Raggleflaggle

The box doesn't have any external connections, so it doesn't have a Start or Run position. I'm guessing it was supposed to be heat based in some way, as it doesn't have a vaccum port or aything else connected to it. If i read your post right, i should be able to put the points that are currently on the - and connect them to the left terminal on this ballast(yellow wire), and that Should protect the points from additional wear. Then just use a relay(?) that connects the coil - and the points directly when the key is in Start position?

In case anyone needs to know, the little box has some sort of alternate internal grounding path or something that was preventing the points from properly interrupting/suppying ground. Not sure if faulty or by design. Ended up just putting coil - to the points output. Motor runs fine now. Pretty sure this bypasses both ballasts fwiw. 🤷‍♂️

Igniter isn't right word i guess. Its the rusty box that sits on top of the coil in the pictures. It connects to both the ballasts, the points in the dist, and the neg. On the coil. Kinda figured it was something that was important to a points system that isn't present on newer ignition systems. I'll just have to go get an FSM to know for sure.

It does, but goes to the igniter(?) Box on top of the coil first, then to the negative. If i put the points directly to the neg. Coil connection, that will be how the car was when it came in. Suggesting a bad ignition box. But at least that way it should have spark. Still no idea what the little side box that connects to nothing does. Must not be essential?

Not sure if this doodle shows it well enough, but this is hoe i have.

It has new points, maybe i've gapped them wrong? I just youtube'd it, and gapped them at .017. I guess it should be more. Would still spark even if the gap is off a little, yeah? They close fully when not engaged by the cam in the distributor. Dist. Body is grounded as is the little wire at the end of the points.

This majigger is unplugged, no obvious connector in sight... it isn't actually connected to the coil or to the igniter box in any way. Unless i'm missing a piece.

I have power at coil, used a multimeter. I'm thinking something to do with the points not telling the coil to fire? Dist. Has ground. Points are gapped at .017? Does that sound reasonable? I don't have a spec for this particular engine. Still should generate a signal and have spark, right?

Just put ground to neg. On coil. Got sparks.

I'll likely have to dig out the book for it, i think i have a more generic one thst covers that generation of car/motor.

I'd appriciate the hell outta that. Car came to me not running, so i don't even know how a running 2tc is wired.

That is exactly how i'm testing. Tried with the #1 plug wire and the coil lead. No difference.

The mystery wire -appears- to go to the points. The PO had it connected to the - coil connection assumably trying to bypass the box. I have tried both ways, neither worked. The box has what looks like a secondary resistor underneath the primary resistor. Hot start or cold start assist? Some situation where spark needs adjusted that doesn't correlate with vaccum?

Trying to revive this old wagon, hasn't run in at least five years. getting a no spark condition. NEW points+condenser Cap+rotor Plugs+wires Coil+ballast New coil tests @ 1.8 and 9.97. The points open and close properly as far as i can tell. The coil is getting power. Motor is grounded. Plugs are gapped correctly. Only mystery item is the ignition box that is attached to the coil. Yellow wire to output of ballast, black wire to negative on coil. Mystery red wire that goes nowhere. Pics will be posted asap

What is this manual valve you speak of? I'm not going the be able to do anything elaborate, it's very much a "come get it out my yard" type deal. No common issues or anything like that with that gen of sentra?

Tried to order about a month ago, the FL based seller cancelled the order and messaged that they were out of stock. Any other sources?

I may be able to snap one up on the cheap, besides regular transmission fluid analytics and trigonomical shifter handle fiddling what else could i diagnosticate with? I have read tell of some shift cable stay clip that may pop off, but have only found dead image links of it.

yeah that's about right on the money in my area. you can't make a poor quality shell that straight and paint it for that much here, but you also could likely find a driveline for less than 2500 that runs. i paid under a grand for mine, delivered, not running. 2wd tho.

turns out some of my issue was ignition side problems, new cap and rotor and it fired right up. prev. cap and rotor were new, but had black plastic, and silver contacts. never seen that before. New parts have bronze colored contacts. I didn't think chinesium was an actual different materal, i just thought it was a metaphor for poor quality control...

mine also sat for a long time, i think about 8-10 yrs. I replaced my short paper in tank filter, and in line filter. i think a few months ago. found a paper filter easily enough then.

dash pic is of it running, or at least registering an engine speed...

wiki confirms for posterity even if trans is same model, bell housing/front cass is different, with a diagram. it's just only listed under the "bell housing" page and not the transmission one. have seen the roadster seating position and all i believe it has the selector farther back, just by eyeballing it. i'd put the whole r16 driveline in all together, but when i see next to no research on it, it does make me think something like a sump/pickup tube is in the wrong place. not to mention roadster guys aren't exactly out hunting the A15s, so it must not be worth it. i'd love to have enough free time to even halfass fix this motor, i'm hoping the dozens of smoke-belching freeway miles aren't screwing the innards up too badly or anything. i just can't take the time off to fix it. if you have recommendations for a basic ring kit, i'm all ears. i can at least buy it and look at it. did get a possible lead from putting up a WTB ad, Ratsun ftw.🤘

A significant change in circumstance has led to a shortage of functioning motor vehicles in my fleet. Tired little B210 is having to pick up DD slack, and after a compression test, shows roughly 120PSI across all cyl, and from what i've read the spec is supposed to be ~150. The bottom end has taken up a hobby of beatboxing, and vaping, despite my advice not to. closest shot in the dark junkyard motor i can find is 300 miles away, but a local listing has a 1600 roaster motor and trans. the 1200 wiki lists the same transmission models for the R motor and the A, but no real info on compatability. If i get really lucky and things bolt/line up, the only hurdles i can see are mounts that need made and maybe an issue adapting the ignition a little. what else can go wrong?