KA24E ecu code 13, need ideas other than coolant temp sensor

[Bush]

I have a 89 240 sx  KA24E swapped into my 720.  Its been in there for a couple years now, and has essentially been problem free.  2 weeks ago, I was pressure washing my engine bay for a show, not holding the wand close, but holding it back a ways and not focusing on areas of vacuum lines or electronics.  I then drove the truck for a couple hours running errands and it ran like a champ, as it always did,

 

That evening, I stopped at a gas station to top it off and it was idling at 2200rpms.  Its consistently idled this high and has  run rich ever since.  Every now and then it drops back to normal idle, but there isn't any rhyme or reason to that behavior,  Its throwing codes 13, 14, and 41.  it has thrown 14 and 41 since the swap, and likely will continue to do so being those sensors are in a garbage can.  I've replaced the coolant temp sensor, and tested it not only at the sensor, but at pins 18 and 21 on the ecu, and it reads correctly.  I had my brother jiggle the harness to see if the resistance changed due to a bad wire, but it held true.

 

Any ideas on what to poke at next?  Im heading up to Tumwater Sunday for a show and I'l really like to have it back in tip top shape. 

 

Thanks for any help

[jesusno2]

IACV going haywire bypassing air past the TB  makes em idle high or low. CTS code your supposed to reset the ECU after you have changed it other wise it takes forever for it to go away.

[Bush]

I forgot to add that I reset the ecu going to code IV while in code III and I unplugged the battery over night

[620Turbo4X4]

Have you checked for moisture in your distributer cap after the pressure washing?

 

Just a little can cause crossfire and make your engine run terrible.

 

If you see any moisture heat the distributer with a hair dryer and leave the cap off overnight.

[Bush]

I will check for that later after work, but it runs just fine.  It just idles at 2200rpm and runs rich.

[Bush]

My distributor is clean and dry.  My IACV is miserable to get to, its right up against the firewall. Its not touching the firewall, i put a fiirewall plug off a dodge truck in to allow room  for the valve to  be "recessesed" into the firewall, but it makes it a big ball of suck to get to. The only article I found on the IACV was regarding a KA24DE, and Id hate to tear mine out only to find that the info didnt pertain to mine.  Anyone have any tips 

[jesusno2]

Check for air leaks, CTS can cause a rich/lean condition you check the resistance values? as for high idle goes, its a air leak somewhere or the 

IACV is going haywire or the AUX air regulator is stuck open and not closing. thats all the only thing that controls idle speed. 

[Bush]

ya, the CTS values were checked both at the sensor and at the ecu pins

[Bush]

Welp, I fiddled with the connections on the IAC and AAR and the idle dropped.  so that was it.  thanks for pointing me where to poke at.  
 

[Bush]

Update, now before the engine gets warm, the idle hovers around about 300 rpm.  it has a strong hesitation until it wheezes up to around 900 rpm, then all is good in the world.  once warm it idles great and runs great.  what have i f'd up now lol

 

any help greatly appreciated

[jesusno2]

your IACV or AAC isnt working correct it should start cold with a high Idle and slowly come down to a smooth steady 800 ish rpm. your on the right track but it may need cleaned or replaced check the connectors also for corrosion.