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My VG30 510, to fix or to sell


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The VG30 IS INDEED an interference engine. All of them are, always have been. The VG33 is NOT an interference engine. That's why the engine I started with had 9 of the 12 valves bent. Make sure the timing is correct, make sure the belt get's changed, and make sure the belt never slips.

 

Don't give up on it, the VG30 is one of the most reliable engines EVER made. They run forever, even with no maintenence.

 

The VG30 efi is a very simple system to set up, and *extremely* reliable once it's running. It also allows you to take off a bunch of stuff, and it continues to run. This is why so many 280zx guys convert their cars to the Z31 efi system. I have no idea why people convert these to carbs, the efi works SOOOO well.

 

The engine isn't cursed, something has been done incorrectly to make these problems happen. Fix it properly and it will be just fine.

 

I've been running that bent valve, junkyard heads, cobbled together, EFI'd, VG30 in my 510 for about 12 years now. It has 250k on it, and it runs fine. I have also converted my personal 280ZX turbo to use the Z31 efi, and the conversion was easy. Even converting my 510 to EFI was easy. People assume it's a LOT harder than it actually is.

 

 

I mean, think about it.....you're SOOOOO close to having this done and running right. Now you want to throw it all away by selling it, and start with a completely different setup? Which could potentially have all the same issues, plus the hassle of all the new mounts, and figureing out a new engine? Seems like 12 steps backwards when you're already so close. The SR20 is nice, my friend has one, but it's also exponentially more complicated than the VG30. From your posts it sounds like you need/want simplicity, which is why you went with the carb setup. An SR20DET is about as far from simple as you're gonna get. Well, except for the VG30DETT, that's just stupidly complex.

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Agreed. I have a cracked SR510 bottom mount that could be rewelded.

 

OP if you need any assistance with your new setup I have a couple good contacts in Santa Rosa for fabbing and SR20 stuff. lmk...

 

thanks I think I am good for now...

 

The VG30 IS INDEED an interference engine. All of them are, always have been. The VG33 is NOT an interference engine. That's why the engine I started with had 9 of the 12 valves bent. Make sure the timing is correct, make sure the belt get's changed, and make sure the belt never slips.

 

Don't give up on it, the VG30 is one of the most reliable engines EVER made. They run forever, even with no maintenence.

 

The VG30 efi is a very simple system to set up, and *extremely* reliable once it's running. It also allows you to take off a bunch of stuff, and it continues to run. This is why so many 280zx guys convert their cars to the Z31 efi system. I have no idea why people convert these to carbs, the efi works SOOOO well.

 

The engine isn't cursed, something has been done incorrectly to make these problems happen. Fix it properly and it will be just fine.

 

I've been running that bent valve, junkyard heads, cobbled together, EFI'd, VG30 in my 510 for about 12 years now. It has 250k on it, and it runs fine. I have also converted my personal 280ZX turbo to use the Z31 efi, and the conversion was easy. Even converting my 510 to EFI was easy. People assume it's a LOT harder than it actually is.

 

 

I mean, think about it.....you're SOOOOO close to having this done and running right. Now you want to throw it all away by selling it, and start with a completely different setup? Which could potentially have all the same issues, plus the hassle of all the new mounts, and figureing out a new engine? Seems like 12 steps backwards when you're already so close. The SR20 is nice, my friend has one, but it's also exponentially more complicated than the VG30. From your posts it sounds like you need/want simplicity, which is why you went with the carb setup. An SR20DET is about as far from simple as you're gonna get. Well, except for the VG30DETT, that's just stupidly complex.

 

i dont have any efi components so I would have to try and get all the parts from pick and pull, plus new pistons, get the heads repaired. I havent taken off the head to confirm yet but i think the piston was put in the wrong way so there was no valve relief, or somehow its the wrong piston all together.

 

Non the less, SR motor is ordered, parts are for sale,

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Taking a 98% done car and completely reengineering it? HUH!?

 

I were to repair it I would have to buy new pistons, rings, pay to get the heads done, re assemble it.. I have taken that motor apart a lot and I really just dont want to mess with it anymore... after all that the prices plus my time to do all that.. I will just go with a lighter SR

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Find a set of heads at the junk yard for dirt cheap, or maybe even free from someone on here, put some new valve stem seals on, and put the engine back together. That's what I did 10 years ago, and it still runs fine.

 

EFI components are super cheap at the JY, or find someone parting a car out, or even get the stuff from nearly free from someone here.

 

The REALLY nice thing about the VG's is that everything is super plentiful, super cheap, and super easy to find. Your SR will be hard to find parts for (comparitively), expensive (comparitively), and not easy to find parts for (comparitively). Try finding a water pump at Autozone. Just sayin'

 

If you were closer, I'd take that VG from ya, throw it in my GF's car, and have it running over the weekend.

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and plan on spending double your expected cost....my KA swap cost around that after everything and the motor itself was $400 not $2k

 

and the wiring is pretty easy compared to what it looks like. it's complicated at first but just look at the diagrams in the can/am thread and mimic. and make sure all connections are tight and all grounds are good. any nut/post connections should have lock washers...learned that one the hard way

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