and money trying to get anything from "Classic Datsun Parts Store", run by "Nyangweso Usbpoayawzta", (AKA Issaiah Nyangweso  - nissaiah300@outlook.com - and associated with his "wife" Princess Knight-Adams - princessknight711@gmail.com - and "colleague" Juliet Muthoka - mjuliet40@outlook.com) doing "business" on Instagram.  He will tell you his parts are to be shipped via FedEx, and then have "Global Cargo Incorporated" (424-242-3029) reach out to you asking for a "refundable" "insurance" charge. He will also tell you that Global Cargo is affiliated with FedEx. 

This person is listing a huge inventory of parts - way more than anyone is likely to actually have. 

Good news! I am planning to attend. 

Note: This event is on the same day as the Providence Bridge Pedal bike ride - which causes closures of I-405 and and various bridges from 5 am - noon. So, for those planning on driving to Blue Lake - especially from the West Side, keep that in mind and select a route that will avoid the traffic chaos.

Looking forward to seeing everyone there.

Dan,

First let me say we, as part of the Datsun community, really appreciate all of the effort you and your family have put into this annual gathering over these many years. 

I have enjoyed so many encounters with like-minded enthusiasts while attending, and have been fortunate to make some lasting friendships at Blue Lake.

So, if you need some assistance - including financial - to get back on track, feel free to contact me. Perhaps we can get other participants in this forum to reach out to Oregon Parks as well. This may help them understand the significance of our interest in keeping the tradition alive. Strength in numbers may have an impact.

Enjoy the Ride!

Dave

I have been working on a 4-door Dime. Among the parts on hand are two similar - but different - (RH) rear door glass channels that secure the glass run rubber and hold the fixed window in place. One of them has stainless cladding (see photo) while the other matches the painted type as found on the LH side. 

While I am not sure about the origin of the part with the cladding, adding the "bling" to the LH side appeals to me. 

So, here are the questions:

Does anyone know the origin of the part with the cladding? Could it be from a wagon or different year-model than my car (1972)? And, most importantly (to me, anyway) does anyone have a LH part I can get from them?

BTW: I am also looking to source the LR rain gutter trim strip for my car. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks for your feedback. See you at Powerland in June.

Good to know. Will reach out. Thanks.

Any and all Datsun parts you can print will be welcome. One idea I have had for a long time: The cowl vent trim pieces for the Datsun 1200 Coupe. They are a cool feature on these cars and are nearly extinct in useable condition.

Thanks to those responding. It's nice to see the progress on the Dime I used as the basis for my color inquiry. It has come a long way.

The 021 Datsun code looks promising - though the code for the 620 in "Kelly Green" is listed as 940.

More research is in order to get either one from PPG - though their #44432 seems correct. Just want to be sure to do this right.

Thanks Colbino. zcardepot looks to have other items I will need.

Can anyone tell me if there is a source or a substitute for the plastic pieces that go under the front fenders along the top edge of the area where they are mounted to the body? They have holes in them where the bolts for mounting the fenders pass trough. Thanks

OK, pardon me if I have been unable to find this on my own. It appears there is quite a lot of incomplete information around, and the links I looked at seem a bit conflicted. (Many of the color charts have numbers, but no colors attached, and vice-versa).

What I am hoping the collective knowledge of our forum will determine is: What is the paint code (specific to PPG, if that is even possible?) for my green 1972 PL 510 4-door?

Specifically, this color appears to me - and has been referred to as - "Kelly Green", which is the brighter of several green paint options out there. Note: The Dime in this photo is NOT my car, but the paint color is the same. The 620 below is probably more representative of what the color looks like when shiny and new. Any help will be appreciated.

Seeking recommendations for someone to prep and paint my 510 4-door. 

Prefer Washington County or SW location as car is disassembled and must be transported. 

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

I will just put a nose mask (bra) on my Z and show up at Blue Lake. 

BTW: For some reason the pic I posted with the above did not appear with the text. What is up with that?

My first car was a Datsun. A 1600 Roadster, which I still own. Subsequently, I had numerous 510's, a few 620's, a sweet 810 Hardtop, some B210's & 210's, a 710 Hardtop, and, for a while, an A10/510 Wagon. So, about 20 Datsuns in all - but never a Z-Car. This hole in my "resume'" could not stand!

Last summer, I found a 1973 240Z (4-speed) with known history, and: Under 38K original miles. (Documents support this, pedal pads, paint and glass back that up). No rust anywhere, (honest, I looked very carefully, and the car was undercoated when new) never crashed (LH door poorly repainted/"blended" during original ownership after a rock was thrown up by a passing car, scratching - not denting - the lower part of the door). The interior is 99% perfect. No cracking or fading anywhere, as it was always garaged by PO's, and myself.

Who knew something like this could turn up on CL in Next-to-Nowhere Oregon? Don't worry: I did not buy it for a ridiculously low price, but paid a fair amount - just under the asking price.

This car is pretty much stock - only a few mods that I am reversing, and a few I am undertaking. (Such as removing the four-barrel carburetor setup owner #2 dropped in. I have a perfectly redone set of early round-top SU's, which will go in with an exhaust manifold that does not have the smog equipment and air-injection stuff). A better exhaust must follow, I suspect, as the one from the factory is still mounted, and is nearing the end of its days.

I will not be doing anything to this Z that canot be unwound, but am open to ideas those more knowledgeble than myself may know to make for a better Z experience..

So far, I replaced the original clutch, shocks, brake hoses and fuel hoses. I always liked the 280ZX 6-spoke wheels, so switched to those. (BTW: The wheels I took off - shown in the photo - are available, if anyone wants to trade/purchase).

I'm getting the dash bulbs in, and sprung for a re-worked quartz clock conversion. Also ditched the melted fuse block and added headlamp/park lamp relays. Next up is replacing the aged rubber suspension bits with neoprene upgrades, and installing F & R anti-sway bars. Another thing high on my list: Switching out those ugly-ass Oregon "Tree" license plates this summer when it is time to renew the registrtation. I'm thinking "Pacific Wonderland" plates would be much better.

Should be a really nice "survivor" - and I plan to drive it as much as possible. (Which  would be more pleasant/safer with improved seat belts. Any suggestions on that?)

Looking forward to how this goes.