SSSEXXX

Been working on the garage a lot, not going to lie. The space is done for now. If anyone wants to see it, let me know. I got an industrial work bench installed, more overhead storage, and a snazzy Datsun racing flag. Nope, although I think I know the guy who you are talking about lol. I'm farther south.

As would be par for the course of my life. With every window of prosperity, there is a dark ominous reward. Today I got a lovely letter from the IRS. I'm getting a (rectal) examination. I give so much to charity. Seriously, I am thinking about stopping. It just triggers things like this. So aggravating. But, I digress. More parts continue to roll in. My ARP wheel studs are here. Decided to go longer and with a 1.5mm versus the stock 1.25mm size. I found many more lug options in this size, but it isn't that big of a deal. I guess now you could say that I'm kind of studly?? I went ahead and got the double sealed industrial grade wheel bearings, wheel seals, and two OEM Nissan locknuts.. Also en route is my Wolf Creek CV half shaft axel kit and R200 stubs, OEM wheel dust covers and cotter pins. All I need now is an R200 mustache bar because Datsport has been impossible to get ahold of. I placed an order, but haven't heard anything Tracy is super swamped without Baz and her backlog is filling up every day. And I need some poly urethane rear crossmember bushings. Otherwise the rear end is supplied and ready to roll. I was going to start the breakdown of the rear end tonight, but after my letter from the IRS I wanted to cry so I didn't think I was in the right place to get to work. So aggravating. Have a great night folks. I'm headed to meet my friend Jameson at the rocks...

Going the industrial bearing route, but would like some guidance. Do we still pack the hub with grease since these are packed and sealed on their own? Simple question I'm sure, but I am trying to sort out the semantics now. Also, grease recommendations would be lovely too. I assume it is all the same, but I have been wrong more times than I care to admit.

Maybe I should have scaled that one back a little bit....

Another small update. Front Techno Toy Tuning coilovers with 225lb springs, camber plates and upper hats arrived today. I am not going to lie, I haven't been this physically aroused in a long time. Man these things are really sexy!!

$40

Off my car. 1968 Datsun 510. $40.

@paradime - Thank you man!! I'm growing tired of prep work and research, but it is a necessary evil I suppose. Not a huge update, but parts continue to roll in. Futo Fab adjustable rear cross member brackets are in. Great looking quality and extremely well packed. I only wish I knew how to adjust the damn things lol.

Got to work Friday night and didn't stop until just now. I had already finished the epoxy on the other side of the floor. I used a little less flake so I could find the nuts and bolts I'm sure ill drop working on the Miracle Whip reassembly. So here is where we started Friday night. An entire Datsun 510 in pieces on my floor and 6 gallons of paint in three colors. The walls, ceiling and a little repair work needed to be addressed. So I jumped right in to it.... Took everything off the shelves and started repairing holes. Then masked off everything that I would most likely accidentally get paint on. Prepping for painting completely sucks by the way. I have an entirely new respect for anyone who paints for a living... High gloss white on top, grey on bottom. That ceiling took FOREVER. And getting the paint even was ridiculous. I won't be doing that again ever... Then it was time to mask off for the blue stripe getting this thing level or reasonably close to it also took FOREVER. Either I'm mentally challenged, too anal retentive for my own good, or a good mixture of both... Then it was three coats of blue... And presto, change-o we have a magical garage. I couldn't clean the clutter up because the paint was still drying. I managed to mess a spot in the epoxy up when I removed what I thought was dry paint. Oops! Those boxes in front also have my industrial steel workbench in them too. Didn't get to that and my lower back is killing me. I started receiving parts in for the subframe build too.. Techno Toy Tuning adjustable rear coil overs with 200lb springs and RCAs .. And the rear control arm rubber bushings for the adjustable rear cross member mod en route from Dave at FutoFab... I may have gone a bit overboard in preparing for the Datsun to come home. But, I know I'll be in the garage a lot working on her.

Thank you sir! I like to think of it as a great guy, with a good deal, but we can just go with a good deal too.

They are brand new, in the box. Do we really need pics for this? I am in the Costa Mesa area. $200 plus shipping. Just Joel, they are now $210 for you or $200 plus spam.

Two, brand new and in the boxes. Went with a full Techno Toy Tuning system all the way around on my project build. I picked them up for a good price at $240 (not including shipping). I will let them go for a lovely $200 price. You pay shipping. First come, first serve. Low ball me and I'll spam you. Okay, okay, I won't spam you, but I'll be a little cranky about it. Chris

