imtb

I have been cleaning up a L20B block and was wondering if normaly plugged the crankcase vent hole. What is the method of plugging it. I can post pic tomorrow if you need to see what I am asking about. thanks mike

Seat out a early bmer. Had to make special brackets but I didnt drill any new holes. I also dynomated the floor and doors that made a world of difference in the noise. I also had to replace some window felt and seals.

Here is a few shots of my interior. Just got the back seat in and the door panels recovered. New dash. and recovered the arm rest for the console. Pretty happy with how it turned out. http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture049.jpg http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture048.jpg http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture047.jpg http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture046.jpg

I have U67 head with u20 cam for $50.00 if anyone needs it. It complete with valves, springs and cam. Looks to be flat I checked it with a machinist rule. I'll can ship it ups. PM me or respond with email. thanks mike

Finally figured out how to put these BMW seats in my 510 had to make custom brackets other wise my head would hit the roof. They are nice and comfy and hold you in place pretty good.

Photobucket works pretty easy. Here is shot of my BMW seat I put in. I had to make cutsom brackets and use my welding skills(ha). Also shot of the engine I put the air horns back on since this pic. http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture004.jpg http://i555.photobucket.com/albums/jj449/imtb/Picture005.jpg

Here's my midwest 510. Just figured out photo bucket so we'll see how it works.

Motor was just warm(not hot) when I performed the test. I had the vavle cover off so I could make sure both vavles where closed. I had the butterfly on the carbs proped open. I could not hear any hissing coming fromthe throat on the carbs. The only sound i could here was coming from the dipstick tube and the crankcase up through the timing chain cavity. When i would move the engine past TDC I would hear the hissing out the carbs or exhuast. i was thinking about just keep running the way it is and and rebuilding another engine to swap out. I found a long block for $125.00 local and talked to a local machine shop who was pretty knowelagable about the L20B. I picked up an rebult A87 Head with 490/290 cam. So I could go this route and take me time. Then I could just put my carbs, header, and what everelse on the rebuilt. Any input?

Now it seems to only be leaking past the rings into the crankcase. I am getting a lot of blow by coming out the breather tube, i guess that is an indication of bad rings?

I'll give that a try tonight. I was wondering if the oil would help seal the rings when its running. I am curious to see if the valves will leak. thanks, mike

I just adjusted the valves less than a month ago so they should be in spec. Should I squirt some oil in the spark plug hole when the piston is at TDC? Then do the leak test?

I was thinking about putting a new head on the L20B but thought maybe I should see how engine test out. I did compression check and had good compression 210psi. So i thought it was still pretty good. Then last night I did a leak down test to see where all my power is going since the car doesnt really run that great. Well on cylinder 1,2,4, i have 20percent lose blowing by the pistons rings into the crankcase and on #3 30 percent. The plug and top the #3 piston is has oil build up and always has some oil on the base of the plug. The vavles seem to sealing tight no sound coming out the carbs or exhaust. Just curious if anyone else has done leak down test and what kind of reading you got. If you can let me know I would appreciate it. Now i am trying to decide if I should pull the engine and rebuild it or what to do.

Here is the contact info. He charged me 33.00 for a 1/2 roll Rod 1-888-257-7773 http://www.rodsdatsun.com

Another question. How can I make sure I am on the compression stroke at TDC. I know the Exhuast vavles 10 and intake valves 2. thanks mike

Still pondering the project. Do the temp gauage sensor just unscrew out of the head?

I was wondering if head height will be an issue. Old head milled(shaved) New head just decked to clean up. Will this effect chain length. Gardon hose sounds like a pretty good idea(do you place between the tensioner and the chain. I was also thinking of using some bailing wire to hold the chain onto the cam gear along with the garden house. Thanks for all the tips so far. I just need to build up the courage to getrdone.

I ended up getting it from Rod datsuns. He just sold it for one door so it was a little cheaper. I put it in and it turned out real nice. The rear vertical part I had to stop just below the top of the door. Couldnt figure it out how to get the old out with the window still in the door.

I am wanting to put a different head on my L20B. I a have a u67 open chamber and Upgrading to A87 Closed chamber with a bigger cam and valve job. Do I need to do anything special with the new head. I want to do it with the engine still in the car. 1. Put engine on TDC. Compression stroke 2. Drain fullid. Anit freeze, oil? 3. Remove intake and exhuast maifold 4. Pull valve cover 5. Put block of wood to hold up timing chain 6. Loosen cam gear. 7. Loosen headbolts. 8. Remove Head 9. Install new head gasket and put new head on If you have any suggestions please let me know. I am trying to prepare myself for the surgery.

Did you ever sell the SSS head? Please let me know. thanks mike

Ok last got to fiddle with for short time. I picked up a vacuum gauage and plugged it in when I was warming it up, it cold here 30 degress. Vacuum gauage was going crazy but looks to be pulling around 17-22 hooked up to the 4th runner on the cannon intake. Next I plugged in to the vacuum can and idle kicked up and sounded like a sewing machine and smoothed in out. Took it out for a quick test ride and seemed to run smoother and no pinging at WOT. Except my daughter was with me and she freaked out when I tried to get on it. Yelled at me to slow down and I was only going like 35mph. I think I am going to pick up some air filter socks and put the air horns back on. I have air filters bolted on to plates without the air horns.

Hmm, I have only 4 intial advance at idle, if I set it to 10 or 12 it makes my total advance like 40 to much. I thought if I hooked up the vacum advance this would give the 10-12 advance at idle which is what i thought it needed to get lean idle. Then when I get on it and the vacum advance drops out and I get total advacne around 30. Or I can get the same result with recurving the distibutor with new weight and springs. Here is the atricle I been reading on vacum advance http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/distibutor-tuning-theory-part-1-a-59033.html

I forgot to ask how do you take the part out under the rotor? It looks like it has a roll pin holding it in place. First do I take out the vacum advacne, then rotor, then the stator, then the two outer screws?

* Check advance at IDLE (under 900 RPM) with vacuum advance disconnected. * Vacuum advance does nothing for full throttle (or even heavy throttle). It only affects part throttle. __________________ I have only about 4-5 degrees advance at idle, I am going to hookup the vacum advance and see what it does, I am also looking at the recurve kit for the distibutor.

Ok Datzen Mike, I think i am on to something. I've reading the hotrodders forum on Vacum advance, you may have referred to me in earlier post. Anyway, I do not have the vacum advance hooked up to the distibutor, Can I put it on the cannon intake maifold? It has spot that plugged only on one runner. Would it be better off Both runners to a T then to the vacum advance unit. How should I set up the vacum advance, Here are my current setting below. My setting right now is 4-5 degrees initial advance, really rich idle. Total mechincal advance 28-30 degrees. It jumps right into the total advace as soon as the rpms climb from about 2000 rpms. The car starts better with more advance but runs crappy with to much intial and total advace. I am still reading about the atrical on the vacum advance and timing but havent quite put it all together. Any suggestions.

This is kind of off subject from the timing but kind of related. I installed an o2 sensor trying to tune it and I found it running really rich at idle I even change idle jets and still idling rich. I think i have the progression stage of the carb coming causing it idle rich. Could this be casued from not enough intial advance on the timing?