B210 Carburetor problems

[colinski6]

Hey all, This is my first time posting but I have been lurking for some time.

 

I've got a 77 B210 4 speed I bought last fall and drove happily for a few months, but it began to develop some carb problems, and eventually became undriveable.

 

The fuel bowl will not stay full and the engine starves under load. I checked out the fuel pump, and it is in perfect health, the diaphragm is healthy and the one way valves are sealing perfectly.

 

I also tried a Holley Red electric pump that I tried to lower the pressure on as much as I could, but it still overwhelmed the float and flooded the bowl, but the car would run as long as I switched it on and off to keep the fuel level about right.

 

Anyway I am looking for the easiest way to get the car drive-able again. I realize that you tend to get what you pay for, but I also don't want to spend more than I need to.

 

Thanks in advance

[datzenmike]

Take the electric fuel pump off and run the one that came on the engine.

 

At the same time replace the $3 fuel filter and this should fix the problem.

[dat521gatherer]

I would just put a used weber  for $100 on it if you want to go cheap. You'll need the adapter kit also.

 

Do you have the original carb? Too many things to go wrong and hard to track down problems with so much crap on the engine with those. Just trying to get the original carb off is a nightmare.

 

We need to see picks of your car.

[datzenmike]

Used Weber = worn out, rebuilt 5 times since '76 and parts missing, jetted incorrectly, someone else's POS problem.

Adapter = adds to the cost and are leak prone.

Stock air filter does not fit.

 

 

Cheaper to fix the problem.

 

Carb starves for fuel under load but pump looks good = fuel filter dirty or plugged. Car uses fuel faster that it can get through the filter and carb runs dry.  Cost? $4

[colinski6]

I forgot to mention I replaced the fuel filter already, and it didn't make any improvement.

 

I kind of don't want to go through the process of rejetting; I just want to drive the dang thing. Is a new kit from Redline Weber a good way to go? I don't really want to spend $300 but you get what you pay for in my experience.

 

Also I haven't figured out how to upload pics

[colinski6]

Also my only prior carb experience is on a 1982 yamaha 4 cylinder motorcycle with 4 carbs; and those are very easy to understand how they work and what is going on. I just took the hitachi off my car and I haven't the slightest clue as to what is going on.

[datzenmike]

That electric pump will over power the weber also. Probably from an EFI engine and 10 X too high a pressure. So...

 

 

Put the old pump back on.

 

There should be a brass screen on the carb inlet... see if it's dirty/blocked.

 

Take the fuel line hose off the carb and direct into a suitable pail. Crank engine over with starter with coil wire off. You should see strong surges of fuel if the pump is working properly.

 

Check the float setting. Fuel level should be at the line on the float chamber glass.

[colinski6]

Ok I will take off the electric pump, It was from a carbureted chevy small block and it put out 7psi but I read the mechanical pump only puts out like 3psi.

 

I have cranked the car with the carb disconnected and watched fuel gush and spurt all over my engine bay. I was not smart about the bucket part.

 

Is the screen right behind the L shaped adapter where fuel comes in to the bowl? It seems to require a lot of force in order to unscrew.

 

Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.

[datzenmike]

There should be a brass screen right at the fuel inlet fitting.

 

The B-210 carb probably has a round glass bull's eye for a sight glass. You may have to take the top off the carb to get at the needle valve and the float to check it.

[colinski6]

Alright so I got the top off and took out the float needle and seat, and boom there was a little nugget of rubber or something in the inlet above the needle.

 

I did not find a screen, but all the screws were easy to loosen, It's like someone has been there before and removed it maybe.

 

I will let you know once I get it all together if the car runs.

 

I feel good about this though.

 

Thanks again.

[dat521gatherer]

A worn out weber is still better than the factory worn out nightmare.

[datzenmike]

You're trading sideways. If getting a weber get a new one. A new weber is better that an old worn out factory nightmare.... yes!

[dat521gatherer]

This is your problem. Take this part off.

 

Go from this.

 

To this. Now when trouble shooting you only have one vacuum line and one hot (switched) wire to the electric choke.

 

I have bought a handful of used webers and only one had shaft problems. They are much easier to rebuild or have rebuilt.

[colinski6]

Well I got the carb back on and sure enough that little chunk of rubber was the cause of the starvation issue.

 

Thanks again for your help!

[colinski6]

Got the carb back on the car, turned up the idle, and now it drives alright! Hooray!