So, I have been busy traveling and researching, but have been acquiring parts for the rear subframe build for the last couple of weeks. I am also finished with the epoxy on the garage floor and haved moved on to painting the walls and ceiling of the garage with a high gloss white and a high gloss light grey with an electric blue accent color. My work bench has arrived and that will be put together once painting is complete. That should all be this weekend if I stay a good boy. At this rate, I am going to need a Datsun/Garage Work conjugal visit since that is literally where all my free time has been going. I will post pictures as parts start to roll in and images of the garage and my progress this weekend. I do have some questions to address that I cannot seem to find clear answers to. So, lets start with a detailed list of what has and is to be purchased. PURCHASED: Techno Toy Tuning Front Coilover Conversion for Datsun 510 with 280zx Casting (Although I started the 280zx strut conversion and bought Tokicos arleady, the cost wasn't that much greater to just buy the set and sell what I have.) Techno Toy Tuning Rear Coilover Conversion Techno Toy Tuning Roll Center Adjusters for Datsun 510 Techno Toy Tuning Camber Plates for Datsun 510 & Upper Hats 1986-87 300ZX R200 CLSD Rear Differential (3.700) Futo Fab (Byron via Dave) Rear Camber / Toe Adjusters (I went this route rather than Datsport because there seemed to be more access to people who know how to adjust this kit and it is pretty obvious that Dave was willing and able to help me when the time came to adjust it.) JC Whitney Rear Control Arm Bushings (4 total OEM Rubber because the Rear Camber Adjusters don't play nice with Polyurethane.) TO BE PURCHASED:ARP Knurl Wheel Studs (.509") 100-7708 12mm x 1.5 and 2.5" long (Thoughts / concerns are welcome here. I found many more lug options in the 1.5 versus the 1.25 oem variant. Are these too long for my NOS Watanable RS-Eights 15 x 6.5 with +21 offset?) Wolf Creek CV Half Shaft Axel Kit Datsport R200 Mustache Bar Rear Crossmember bushings Industrial Application Double sealed bearings (4) and two seals and an OEM Nissan locknut. (some High Heat grease too) Still trying to find photos to go with the FSM for this. TO GET DONE (AND TAKE PHOTOS OF):Rear subframe breakdown. Rear cross member opened for 3" exhaust, welded brackets and bushings installed. Powder coat rear control arms and cross member in a high gloss black. Powder coat R200 cover in red to match valve cover. Paint casing of R200 in high gloss black high heat engine enamel. Wheel hub breakdown and restoration. ( I REALLY want these to look fresh and clean. Do I just sand blast and powder coat them once the lugs and bearings are out? I'm not finding much guidance here.) Install lugs, bearings. Install Wilwood rear slotted disk brakes and 2 pot calipers. Install R200. Install coilovers Sit back and take in the glory that is one super sexy rear subframe for a car that isn't here yet. Make "vrooooooooooom" sounds in the garage while imaging the drive to keep motivated. Do NOT look at your wallet, it will most likely still be bleeding. Do NOT get or ever tell a future girlfriend about the time or effort that went in to this. Then get ready to do it all over again for the front sub frame.

Just checked on my iPhone. They don't even list Datsun 510 Rear Suspension, just the front??? Am I missing something?

Need all four to go with my FutoFab rear crossmember modification. Nissan said they were no longer avaiable. Can't go with Poly, so a little help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

@SR20DETdatsun510 - I know exactly what you mean. So was I. I had given up and was looking for something else from the 04-07 Subaru realm. When I saw this, i couldn't believe how good the condition of the cover was. I think I am going to powder coat the cover red to match my valve cover. Then paint the differential housing a high heat black to match the rest of the suspension and rear sub frame. I need to know more about how to take one apart though.

Look what I was fortunate enough to find. A 1986 300ZX R200 LSD with a 3.70 gear ratio and the lovely finned cover. I was going to go R180, but I couldn't find a good clutch type LSD for a decent price. Subaru rears from 2004-2007 fit the bill, but then you are looking at an additional money for the stubs and CV conversions. I saved some money going this route and got a unit that can handle horsepower far beyond my projected 300 rwhp max dream if I ever go T3. As doubtful as that ever is. I like the idea of a GT2860 or a 2871RS. But, I digress. Anyone have any good tutorials on disassembly and restoration of this unit? I want to take it apart, clean her up and powder coat the casing a nice black while I powder coat the finned cover.

Did it sell?

Looking for an R180 or R200 CLSD Topic says it all. Needs to be a Clutch Type LSD. Preferably 25 spindle and R180, but can work with an R200. Everything on eBay is Viscous because they are generally newer. My understanding is that viscous needs to lose traction before working where as the clutch type does not past a certain degree of pressure. Thanks!!

Oops! My bad! I was on my phone.

Topic says it all. Needs to be a Clutch Type LSD. Preferably 25 spindle and R180, but can work with an R200. Everything on eBay is Viscous because they are generally newer. My understanding is that viscous needs to lose traction before working where as the clutch type does not past a certain degree of pressure. Thanks!!

