Did I get the wrong weber for me 510?

[KlassicMotion]

Remove the brass jet, separate the jet tip from the part that threads into the carb body, put the jet tip onto the idle cut-off switch, screw idle cut-off switch into carb body. Run a keyed hot wire to the switch.  There should be a keyed hot wire somewhere close on the fire wall.

 

Just in case:

"Keyed" =  when you turn the key "on", it gets power.  When you turn the ignition "off", it looses power.

 

[Datsunrider71]

Okay thanks bro for all your help I will order that.

 

Any thing else I should know or I'm good.

[KlassicMotion]

It looks like you have a port in the air cleaner for the valve cover vent... Do you have a second one for the fuel vapor tube that runs to the fuel vapor valve on the driver's strut tower?

 

This is how I ran mine:

 

 

 

Other than that, I think you'll be good.....  Keep us updated!

[Datsunrider71]

It looks like you have a port in the air cleaner for the valve cover vent... Do you have a second one for the fuel vapor tube that runs to the fuel vapor valve on the driver's strut tower?

 

This is how I ran mine:

 

 

 

Other than that, I think you'll be good..... Keep us updated!

Let me go out side brb

[Datsunrider71]

 

[KlassicMotion]

That top hose needs to go to the air cleaner for "fresh air".

 

The white vent tube in the air cleaner needs to run to your valve cover.

 

If you want, you can drill this port and thread it for a hose barb to run the fuel vapor hose to, but it's easier to drill the air cleaner and put a hose barb there.

 

[Datsunrider71]

I don't get you lol

[Datsunrider71]

That top hose needs to go to the air cleaner for "fresh air".

 

The white vent tube in the air cleaner needs to run to your valve cover.

 

If you want, you can drill this port and thread it for a hose barb to run the fuel vapor hose to, but it's easier to drill the air cleaner and put a hose barb there.

 

Top hose goes where

[KlassicMotion]

It goes there on mine;

 

 

 

 

The other pic is showing you an alternative method, if you want to drill and tap this port:

 

[Datsunrider71]

Hold on I need to show you something

[Datsunrider71]

Do you see the lil arrow what is that thing for I no it's for a hose

 

[KlassicMotion]

Which pic?

[Datsunrider71]

That one

[KlassicMotion]

It's for the vacuum advance to the distributor.

[Datsunrider71]

And Where does that line going to the Distributor I don't see only holes the only thing I saw was a Metal line coming from the carb to the dizzy

[KlassicMotion]

And Where does that line going to the Distributor I don't see only holes the only thing I saw was a Metal line coming from the carb to the dizzy

 

Yeah, it's the metal line.  I'd suggest cleanly cutting the metal line about 1.5" from the distributor and hooking a hose from that to the Weber.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You will also need to either extend the linkgage rod by cutting it and splicing in a section then welding it back up, or space the bracket at the firewall out about 3/4". If you don't do either one of these, the carb linkage may pop out of the bracket at the firewall.

 

Also, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator if you're running a stock mechanical fuel pump. I actually wouldn't run one unless it's the Holley type.

 

Another thing to consider is having your distributor recurved. Once that is done, you won't need to run the vacuum advance.

[KlassicMotion]

     "You will also need to either extend the linkgage rod by cutting it and splicing in a section then welding it back up, or space the bracket at the firewall out about 3/4". If you don't do either    one of these, the carb linkage may pop out of the bracket at the firewall."

 

 

I have a suspicion you will be fine with the linkage you have... That said I have seen at least 3 variation on the stock linkage from the factory...

 

 

      " Also, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator if you're running a stock mechanical fuel pump. I actually wouldn't run one unless it's the Holley type."

 

 

As I said, there is a great debate on here about fuel pressure regulators with these carbs... 

[Datsunrider71]

You will also need to either extend the linkgage rod by cutting it and splicing in a section then welding it back up, or space the bracket at the firewall out about 3/4". If you don't do either one of these, the carb linkage may pop out of the bracket at the firewall.

 

Also, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator if you're running a stock mechanical fuel pump. I actually wouldn't run one unless it's the Holley type.

 

Another thing to consider is having your distributor recurved. Once that is done, you won't need to run the vacuum advance.

What do you mean Recurved

[Datsunrider71]

"You will also need to either extend the linkgage rod by cutting it and splicing in a section then welding it back up, or space the bracket at the firewall out about 3/4". If you don't do either one of these, the carb linkage may pop out of the bracket at the firewall."

 

 

I have a suspicion you will be fine with the linkage you have... That said I have seen at least 3 variation on the stock linkage from the factory...

 

 

" Also, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator if you're running a stock mechanical fuel pump. I actually wouldn't run one unless it's the Holley type."

 

 

As I said, there is a great debate on here about fuel pressure regulators with these carbs...

I'm still going to do it bro I got you

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

     "You will also need to either extend the linkgage rod by cutting it and splicing in a section then welding it back up, or space the bracket at the firewall out about 3/4". If you don't do either    one of these, the carb linkage may pop out of the bracket at the firewall."

 

 

I have a suspicion you will be fine with the linkage you have... That said I have seen at least 3 variation on the stock linkage from the factory...

 

 

      " Also, you don't need a fuel pressure regulator if you're running a stock mechanical fuel pump. I actually wouldn't run one unless it's the Holley type."

 

 

As I said, there is a great debate on here about fuel pressure regulators with these carbs... 

Years of experience without the regulator has proven that you don't NEED to run one. Every street driven 510 I've ever owned plus the ITC racers we used to run (25 on the track at any given race) has run a DGV with the stock mechanical pump and no regulator and never once has the needle and seat stuck open because of too much pressure.

 

Also, the same experience has taught me to modify the linkage. I have had them pop out many times. When you're leading a race and it happens to you you will kind of never forget.

[Datsunrider71]

Years of experience without the regulator has proven that you don't NEED to run one. Every street driven 510 I've ever owned plus the ITC racers we used to run (25 on the track at any given race) has run a DGV with the stock mechanical pump and no regulator and never once has the needle and seat stuck open because of too much pressure.

 

Also, the same experience has taught me to modify the linkage. I have had them pop out many times. When you're leading a race and it happens to you you will kind of never forget.

Damn I would of been pissed I Imagine how you felt

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

What do you mean Recurved

Recurving a distributor is when you adjust the "when" and "how much" of the mechanical advance inside the distributor.

 

If performance is what you're after, a timing curve that does not rely on vacuum advance allows you to safely run more timing and thus gain more horsepower. If economy is your game, then you could still benefit from adjusting the mechanical curve, but leave the vacuum hose hooked up and operational.

 

To recurve a distributor you usually swap in a SSS distributor cam (available from Nissan Motorsports) and adjust the spring tension by removing one spring or replacing them with aftermarket springs, or simply by bending the tab that the spring is attached to. It takes experience to know what to do and look for so I wouldn't try to do this yourself. At least not the first time around.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Damn I would of been pissed I Imagine how you felt

Pissed. I think I kicked the fender and left a dent.

[Datsunrider71]

Pissed. I think I kicked the fender and left a dent.

Oh crap that's crazy man. but I'm not going to be racing this thing I have a wagon.

 

I think what happened to you was all the Down shifts and all the bumps on the race Track knocked the linkage loose