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Does anybody know if 240-260 Z a/c compressor bracket would work on a L20B. I would like to add air to my 510 and was checking out nogstoliac air and they have the parts for 240-260, so i just thought I'd ask. I have the under dash part but looking for the rest of the pcs. thanks.

On the firing order and dist. placement I ment that the number plug wire is in the bottom position pointing toward the carbs and not the header, but the plug wires are in the correct sequence. I dont think this would make a differece on how it runs since they are in the right order. I can get 15-18 Initial advance but then the total advace is like 43 and if doent run as good. The more intial advance I give it starts to slighty ping. The PO had it set with that much advance but thats when there was no valve clearance and car wouldnt start when it was cold. I adjusted the valves with to .10 clearance. Starts right up. The head has been milled and it has 10to1 compression. I did compression check and I am getting around 210 on the first three and 185 #4. I want to recheck this and do a wet check also.

Thanks for the response. I dont want to put my door panel back on until i fix it. what location or part no. I check Olympia Nissan and that didnt know of any.

I am needing some inner window channel felt for a 71 510. This is the stuff that holds the windown in place when you roll it down. My window is rattling around and would like to fix it. Anybody have any ideas for where to locate or a good way to make one. thanks, mike

Thanks for the responses. My distibutor looks like the one in the picture but with the high tensor pointy rotor with the MSD 6 ignitor and it really ignites. When I pulled the plugged wires off while it was running it really sparks, and each cylinder dropped off about the same. The plugged wires are in the correct order but I guess the distibutor was installed 1/4 turn off. I guess it really wouldnt affect performance. Intial timing 5 advance about 28, if I give more intial it will slighty ping at WOT. What else could be holding this engine back. L20B, cam, headers u67 head, dual 40dcoe's. dogleg 5speed.

The engine is 1978 L20B with MSD box and electroinc dist. just a rotor no points.

Help, I been working on my 71 510 and just not happy with the performance of the 1978 L20B I was looking at the plug wires and the firing order trying to see if they are correct. I looked up the firing order on the 620 site and checked it to mine and this is what i found. My number 1 plug wire is in the position of where the number 3 wire is on the distibutor cab #3 wire is in where the number 4 wire should be on the cap. #4 wire is where number 2 should be on the dist. cap #2 wire is where 1 should be on the dist. The car starts up and runs ok idle is rough. I have checked the cam timing and it seems tobe correct. I've pulled the plug wires while it was running and each cylinder drops off a little. If i put the the engine at TDC with the cam at 10 and 2 shoud the rotor be pointing to number 1 on the dist. cap. Would it hurt anything if I switched the wires to how they should be? I just think this thing should fly with cam, headers , dual carbs, its kinda of dog.

Mine seems to be closet to number 3 dowell pin and slot . The numbers are not stamped right under the holes like your pic. So would that mean mine is advanced 12Degree's or 4 ? and would that be why it seems to run better with the timing arouond 0-5 degrees. The intake and exhaust look right 10-2. I also check TDC on the piston and my mark on the crank pulley and it almost seems like the number 4 piston is almost higher than number one. Can you PM pictures?

Which way would the dash be in the v notch to be retarded or advanced. thanks mike

Thanks for the response. Being a newbie trying sort out what I have. Compression is 10 to 1 with U67 milled head with header, Dual DCOE 40's. I did a compression test and have 210psi. I am also have MSD box and pointless dist. I guess i'll leave the timming around zero advance and recheck the total advance, if you thinki it now big deal. Running 140 main jets with 32 chokes, it kinda gargles around 3000 rmps when I put my foot to the floor, I think maybe the 225 air corrector are to big and going to try 180 or 200, see if that helps. I am installing a O2 sensore to get a better reading on the jets. Straight exhaust to the muffler, I am going to add Resonater and Flowmaster muffler, hopefully this would get rid of the fart can sound and give me a little more low end torque.

doesnt really seem like a proformance cam to much. I check the v on the cam gear and it pretty close halfway in the notch. It seems to run better when the timing is at zero or five to 6 degrees advance and it goes up to 28 total. Does this seem out of line or strange?

I am trying to figure out if my cam timing is correct. Here is a couple of pics. I thought the number two should be on top. Anybody see anything out of wack. I also am trying to figure out the cam, i used a mirror to see on the rear of it and its got number 101l, t4.12, 288, 412. These make any sense. Please help. If just doenst seem like I am getting the power for 2.0 with 10 to 1 compression, cam headers, dual carbs. HOW CAN I POST MY PICS? thanks, mike

Looking for a stock exhuast header or manifold for L20B.

i am looking for an a/c unit have any pics? please post them thanks, mike

i am intersted in the ac unit, could you please email me a few pics kenalloy@aol.com thanks

Ok I finally got it figured out tonight. I unplugged the two white wires from the stock tach when I was trying to get that going and that what was is giving me the power to my on run position. I am really not sure why it is wired this way. It seems i need the two white wires to hook up the stock tach. Originally the two white wires hooked into the ballest resistor that hooked up to the postivie side of the coil. Now the two wires come out of the stock tach then tie into the BW and BL and this is where I am picking up my key on to turn on the msd box. (nothing was wrong with the igniton key or module) Does any of this make sense? I still want to hook up my stock tach but according to the MSD tach adapter I should use one of the white wires since they were orginally hooked up to the + side of the coil. ( but if i disconect the white wires I loose my power in the run position.) ? What are the white wires doing in side the tach to complete the circuit? Am i wrong could the green wire be the pick up wire? Anyway this is the update for now.

Yep thats the seats I got. I try and contact him. Thanks

I'll take a picture of it tonight. I dont see where you add pics. thanks

I think on the not turning off I probably didnt line up the lock mark on the ingiton I am going to check that tonight. I have two Regulator looking things on the back of the shock tower by the fuse box what are the two things. One has 3 wires going to it. The other one has a plug in wire connector.

Got tired to of trying to figure it out so I wired up the MSD box through a relay and she fired right up, and nothing started smoking. Dailed in the carbs and went to shut it off and it kept running. I killed it with my switch to the msd box. I am going to put in a new ignition and see if that helps. i have one dim headlight and one bright not sure what going on there. and My wipers quit working. Smothing it going on.

Just picked some up off ebay anybody put these in there 510? Hard to do? any pics or advice? They look nice and alot more supportive that the seats i have. Would 280Z seat belts work in the 510?

Ok I double checked the plug the White/Red power with key on Blue Black power with key on Black/white Powe with key on Black/yellow nothing this goes straight to starter Black/Blue Nothing with key on. I dont have a wire running from the ing. swicth to coil. I have two wire out of the msd box to the coil orange+ side and black. - ground. I know before that MSD box was getting power from the ing. switch on the run postion. There is no power where that wire is hooked up. I am worried about making a jumper wire that i could fry something out. Would you want to call me on my cell 314-550-4892. Maybe we could get this straightend out. It hight noon right now. Thanks mike

I'll take a look at it tonight. Anything else to look for? could the selinoid be bad? i was trying jump the starter with a screw driver when I was adjusting the valves could I have fried the something?

I check power at the starter ok the wire underneathe the main power cable on starter from the battery nothing with the key. No power on the postion for the key oil light and charge light lights up with the key in on postion.

Which one is the power on wire while running? Thanks mike