@paradime - No way, you didn't come off that way at all! But, let me get this out of the way. Your car looks soooooo awesome. That is some motivation right there. I love, LOVE the color and the body work, she looks as straight and as fresh as possible. I have a ton of questions for you sir!! 1 - You shaved the fuel door key. How difficult was the install and wiring of the popper? I assume you went the Maxima DIY route? 2 - Unless my eyes are deceived, carbon fiber rear bumper??? HELLO Details!!! 3 - How do you feel about the fuel cell in a weekend driver, not meant for autoX? I have been tossing around the idea of one, but I want to find a solution that can be tweaked to fit in the OEM location. It just seems more safe to me. I would love to hear your thoughts though. 4 - I see you went witht he rubber seals without the chrome trim. I have been considering this too. I was hoping that it would look "cleaner." Yours looks quite good without it. I cant tell if it is because the rest of the car has blacked out chrome or because it is just a much more simple feel. I have heard a lot of people have similar bad experiences with engine installers and tuners. I am very much afraid of falling victim to the same thing and had just assumed that I would have to do it on my own. How did you eventually work through the problem? DIfferent shop?

@Butch_6sic6 - Nope, I haven't decided those things yet. My paint guy gave me a good tip on the cooling suggestions and already has a template for it, so I may very well go that route for the sake of being great adivce and simplicity. As far as the intake goes, most likely off a tube and a litle farther to cooler, fresh air, but I need to do more research. @paradime - I greatly appreciate all the kind words and the motivation. It has been hard to remain calm and be focused, but I do believe in being a gentleman and letting karma do what is necessary. I did dispute the charge with American Express for the deposit from the shop and I did receive it back. Also, the shop owner did not appear in court and I was awarded a default judgment for what I believe the cost of the damages will be in total. Collecting is a near impossibility, but it is now a matter of public record how he treats people and the poor quality of character that he has exhibited over and over. Also, I am saddened to hear your story as no one deserves to be treated that way. However, I will say that Dennis is very much on point although a little ambiguous with his commentary. He is an amazing resource and has quite a wealth of knoweldge too. Building a good quality SR20DET does take a bit more than you thought, but then again everyone has different expectations and I know that Dennis and I aim high and have very distinct attention to detail. Borderline OCD I woudl say. Thank you so, so much for the input, I am sure I may have some questions for you after I do some reading this weekend and figure out the costs of everything. There is no cheap way about it really, but I think you are right about going the Troy route. I also like that he is relatively local and is only a phone call away if I have issues. @Dennis - Hey buddy!! I saw your car on eBay and let me say that it made me quite sad. I very much look up to you, the level of work you have done, and the amount of guidance you have given me. I completely understand why your deteriorating health is an issue and I can understand why you need to sell the car. I wish I could help, but more importantly I hope that this community does not lose you. Your input has been invaluable to me and it would be a sad loss if you were not here to chime in when research fails me and some of the eager young others like me out there. I do agree with you, the cost of a build like you and I do would not be around that price, but some are happy with a running SR20DET that they can slowly modify over time on their own. If there is one lesson I have learned. There are so few people you can trust to do as good of a job as you can do yourself, no matter your experience level. My paint and body guy is the best and I trust him implicitly now that Project Miracle Whip is with him. Other than that the Datsun family is truly a tight knit group of people that can help you help yourself, but you have to be willing to listen and learn. Mistakes happen, just learn from each one. If my thread can do that for anyone, then it was worth it.

jrock4224 - Thanks man!! Still got half to go though! DottiBlue - Way ahead of you! Eight T8 bulbs are in and bright. Although I'm considering adding more that are not wired in to the switch that I can turn in for when I need it. Next up is finish the other half of the floor, paint the walls a super glossy light grey (almost white) and then figure out a work bench on the cheap. Thinking split L shaped table in the right corner recess. Half metal and half ikea butcher block.

@Butch_6sic6 - Thank you! If I can ever help, let me know. @sal - Thank you! I will keep her moving, don't you worry... Hi everyone! I didn't want anyone to think I was getting too sidetracked. I've been enjoying my rear subframe research and learning about what parts I really do need and more importantly, why. I think a lot of people build things they don't entirely understand, but know that is what most people do. I try to really know why. For example, it seems pretty obvious that you can't really go wrong with a lighter r180 rear differential versus an r200 which does seem to be more and more like overkill. Even for a well balanced, tracked 510. The real complication is understanding and finding the right r180 to transplant. Do you go newer Subaru LSD or older Nissan with a NISMO LSD swapped in? I originally thought, "well I have to take whatever differential I get apart anyway right?" Then there is the whole ratio conversation. I have seemed to settle in to accept a 3.90 versus a 4.11. But I want to really know which is better for my build and my needs. In the mean time, I have been active deciding how in depth I want to go on the details. I am pretty anal retentive. So I went and sprung for a vibratory tumbler. For obvious reasons, I want to do as much as I can on my own. So I will clean each and every bolt before I send them off for cadmium plating. The idea of having a giant bucket of bolts has me a little scared, but i think I've accepted it. I'm just happy to be nearing the end of the dirty, rusty phase. So to celebrate, I began to clean up the garage. Moved everything to one side, etched and cleaned the concrete and then Rhino coated one half the floor. After a week, I'll switch sides and do it again. I also have 4 1000lb capacity dollies en route to help me roll around the front and rear sub frames.