Wolfman

The clicking noise is coming from the engine bay. I replaced the original ignition with one I had from a parts car. There was no clicking with the original, the sound started after I put in the other one. Still dead yellow and black wire. I guess I’ll order a new one and put it in. Could I just by pass by hooking up a push button to the starter?

I’m sorry I’m not sure I follow what you mean, the starter is getting 12v. The yellow/black wire doesn’t get any reading from my volt meter. When I turn the key with everything hooked up it just clicks, but will start if I arc the starter with a wrench or piece of wire

Took apart ignition, with the key on and turning other part with a screw driver I get clicking sounds. Swapper in another one ignition from parts car and same result.

Completely dead, no clicking. The black and yellow wire is very snug and solid fit.

1971 Datsun 510. Went to start my car, cranked once and quit. Battery is good 12.4v. Couldn’t find any loose wires or bad fuses. I can arc the starter with a wrench and it fires up just fine. Lights come on when I turn the key, just won’t engage the started. This has happened before but went away after a few key turns. Do I have a bad ignition switch?

took off and soaked the adjustment bracket/screw in wd 40 in a cup for over a day… absolutely would not budge. I ended up taking out the little pieces that press out when the screw is turned. The hub went back on and the breaks work great… how ever am damaging the bracket without those parts?

I’m not sure either, put it on just to test it out and I can’t get the drum back over the shoes. Adjustment screw at the top is pretty seized but I believe is all the way out anyways.

If I can’t find better ones or if the replacements are all like this… should I file it down a bit or just run it as is?

The driver side had greasy black residue everywhere, I had already taken it apart and cleaned it up or I would take pictures.

Yes that is what I meant, I looked at a bunch of pictures of different brands and they all seem to look the same. Even found a video of a guy doing a replacement and his look the same. Just seems weird there is literarily no lip fit the shoe to fit in. My car is a 4 door 510.

The play in the break pedal seems fine, I can push it with my thumb a small bit before it starts to stiffen up. I got new brake cylinders but I’m not sure if they are correct or not. The shiny part on the back of the cylinders sticks out and doesn’t allow the pad the sit in a slot. The old ones have the same piece but it is much farther in. Pics for reference

The rubber stopper thing or is there an adjustment somewhere else?

Just ordered new brake cylinders. I got this car over ten years ago and only drove it briefly before parking it. got it running again recently and only drove it around the block a few times before I started replacing parts (coil overs, control arms, tc rods etc.) figured I’d do the brakes while I was at it. So I’m not sure if the rear breaks ever worked properly. I did not bleed after I replaced the front, pumped the breaks a few times to build pressure back up while I was rolling out the drive way (yes I forgot to do this before putting it in gear) and then the rear driver side break locked up. Pounded off the drum and messed with it got the car to roll, jacked it up and put it in gear and found out neither wheel stopped when putting on the breaks. Tried bleeding and messing with the shoes a bit and the left locks up hard while the right doesn’t engage at all…. Long way to say that I’m not sure when the breaks went to shit.

1971 510. issue: rear brake on driver side is seized and rear passenger side does not engage. Beating the drum with a hammer frees it up but immediately locks up again after pedal is applied. I have taken it apart and cleaned it up. The side that seized looked like it was covered in black grease. I can engage the passenger side if I pull on the cable by hand underneath the car but not with the break pedal this happened after I replaced the front break pads, not sure if that helps. tried bleeding but nothing changes.

I want similar fitment to this car (orange). Any guesses on what the specs may be? (Screen shot from YouTube) this is my car on 14x7, pretty sure zero offset. I have pretty much everything t3 makes suspension wise ( control arms, tie rods, coils etc..) the front coils are from 510 struts.